About 6 months ago I started up a 90 gallon reef tank I have been around the hobby for about 8 years however, this is the first tank I have ever started on my own. I am having major issues with ich my water quality is spot on but I have lost a blue regal and a swallowtail angel. I also have a sailfin that is battling ich right now. My corals are doing great but constantly having problems with certain fish. I currently have 2 T5's lighting my aquarium and plan to switch to Hydra 52 soon. The only thing i can figure is my water temperature it fluctuates from 78 to 81 during the day when the lights are on. Is this enough difference to cause the ich? Any other thought on whats going on?
New to hobby please advise
- Thread starter brb0782
- Start date
mjc041800
New member
My tank also fluctuates between 77 and 82, I believe it is normal. I was told by some people on here that it is a plus side because when there is a traumatic event (power outage) the fish will already be used to the temp. fluctuations, unlike if you had your temp. constantly stable at 78 and then a power outage happened and It went down or up a couple degrees, you might have some big issues. Hope that sort of helps, or gives you an idea
gone fishin
New member
The water temp fluctuating has nothing to do with ich. You got ich in your DT. You have a choice to make either get rid of ich or manage ich.
If you choose to manage ich then feed well try to keep your water pristine and cross your fingers.
To get rid of ich you need to remove all your fish and treat them in a QT/HT by one of the following treatments.
1. Tank transfer method (TTM)
2. copper treatment such as cupramine
3. chloroquin phosphate
4. Hyposalinity
Also the display tank needs to remain fallow or fishless for 72 days. Then in the future QT your fish prior to putting in the display tank. Good luck
The link will give more info
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196
If you choose to manage ich then feed well try to keep your water pristine and cross your fingers.
To get rid of ich you need to remove all your fish and treat them in a QT/HT by one of the following treatments.
1. Tank transfer method (TTM)
2. copper treatment such as cupramine
3. chloroquin phosphate
4. Hyposalinity
Also the display tank needs to remain fallow or fishless for 72 days. Then in the future QT your fish prior to putting in the display tank. Good luck
The link will give more info
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1992196
heathlindner25
New member
They are.
rt67ghy
Member
Once ich is in your tank it will be present on the skin of the fish. If the fish are healthy and face no aggression from other fish they will have a good resistance to the parasite. If anything happens to cause stress (normally aggression between a couple of fish) the ich will become evident on the fish and out of control as the fish's resistance to disease decreases from the stress factor. However, certain fish such as mandarins and marine bettas have a very good resistance to ich and probably won't come down with ich even when all of your other fish have.
Saltliquid
New member
Think of your fish tank in relation to ich as a room with ten people in it and one has a really bad cold at the contagious stage, some will get it full on, some will get it and only suffer a little and some will get it and not feel sick and not show symptoms.
Same with us as with them, some have better immune systems, some are easily stressed weakening immune system, some are as tough as nails but there is only one way to enable natural ich and velvet culling and with live rock and near no wet section anywhere it is very weak at best.
I use the more robust symbiotic protists to knock them off nicely, it’s a system design issue.
Hopefully most of your fish will survive, if so their immune system with in their mucus coating will retain that chem make up memory to fight it off in the future.
Same with us as with them, some have better immune systems, some are easily stressed weakening immune system, some are as tough as nails but there is only one way to enable natural ich and velvet culling and with live rock and near no wet section anywhere it is very weak at best.
I use the more robust symbiotic protists to knock them off nicely, it’s a system design issue.
Hopefully most of your fish will survive, if so their immune system with in their mucus coating will retain that chem make up memory to fight it off in the future.
ericarenee
New member
This is Quite GOOD AND Bleeding edge technology.. CAN you please tell us how to get our own "NO WET SECTION " As well as this "ROBUST SYMBIOTIC PROTISTS ".
I Would love to NEVER HAVE TO QT or treat my fish again.....
Thanks in Advance for the Follow up to explain this to a 20 year Aquarium newbie :uhoh3:
Mark9
New member
Is the near no wet section before or after the dry zone?
Saltliquid
New member
Well from this 35 year newbie “that didn’t just buy it and was fascinated by all aspects of the natural processes with the ocean”, oh and have been in it observing and collecting as much as possible for all those years, I always have some where a feasible wet section that is loosely based on the under gravel principle, the water has to pass for sometime through relatively fine calcium based media with in the aquariums water.
Of course with only 20 years experience your refiltering capacity would not sustain such a thing at full function after only 20 years experience.
The need to keep this type of thing clean is virtually never applied, so they fail, virtually always do!
If you did this it would most likely be full of rubbish with in 6 months to a year for sure and be failing nicely, they don’t work the way most use them, if they did use them that is and are left with a nitrate factory or hydrogen sulphide factory, either way it is a fail!
There are species of protists, you know the family name that was once protozoa, you know them surely, they comprise in part of white spot, velvet and so on.
Well that family has with in it; species that like to graze on and many use symbiotically some of the bacteria species that represent your nitrogen cycle bacteria.
I use them by providing where they can exist in supportive numbers and more to help keep the parasitic varieties as juveniles of one of the most represented forms of life in your aquarium, being protista, at bay.
You know when the aquarium is more or less mature, that’s these guys doing their bit, along with many other functions of course.
20 years hey, cool!
Of course with only 20 years experience your refiltering capacity would not sustain such a thing at full function after only 20 years experience.
The need to keep this type of thing clean is virtually never applied, so they fail, virtually always do!
If you did this it would most likely be full of rubbish with in 6 months to a year for sure and be failing nicely, they don’t work the way most use them, if they did use them that is and are left with a nitrate factory or hydrogen sulphide factory, either way it is a fail!
There are species of protists, you know the family name that was once protozoa, you know them surely, they comprise in part of white spot, velvet and so on.
Well that family has with in it; species that like to graze on and many use symbiotically some of the bacteria species that represent your nitrogen cycle bacteria.
I use them by providing where they can exist in supportive numbers and more to help keep the parasitic varieties as juveniles of one of the most represented forms of life in your aquarium, being protista, at bay.
You know when the aquarium is more or less mature, that’s these guys doing their bit, along with many other functions of course.
20 years hey, cool!
Saltliquid
New member
You guys rely on a skimmer and the surface tension broken to take on what a dry section does, oh and maybe a splash or two in your sump and that's quite funny cause there is no way it is possible to even in part compete with a proper dry section with those ways!
I use a skimmer and break the surface tension as well, but to just rely on these for gas exchange and PH control support, not a chance!
So what do you guys know about the fishes immune system built in to their mucus coating?
Saltliquid
New member
Here you go, but trying to find some thing simple for you on mucosal immune responses of marine fish and you being able to understand is not easy
http://cvi.asm.org/content/10/5/876.full
http://cvi.asm.org/content/10/5/876.full
jminick2
New member
so fish do build an immunity to ich if they live through the initial infection?
ericarenee
New member
do what??????
I am sorry maybe its my lack of experience. But reading this makes think about how the people on that Sims game... I just do not understand.
gone fishin
New member
It is a temporary immunity to that particular strain for up to six months. they can still act as carriers. scroll down in the link to the immunity section.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2159738
questions like these is why these derailments are bad in the the new to hobby section.
gone fishin
New member
Regardless of where the fish were purchased you have ich in your system and it was brought in due to lack of a good QT protocol.
All the other stuff posted aside, I still stand by my first post those are your options.
jminick2
New member
so in theory if every fish is infected with ich in your DT and they all live... and no new fish are added within 6 months your tank could be ich free and that particular strain will die off?
out of all the posts related to what I said you pick mine to point out the derailment. anyways it's hardly a derailment if we are still discussing useful information about ICH.
gone fishin
New member
I'm sorry the derailment comment was not directed towards you. The derailment was all the stuff about a dry side, dry water, heavy water, light water. it happened in another thread as well.
In theory yes I suppose ich could die off. But the temporary immunity last for up to six months. If at any time though an active infection starts up then it is back to square one. I really do not think the odds would me in my favor. There is also some literature floating around that if no new strains of ich are introduced then the strain would burn itself out in about 11 months.
