New and upgrading

tletourneau

New member
Hello, my wife and I have been doing planted freshwater for some time. We currently have a 75 gallon, 38 gallon bowfront, and a 20 gallon. We recently picked up a 150 gallon tall that we plan on consolidating all of our freshwater aquariums to. Our initial thought was to convert the 75 to a marine aquarium and sell the rest of the freshwater gear.

After much discussion, we have decided to consolidate all of our freshwater to the 150 as planned and use both the FX4 from the 75 & the new FX6 on that tank. We are going to get rid of the remaining freshwater setups including the 75 and get the following setup for saltwater:

Red Sea Reefer 350
Simplicity 240 DC Protein Skimmer with DC Pump
Current USA Loop Orbit Marine 48"-60" Marine Bundle
2 - 48" Orbit IC LED Lights
2 - eFlux Wave Pumps 1050 gph ea.
1 - eFlux DC Flow Pump 1900 gph
2 - Tank Mounts for lights
1 - Power Center
BRS GFO & Carbon Reactor - Dual with Pump
Large CITR PRO w/ Sliding Bracket & Black Back, Deluxe with Pump
2 - 300 watt Finnex Titanium Heaters

Future - Seneye Reef Pack with Dri Box and WiFi Web Server

I know the Apex is the gold standard for tank monitor and automation but I just want the monitoring as the Current USA Loop system will be controlling my lights, wave pumps, and return pump. The Loop system will also allow me to add one more wave pump and one more flow pump if needed. I know that the Apex is much more capable and expandable but the Seneye is around $350.00 less and provides most of the monitoring I would like.

This setup will cost a bit more initially than converting our existing 75 gallon but won't be as much of a hodgepodge of equipment.

For sand we plan on 80lbs of CaribSea Ocean Direct - Original Grade Live Sand.

For salt we like AquaVitro Salinity.

Does anyone see any glaring problems or have any input?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
If you want corals you are going to need better lights. Look for something with 3 to 5w leds. Pretty sure the orbits are 0.5w. Lights are definitely one of the cry once purchases.
 
If you want corals you are going to need better lights. Look for something with 3 to 5w leds. Pretty sure the orbits are 0.5w. Lights are definitely one of the cry once purchases.
I appreciate the advice, I thought a lot about the lighting and the Current IC Pro is what I can afford. I've spoken to the manufacturer, Aquacave, Marine Depot, and a few that don't sell them. The consensus has been that they should be fine for fish, soft coral, and some LPS which suits my needs for the foreseeable future so I'm willing to give them a try. This is from Current USA about the lights:
1b6791881eca5d4d668069619e207a3c.jpg


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Try two Chinese black boxes like mars aqua. Lots of power and cheap


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, I'll take a look at them. The down side to that is that I lose the control that the Current system gives for interconnecting the lights, wave pumps, and flow pump. I really like 24/7 programmability for lights and I really can't do an Apex system to start with. I understand the point and will think about it more.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Sorry for the late reply, what about this configuration:

Red Sea Reefer 350
Neptune Systems Apex WIFI Controller System w/ two WAVE pumps
Neptune Systems COR15 Intelligent Return Pump
Zetlight ZT-6600A 200W LED - controlled by Apex
Simplicity 240 DC Protein Skimmer with DC Pump
BRS GFO & Carbon Reactor - Dual with Pump
2 - 300 watt Finnex Titanium Heaters controlled by Apex
 
I have a lot of what you are getting - I think you will be happy

Love the Apex !! No issues with Wav pumps. I may get gyre pumps I just want to try them.

I have RedSea 525 - great tank - only downside is ATO is small, in the way, and not controllable. I replaced with a bigger external tank and a tunze ATO i use apex on/off plug.

Simplicity 320 skimmer - I run on the way low end of water depth range - mine is 6-7. I had deeper at first works better now. I have air adjust needle wide open ( I actually removed muffler and use a tube outside). I have the wedge pipe almost closed.

I got a controllable pump. I never did more than on/off. The way the overflow works on a red sea you dont want to change the flow rate. It causes the overflow to get loud and/or gurgle. I dont think control is needed on a return pump other than on/off plug.

Just my option. For the price you can get 2 Jebao pumps and have a backup. I got an expensive pump , then a cheaper DCS-12000 Jebao as backup. I switched to the Jabao and now thats what I run as it functions the same noise/power/flow. I wish I had just got 2 Jabaos easier to switch and cheaper. Jabeo could wear out faster, but you can can 3ish for the price. Mine has been running fine for several months.

Note: the reason I switched pumps was the AC-DC supply died on the expensive pump. Both pumps have the same quality ( cheap ) AC-DC converter mass made in China.
 
I almost went with the Current USAs they seem nice. I think you'll like them!
I really like having the ability to adjust flow on the return. Very handy doing WC. I ended up with all VorTech pumps, the 40s on the glass and the M1 down below. IMO they are the only way to go!
Go a head spoil your selfs!
 
Thanks for the replies! I picked the Neptune return pump for its ability to be controlled by the Apex, would the Simplicity pump be controllable by the Apex as well? If so then it seems like a good option, thanks! The lighting is where I am hung up a bit. I like the integration of the Current USA Loop system but if the lighting is not sufficient then I need to look at other options. I want the ability to control the light, wave makers, and return pump from a single point so if I can't use the Current system for that I will use the Apex as I am getting the Apex for monitoring no matter which way I go with the other items.

I picked the Zetlight because it is Apex controllable and not insanely expensive. However I do not want to get a light that won't work well on a 48" tank with softies and LPS. I've done some research and found that the AI HD lights don't interface with the Apex so those are out. I don't want black box lights because they are not natively controllable by the Apex and I don't want to have to mod something to make it work, also the review that BRS did on them left me concerned.

Can anyone recommend any reasonably price Apex controllable LED's?
 
Can anyone recommend any reasonably price Apex controllable LED's?


I would say just get you 2 AI Hydra 52s and call it a day for now. If your budget doesn't allow for 2, I personally would say just get 1 then add the other shortly after. When you are setting up your tank, you won't need all of the lighting anyway since it will need to cycle and once it has finished it's cycle, you may be able to find a used Hydra 52 on the forum or just buy it new.

Personally, I'd say do not buy something just to settle because of budget. Get what you feel will work properly for your setup for many, many years down the road. You will save in the long run.
 
Sorry for the late reply! I really want something the Apex will control, so we are now looking at the following. It may cost a bit more at the outset but between the concern about the Current USA Orbit IC Pro lighting being sufficient, the Zetlight not being a good product, and that I want one system to control the aquarium we are looking at going with the following:

Red Sea Reefer 350
Simplicity 240 DC Protein Skimmer with DC Pump
Simplicity DC-1600 Return Pump
Neptune Apex System with 2 WAV Pumps
Neptune MPR Magnetic Probe Holder
Neptune ATK - Auto Top Off Kit
Neptune 1/4" Flow Sensor?
Neptune SV1 Solenoid Valve?
2 - Kessil A360W-E Tuna Blue Wide Lens LED's
2 - Kessil Fixed Mounting Arms
Kessil 90° Unit Link Cable
Kessil Neptune Apex Control Cable
BRS GFO and Carbon Reactor - Dual with Pump
Large CITR PRO w/ Sliding Bracket and Black Back, Deluxe with Pump?
2 - 300 watt Finnex Titanium Heaters

The flow sensor and solenoid valve may be used with the ATK. As the RODI system and water storage will be on a different floor than the aquarium it might be easier to tie right into the RODI output but I'm not sure.

I'm also not sure if we need the CITR box. As I plan on the ATO to run from a separate source I may look at a way to convert the included ATO tank into a refugium if one is needed.

Does anyone see any glaring problems or have any input on this configuration?
 
Well it's all ordered! :)

Here is what we ended up going with.

Red Sea Reefer 350
Simplicity 240 DC Protein Skimmer with DC Pump
Simplicity DC-1600 Return Pump
Neptune Apex System with 2 WAV Pumps
Neptune MPR Magnetic Probe Holder
Neptune ATK - Auto Top Off Kit
Neptune SV1 Solenoid Valve
Neptune IO Breakout Box
Neptune LD2 Leak Detector
2 - Aquatic Life Halo M80 Basic's
2 - Aquatic Life 24" Mounting Arms
Aquatic Life Neptune Apex Control Cable
BRS GFO and Carbon Reactor - Dual with Pump
2 - 300 watt Finnex Titanium Heaters
3 - CaribSea Ocean Direct - Original Grade Live Sand, 20 lb.
50 pounds Reed Saver Dry Live Rock
Ace Roto Mold 40 Gallon Vertical Dome Top Tank VT0040-18 for RODI storage, NSF with gallon indicators.
Float Valve
Vertical Mount Float Switch

For anyone interested in the 40 gallon tank Rural King has the best price with shipping I found. Just about all of the on-line retailers I found that carried the item want $80+ for shipping. Rural King shipped it UPS for about $13 and was less expensive for the item as well.

We are going to have RODI plumbed to the 40 gallon storage tank using the float valve to shut it off when full. The tank will be placed so that the overflow can go directly in a drain.


The solenoid valve be used with the ATK. As the RODI system and water storage will be on a different floor than the aquarium it will be easier to tie right into the RODI output. The leak detector will be in the sump area.

As I will be running the ATO to from a separate source I may look at a way to convert the included ATO tank into a refugium if one is needed but I don't know if it is worth the effort for a 2.8 gallon volume.

Any thoughts on the path?
 
I tried to make an little fuge out of the ATO on my redsea 525. I wast happy with it. I now use a macro algae reactor that sits in my sump.
 
Well we got the rock placed and should be adding sand and water this weekend. We also returned the Aquatic Life M-80 Halo's, I just couldn't get the to work right with the Apex. We ran up to Bulk Reef Supply and picked up a pair of Kessil's with the A mounting arms. I was able to get those working immediately.
 
And it has water in it, yay! We'll be adding the Dr. Tim's One and Only tomorrow to help kick start the cycle. The return pump and skimmer are noisier than I thought they would be. I may need to look at alternate solutions.
 

Attachments

  • 20180303_221459.jpg
    20180303_221459.jpg
    19.9 KB · Views: 3
Back
Top