KMS.Kyle
New member
Hello - I'm new to the hobby and looking for some suggestions on how to make this tank better or if where I'm at is OK. Eventually I want to have a nice reef and have spent quite a few hours researching - but opinions / experience are always helpful.
I recently purchased an odd sized 55 gallon tank from a couple that had it for 8 months. It was fully cycled and came with 6 fish, 100+ lbs of live rock and a few corals (Zoa, Hammer, frogspawn, Green star polyp and a few others) (and 2 snails, 3 hermits and a massive tiger snail).
The Tank: (Interestingly shaped)
39 x 14 x 32
Cleair Aquatics brand w/ digital timer + temperature display.
(Note: the light definitely wasn't strong enough to reach the bottom of this tank as the couple had their frogspawn/hammer for 3 months and they barely grew as much as they've grown in 1 week under my new kessil 360N)
They had this tank the entire time with no skimmer, no power heads - just the heater and pump and this tank DOES NOT seem to be made for saltwater - so I've been doing my best to correct things where I can)
The Fish:
Golden Sleeper Goby
Firefish Goby
2 Young clowns
1 PJ Cardinal
1 Melanurus Fairy Wrasse
The Gear I have/purchased so far:
- FILSTAR XP-S Pump (filled the bottom with live rock pieces to add to it)
- 2x - Fluval Powerhead (50+ gallon) (thought this would be enough in a narrow tank and seems to be doing great)
- Apex JR + Temperature prob
- Kessil 360N Tuna blue (This coupled with the cheap bar light they have seem to do GREAT everything is thriving)
- Tunze Nano DOC 9004 Skimmer - Not much space to work with here so I had to opt to get this and it seems to be doing great - Nitrate levels are 0-5/Ammonia 0.
Questions -
-I currently have my power heads pointed in opposite directions - one pointed towards my view and one towards the back wall -(Note: the picture was before I purchased the 2 fluval power heads) it seems to do a really good job circulating - but I was wondering - would putting them on the side walls opposite of each other do this job better?
-Should I wait a couple weeks to add a fish in? After such a massive transfer across town (50% water transfer, 50% sand transfer and winging it with the salinity/ph at first) I feel pretty lucky that everything has worked out this far and I really don't want to screw it up. I've been testing my water every 2 days for SG, PH, Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrite - Everything looks good. That or I wanted to add in a skunk cleaner shrimp. (Also, do you recommend that I get any other tests?)
SG - 0.124-5
PH - 8.1
Ammonia - 0
Nitrate - 0-5
Nitrite - 0
Temp - 25-26 (77-79)
On that note - Do you think my tank is already too stocked and if not - what type of fish would you recommend to add to this current stock? Up to hearing peoples opinions as the tank is definitely an odd shape.
Next question -
The rock setup - As you can see, I did my best to imagine my self as a fish in a reef and tried to make it as visually appealing to me but as engaging as possible for them - but a few things keep happening - A: The snails tend to knock my corals around and sometimes knock my hammer into the sand and I have to put in a lot of work to retrieve it. B: The rocks are steady now but I fear that my goby (of whom tunnels like crazy) is going to spell disaster by taking down the structure. (PS THE TANK is acrylic). I purchased some fluval adhesive - would you recommend me taking a day to apply this for safety?
Also, what would you change or add to the structure? Because its such a tall/narrow tank - I need to make sure the light can reach the reef wall and to the bottom - Do you think I could find some well shaped pieces of rock to adhesive onto the upper rack (assuming I adhesive it all into one piece inside) up a bit taller while still leaving room for light? I think it would look really neat to have it go up at least another 5 inches.. But again, I need an opinion as to if this is over kill and if it may actually just risk losing the lower half of my tanks light after a year of growth, etc.
Next question -
Do auto feeders work? And if so - how do I deal with a high energy fish like my wrasse that requires multiple feedings? Note: I love feeding my fish and caring for my tanks - so this isn't a "I want to do less work" thing - this is a fail safe in case I can't be home to care for my buddies because of an emergency. (I also have Apex JR as mentioned so I can configure the feeder here too)
One more question -
Would it be over-kill (which I read more skimming is never over kill) to add another tunze nano doc 9004 to the right side of my tank? (Opposite of the one on the left) - It would not only look symmetrical but it's quiet and I found one for REALLY cheap that is still in box. (hell, I paid $230 for the other) - That said - note - my water parameters are great right now - but I want to get more corals and possibly 1 more fish in the future.
Thank you for any and all suggestions - Looking forward to sharing in some discussions with all of you.
Attached are some pics of my tank
I recently purchased an odd sized 55 gallon tank from a couple that had it for 8 months. It was fully cycled and came with 6 fish, 100+ lbs of live rock and a few corals (Zoa, Hammer, frogspawn, Green star polyp and a few others) (and 2 snails, 3 hermits and a massive tiger snail).
The Tank: (Interestingly shaped)
39 x 14 x 32
Cleair Aquatics brand w/ digital timer + temperature display.
(Note: the light definitely wasn't strong enough to reach the bottom of this tank as the couple had their frogspawn/hammer for 3 months and they barely grew as much as they've grown in 1 week under my new kessil 360N)
They had this tank the entire time with no skimmer, no power heads - just the heater and pump and this tank DOES NOT seem to be made for saltwater - so I've been doing my best to correct things where I can)
The Fish:
Golden Sleeper Goby
Firefish Goby
2 Young clowns
1 PJ Cardinal
1 Melanurus Fairy Wrasse
The Gear I have/purchased so far:
- FILSTAR XP-S Pump (filled the bottom with live rock pieces to add to it)
- 2x - Fluval Powerhead (50+ gallon) (thought this would be enough in a narrow tank and seems to be doing great)
- Apex JR + Temperature prob
- Kessil 360N Tuna blue (This coupled with the cheap bar light they have seem to do GREAT everything is thriving)
- Tunze Nano DOC 9004 Skimmer - Not much space to work with here so I had to opt to get this and it seems to be doing great - Nitrate levels are 0-5/Ammonia 0.
Questions -
-I currently have my power heads pointed in opposite directions - one pointed towards my view and one towards the back wall -(Note: the picture was before I purchased the 2 fluval power heads) it seems to do a really good job circulating - but I was wondering - would putting them on the side walls opposite of each other do this job better?
-Should I wait a couple weeks to add a fish in? After such a massive transfer across town (50% water transfer, 50% sand transfer and winging it with the salinity/ph at first) I feel pretty lucky that everything has worked out this far and I really don't want to screw it up. I've been testing my water every 2 days for SG, PH, Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrite - Everything looks good. That or I wanted to add in a skunk cleaner shrimp. (Also, do you recommend that I get any other tests?)
SG - 0.124-5
PH - 8.1
Ammonia - 0
Nitrate - 0-5
Nitrite - 0
Temp - 25-26 (77-79)
On that note - Do you think my tank is already too stocked and if not - what type of fish would you recommend to add to this current stock? Up to hearing peoples opinions as the tank is definitely an odd shape.
Next question -
The rock setup - As you can see, I did my best to imagine my self as a fish in a reef and tried to make it as visually appealing to me but as engaging as possible for them - but a few things keep happening - A: The snails tend to knock my corals around and sometimes knock my hammer into the sand and I have to put in a lot of work to retrieve it. B: The rocks are steady now but I fear that my goby (of whom tunnels like crazy) is going to spell disaster by taking down the structure. (PS THE TANK is acrylic). I purchased some fluval adhesive - would you recommend me taking a day to apply this for safety?
Also, what would you change or add to the structure? Because its such a tall/narrow tank - I need to make sure the light can reach the reef wall and to the bottom - Do you think I could find some well shaped pieces of rock to adhesive onto the upper rack (assuming I adhesive it all into one piece inside) up a bit taller while still leaving room for light? I think it would look really neat to have it go up at least another 5 inches.. But again, I need an opinion as to if this is over kill and if it may actually just risk losing the lower half of my tanks light after a year of growth, etc.
Next question -
Do auto feeders work? And if so - how do I deal with a high energy fish like my wrasse that requires multiple feedings? Note: I love feeding my fish and caring for my tanks - so this isn't a "I want to do less work" thing - this is a fail safe in case I can't be home to care for my buddies because of an emergency. (I also have Apex JR as mentioned so I can configure the feeder here too)
One more question -
Would it be over-kill (which I read more skimming is never over kill) to add another tunze nano doc 9004 to the right side of my tank? (Opposite of the one on the left) - It would not only look symmetrical but it's quiet and I found one for REALLY cheap that is still in box. (hell, I paid $230 for the other) - That said - note - my water parameters are great right now - but I want to get more corals and possibly 1 more fish in the future.
Thank you for any and all suggestions - Looking forward to sharing in some discussions with all of you.
Attached are some pics of my tank
