Need Help with Cloudy (pop) Eyes

[jcarson999]

Help! We moved a couple months ago, and after the move our Picasso trigger started developing cloudy eyes. I thought it was from stress, and since he's a very healthy specimen I thought he'd get over it. He continued to have a healthy appetite, but his eyes didn't clear up. When I checked the parameters, I found the Ammonia was a little high. Took care of that, and parameters are all good right now (I've checked them myself, and also had three different LFS check).

Anyway, the eyes didn't clear up, and they gradually started to look a little extended. Based on an LFS recommendation, I treated with Maracyn, which had no effect. Next, on another LFS recommendation, I treated with Formalin dip. After the first dip, it seemed like there was improvement, but subsequent dippings didn't have any effect.

Had another LFS say it was flukes. Did a couple fresh water dips (4 minutes each), but didn't see any flukes come off, and his condition hasn't improved.

Bottom line is he's still got the problem. He can see, but it looks like his perception is off. He's still pretty fat, but I think he's mostly eating food from the bottom.

Can anyone help with a solution? I don't have a hospital or treatment tank, so anything I do has to be in the display.

Here's a link to a pic of the problem: http://s157.photobucket.com/albums/t50/jcarson999/?action=view&current=DSC_0586.jpg

Thx,
-jim

 

[gweston]

Which Maracyn did you try? I find Maracyn Two highly effective. For a double whammy, you can combine Maracyn One (gram positive) and Maracyn Two (gram negative) at the same time.

There are also a few other Maracyn products. I have only used the two mentioned. They are expensive though...

Sounds like both eyes are cloudy from your description, so it is probably something systemic with the fish. If one eye is cloudy or popped, then it is more likely due to an injury.

Maracyn claims to be 'display tank safe'. But I wouldn't agree. They are antibiotics and will likely affect your system's biological filtration (good bacteria populations). If at all possible, go for the QT option.

-stick a filter sponge in your display for 2-3 days. I try to keep some material in my sump at all times to toss into a quarantine or for some other purpose on short notice.
-a small tank with a powerfilter (aquaclear) will do just fine.
-I siphon water from the display directly into the quarantine, toss the sponge in, and good to go. The fish can then be moved over with no acclimation and less stress. This assumes your display parameters are good (no ammonia, low nitrates, etc).
-Spot feed the treated fish to limit food/waste in the QT. Feed it well with vitamins/garlic added, but do not overfeed.

I find doing that can help the QT go without a water change for ~5 days or so for a full Maracyn treatment. I toss on a Seachem ammonia badge into the QT. Super useful to keep tabs in case an ammonia spike kicks. Emergency backup is Amquel+ to neutralize ammonia. Key is to follow the dosage/schedule on the mark. Underdosing is bad. A full treatment is required even if the fish recovers earlier.

 

[jcarson999]

We used Maracyn 2 - the LFS said it was the proper Maracyn product to use.

Any other suggestions? Somewhere I heard of someone treating the eyes directly with some drops - but I don't know what product they used. Another guy said he'd had luck dipping in Epsom salts - but didn't provide any detail on how to go about that.

Appreciate any other suggestions - he's a great fish and I have a sense that this is going to end badly.

Thx,
-jim