Need some direction with medication

[Fredy]

I have a 210g FOWLR

stock;
Emperor Angle
Blue Face Angle
Yellow Tang
Niger Trigger
Hippo Tang
Stars & Stripes Puffer
Blue Spot Toby
Yellow Head sleeper Goby
Snow Flake Eel
5 Damsels
Choc Chip Star
Rainbow Urchin
CoralBanded Shrimp
5 Cleaner Shrimp
Hermits
Snails

My Tang had some Black Ich (flukes) and white ich and my STars & Stripes keeps getting ich. I have treated my tank with PraziPro fron www.hikariusa.com and had good success. The only down fall is that I have to shut down my UV and Skimmer while I treat the tank with PraziPro :mad2: Did this for 2 weeks!
Upon inspection of my Tang, I now notice that his upper lip is getting swollen and my Trigger is getting a couple of white spots in his fins as well.

My quarentine tank is only 20 gal, what can any one recommend??

If I use Mardel's Coppersafe will cause any ill affects?

Should I remove my Shrimp, star, and urchin? Then treat the tank.

TIA,
Fredy

 

[Angela Short]

Most people don't like to hypo a display but what about removing the inverts and LR and do hypo? The rock would have to stay in a rubbermaid with PH and heater for a minimum of 4-6 weeks also so not to re-infect the tank. The reason for not hypoing a display is the sand bed will have significant die-off of worms and pods and can cause a ammonia spike. I wouldn't do copper in the main as everyting will absorb it and almost be impossiable to keep at theraputic levels to help the fish. Not to mention the rock would be ruined for any future inverts. I think this is about your only option with so many fish infected. And yes even the ones not showing signs can have it. I dunno anything about puffers and hypo though, check on that one....

 

[TerryB]

With this many questions people donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t usually follow the advice given, but here goes. Black ich is best treated with a series of formalin dips. I canââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t see the medication that you have been using being effective against ich so I am not surprised that you keep having to treat for it. Hyposalinity is the best treatment for ich. It requires an accurate refractometer and testing the pH daily.
The lip getting swollen is probably a bacterial infection. This is not surprising as parasite infections often lead to bacterial infections. Please describe the white spots in detail. You could use a large Rubbermaid container as a quarantine tank. You cannot use hyposalinity with inverts or live rock. You should move ALL the fish to quarantine and treat with hyposalinity. I would not use copper. IMO Coppersafe is about the worst choice in copper medications anyway. Do NOT treat the shrimp, starfish or urchin.

Terry B

 

[Angela Short]

Opps, I was just addressing ick, I forgot the black ick and I agree with Terry on the bacterial infection of the lip. These 2 things need to be addressed as Terry suggests. What kind of substraight do you have in the display? What kind of filters are you running? I ask wondering if you have any thing for a bio in a QT.

 

[Fredy]

Angella & Terry,
Ok, if I am able to put the fish in a rubbermaid will I have to tear down my 210 and put the LR in a seperate rubbermaid as well? Or will it be OK to let the display remain untuched for 4-6 weeks, thus killing off any ich and what not?



Filtration;
40L refuge (LR,Chalurpa, Chato)
Skimmer
36W UV light
2 bags of carbon

My substrate is crushed coral.

Fredy

 

[TerryB]

Leave all the inverts and live rock in the reef tank. Do not add any fish back into the display for 6 to 8 weeks.

Terry B

 

[Fredy]

Terry,

Thanks for getting back to me. Ok, I will pulling all the fish out and putting into 55 gal barrels (white food grade)
As far as the Hypo goes, where should I be with SG?
Should I use the tank water to fill the barrels or new water? Should I add RODI slowly to barrels to bring salinity down while the fish are in there?

Thanks again,
Fredy

 

[Angela Short]

I would fill the tubs with tank water as it will have some bacteria in it. But with so many fish you are gonna be doing some major water changes to keep up with the params since you don't have any bio filter ready (sponges). You will have to keep the makeshift tank from going in a cycle. I would grab a few handfulls of CC and drop in a mesh baggy for some bacteria. Just try and not scoop up any pods and worms, kinda shake it out in tank water good first. You will have to feed lightly as you don't want a lot of uneaten food decaying and vacume poop and left overs daily. Get some pvc tubeing and chop it up for hiding places for the fish. This is easy to pull out while you vacume the tubs and will ease stress just get Big enouph for fish to get in. #1 thing to keep an eye on is PH will drop fast while you lower SG so buffer accordingly. It takes amazingly a lot of plain water to get the SG down so keep the ro going full blast . You can drop them into Hypo pretty quick also, some say over 2 days but Terry thinks its safer to drop faster, whichever you prefer. Just pull out x gallons of tank water (tub) and replace with buffered fresh and you will get there. Glad you are gonna take it all the way and do it right! Just feed inverts and keep maint. up on main tank and with no fish to host the parasite will die off. Farm supply stores sell huge tubs (100 gall +) lots of people use for fuges which may be easier than trying to keep up with 2 50 gallon tubs, testing params, making sure SG is right, vacumming and all. Just a thought...

 

[Angela Short]

Thats 14 fish in a 100 gallon tub if you can get one. As long as they are not huge you should be able to keep ammonia down with daily water changes. Also add a air stone for extra oxgen and some good PH's for circulation. I would go ahead and get a cheap sponge filter (which also adds air bubbles for oxgen) to run in it and have for future QTing. I would run it in the sump a few days while you get all your parts gathered up this weekend and catch all those fish. It may seed a FEW bacteria, any helps. You can also do the quick drain methode to catch fish seein as you are gonna be pullin about 80-90 gallons out anyways for your tub, tubs. Pull out the water first (80-90 gall.) either way and it will be easier to catch them.

 

[Fredy]

Angela,
Thanks for the extra pointers I figured since i will be using the tank water to fill my drums, I would use that opportunity to gather them up and out w/o any real shock to them. My LFS has those sponge filters you were talking about so I will pick one up today. I have some Aquaclear PH that have the quick filter attachments so I will use those as well.

What should the SG be for Hypo?

Thanks again,
Fredy