I recently purchased an anemone that was attached to a rock. I only wanted the anemone, but it wasn't letting go of the rock, so I agreed to take both. My question is, if I can't get it to let go, how long would the rock have to be in QT before I could move it to the DT without fear of ich making it into my tank? Thanks!
New Rock/Crypto Question
- Thread starter hajas
- Start date
Mrscribbled
Team RC
Minimum 8 weeks. Ten to be safe. Depends on source. Clean lfs? Or something like petco. Some cysts can stay dormant for over 6 months.
I'd be more worried about the anemone. They are squishy, and I don't see how you could ever get all the water off of one. According to snorvich, 3 days spent in isolation is sufficient QT time for a coral/invert. Don't know about rock but something tells me it's more like 9+ weeks.
The store I got it from has had ich in their tanks in the past. No obvious signs this time, but I am sure it is in their system in one way or another. If I were to separate the rock and anemone, could I move the anemone after 3 or 4 days? I'd like to move the anemone to the DT, the rock I would be in no hurry to move.
Yes, if you could separate the anemone from the rock that would be ideal. (Try rubbing an ice cube on his base to make him let go.) QT the anemone in a fishless environment for 3 days and then you should be good to go.
As for the rock, I would soak it in RODI f/w and then let it air dry. You can safely reuse it as dry rock. Unless it's got some cool stuff living on it/in it.
coralreefdoc
New member
Try cutting away all the rock around the anemone so just the foot is still attached ... Then, dip that rock section in a H2O2-Ro/Di solution, being very careful not to expose the anemone to the solution !
This will severly limit the chances of an Cryptocaron irritans cysts making into the display along with the anemone.
* Which species of anemone ? Makes a difference with another option I have available for your consideration ...
This will severly limit the chances of an Cryptocaron irritans cysts making into the display along with the anemone.
* Which species of anemone ? Makes a difference with another option I have available for your consideration ...
Carch melanopte
In Memoriam
b0bab0ey,
What is your logical deduction on a 3 day quarantine period?
What is your logical deduction on a 3 day quarantine period?
Because only a theront could possibly be brought in with a coral/invert. And theronts must find a (fish) host within twenty-four hours or die. In all fairness, I must credit snorvich for endowing me with this logic. This link helped me to understand as well:
http://www.nationalfishpharm.com/articles/cryptocarayon_irritans.html
coralreefdoc
New member
* Tomonts/tomites can/will stay encysted up to a month, FYI ... Not just 3 days !
The length of time encysted is greatly dependent on a multitude of aspects/conditions ...
The length of time encysted is greatly dependent on a multitude of aspects/conditions ...
Well then, wouldn't gently pouring some tank water over a coral/invert just before it goes in "wash away" any life stage of Crypto? Since it can't attach to a coral/invert?
It is a carpet nem (s. gigantea)
coralreefdoc
New member
I'd advise you not to attempt Quarantine then, unless you have a seriously capable anemone quarantine system, as acclimating/maintaining Stichodactyla gigantea is difficult enough without the added stress created from an insufficient QT system !
Either cut away the rock or dip/brush it in a H2O2/RoDi solution ...
If you decide to attempt to persuade the S.g specimen to detach from the rock DO NOT use the ice cube "idiotism", its acutely stressful to the anemone and typically results only in shrinkage, not the desired movement ... It's purely bad advise, especially for the more difficult Stichodactyla gigantea/Heteractis magnifica species. Rather, add a "reasonably strong" pump to the acclimation chamber/container and make the anemone "uncomfortable" with the force of linear flow directed at its foot. Now, these species appreciate strong flow rates so its imperative to find a balance between "tissue tearing" and a "naturally brisk current" flow.
Do you have any prior experience with either of these species, honestly ? It should be stated you are undertaking a serious/difficult task with this species, the chance of transferring the "tomont" stage of ich is realistically low on the list of your concerns here ...
Either cut away the rock or dip/brush it in a H2O2/RoDi solution ...
If you decide to attempt to persuade the S.g specimen to detach from the rock DO NOT use the ice cube "idiotism", its acutely stressful to the anemone and typically results only in shrinkage, not the desired movement ... It's purely bad advise, especially for the more difficult Stichodactyla gigantea/Heteractis magnifica species. Rather, add a "reasonably strong" pump to the acclimation chamber/container and make the anemone "uncomfortable" with the force of linear flow directed at its foot. Now, these species appreciate strong flow rates so its imperative to find a balance between "tissue tearing" and a "naturally brisk current" flow.
Do you have any prior experience with either of these species, honestly ? It should be stated you are undertaking a serious/difficult task with this species, the chance of transferring the "tomont" stage of ich is realistically low on the list of your concerns here ...
FWIW, I've kept a number of "true" carpets over the past 20-30 yrs, and have not found them to be difficult to keep. But your parameters do need to be stable, water flow good and it's important to provide them with supplemental feeding. I've successfully kept them under VHOs and MH.
Now, what I don't like about them is they are fish eaters. I don't mean to say they'll purposely catch your fish, but any fish that accidentally brushes against one of those things is probably a goner. The first time your hand comes in contact with that anemone you'll understand why.
Now, what I don't like about them is they are fish eaters. I don't mean to say they'll purposely catch your fish, but any fish that accidentally brushes against one of those things is probably a goner. The first time your hand comes in contact with that anemone you'll understand why.
Honestly, I don't know. This has now become a bit of a "grey area" for me. Because the rock & nem were in the same tank for awhile I would think the nem might need to be QT'd in a different (fishless) tank for 3 days. However, that might be overkill and completely unnecessary.
I would wait to get a 2nd opinion from snorvich. But I would at least rinse the nem off with DT water before putting him in the DT. Might be another unnecessary precaution, but I can't see it hurting anything either.
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Mrscribbled
Team RC
Leave anemone were it is and move rock out. Wait 3 days ater that and you should be fine I would think. You'd be surprised what anemones go through before hitting retailers. Most wholsalers and suppliers have them in tanks with no lighting at all for days if not weeks.
