Newbie trying to cycle tank

Jpcrash1

New member
Hi , I am new to the hobby. :wave:I put in my live rock and sand and I didn't see a high amonia reading ,but I did have a sudden spike in nitrites. Is this normal ?
 
It is possible. Did you add any sort of ammonia source? Folks will usually add a deli shrimp to rot and produce ammonia, some fish food or pure ammonia to get the cycle started and going.
 
Hello and welcome to RC!!

How long has your tank been cycling and what have you been using to cycle it? What test kits are you using to test and how often are you testing?

To answer your question you cannot have nitrites without ammonia and it is possible you missed an ammonia spike. Look at the stickies on the new to hobby for more specifics on cycling, but from what you've said it looks normal to me...
 
Using live rock will certainly jump start a tanks "cycle", but there are many variables that will affect what parameter swings you will see as it progresses.

If it's good quality mature live rock, and it wasn't subjected to too much stress when you moved it, (temp, drying out, etc) then you might have a decent starting point on the bacteria needed to process any ammonia created by a slight bit of die-off.

It would be a good idea to induce an ammonia spike (with a raw dead shrimp or pure ammonia, not cleaning solution) and watch to see how quickly the tank is able to process than ammonia to nitrites, then nitrates.

Common rule of thumb around here is to raise the ammonia level to 2ppm, and if the tank can convert that to 0ppm in 24 hours, you're ready for your first livestock addition.
 
I used API when I started because it was available and I didn't know any better. I still do for my QT. However, most around here don't think it is very accurate. However, you should be able to measure trends with it and this is the most important thing. Do you have nitrates yet?
 
Look into cycling with Instant Ocean's BioSpira.

Just cycled our 150 gallon frag tank pretty much overnight with two pieces of established rock and a dirty filter pad. Added two bottles of BioSpira that treat 75 gallons each and we're good to go :)
 
Yes I have nitrates also.The rock I have is semi cured and has coraline on it.Can I raise the amonia level with any fish food?
 
I don't see any point in adding more ammonia. the evidence is there that you already had some. (nitrites, nitrates) just wait till nitrites are 0 do a water change to reduce nitrates and u r done. this the beauty of cycling with live rock. just add your livestock slowly and it'll be fine. Of course there is nothing wrong with being extra careful and double checking by adding more ammonia. : )
 
if your live rock is semi cured it will Produce some ammonia from organic die off if you have nitrite and nitrates. you likely missed any ammonia or not testing correctly... I would NOT add nothing and watch the nitrites... I Almost bet they will start to drop...

SHORT . I THINK YOU JUST Missed the ammonia. W

:spin1:With that said i was wrong once.. Then the earth Axis adjusted to change all Woman kind and creatures on this planet to realign reality to right the wrong as if it never happened:spin1:
 
I don't see any point in adding more ammonia. the evidence is there that you already had some. (nitrites, nitrates) just wait till nitrites are 0 do a water change to reduce nitrates and u r done. this the beauty of cycling with live rock. just add your livestock slowly and it'll be fine. Of course there is nothing wrong with being extra careful and double checking by adding more ammonia. : )

1+ this....
 
Along the same lines, a question regarding cycling. I am restarting a 37gallon cube with shallow sand bottom and about 1/3 of the original live rock I had in it as a FOWLR. I kept the one fish I originally had in the system (a 10 year old ocellaris clownfish). My goal is to convert this to an sps only tank. Tank has been up for 3 weeks after a 100% water change and nitrates consistently measure 10 using salifert kit. My questions are:
1. How long should it take for my nitrates to drop to an sps safe level?
2. Should I do a WC to lower the nitrates or just let it continue until it naturally reduces?
3. Anything else I should do to cycle it faster?
4. Any concern adding more fish at this stage?
5. Should I worry about dosing 2 part to maintain ALK and Ca at this point or wait until my nitrate is lower and then do a water change and start dosing?

Thanks for your advice.
 
Along the same lines, a question regarding cycling. I am restarting a 37gallon cube with shallow sand bottom and about 1/3 of the original live rock I had in it as a FOWLR. I kept the one fish I originally had in the system (a 10 year old ocellaris clownfish). My goal is to convert this to an sps only tank. Tank has been up for 3 weeks after a 100% water change and nitrates consistently measure 10 using salifert kit. My questions are:
1. How long should it take for my nitrates to drop to an sps safe level?
2. Should I do a WC to lower the nitrates or just let it continue until it naturally reduces?
3. Anything else I should do to cycle it faster?
4. Any concern adding more fish at this stage?
5. Should I worry about dosing 2 part to maintain ALK and Ca at this point or wait until my nitrate is lower and then do a water change and start dosing?

Thanks for your advice.
nitrates will not reduce naturally in our aquariums they need to be exported out by water changes or biopellets....as far as your two part question. that is one of a few ways to maintain alk and calc, I use kalkwasser in my ATO. the first step would be figuring out how much is being consumed once you are all set up with corals until then I wouldn't worry about it. there should be no issue adding a fish at this point as long as ammonia and nitrites are 0.

also I'd like to add, it takes a few months for a tank to fully stabilize. I would hold off on spending a bunch of money on expensive SPS until you have a very good understanding of what it takes to maintain an SPS dominant tank.
 
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Newbie trying to cycle tank

nitrates will not reduce naturally in our aquariums they need to be exported out by water changes or biopellets....as far as your two part question. that is one of a few ways to maintain alk and calc, I use kalkwasser in my ATO. the first step would be figuring out how much is being consumed once you are all set up with corals until then I wouldn't worry about it. there should be no issue adding a fish at this point as long as ammonia and nitrites are 0.

also I'd like to add, it takes a few months for a tank to fully stabilize. I would hold off on spending a bunch of money on expensive SPS until you have a very good understanding of what it takes to maintain an SPS dominant tank.


Question then how did my nitrate go from 80 ppm to zero with no w/c in my cycle? I had about 30lbs of Dry rock ghost feeding in tote.

Here is day 3 of cycle.
bd69b88199890e3c18d6caa66578b7ef.jpg


Here is week 2
f26112ddb41038b31910e1df59cf3b31.jpg


Here week 3.
f4662a5a74d106a5cbc86aac668374d3.jpg


Here is day 34.
96782ed00f1173b0a3e39ac4e6f3d561.jpg
 
Question then how did my nitrate go from 80 ppm to zero with no w/c in my cycle? I had about 30lbs of Dry rock ghost feeding in tote.

Here is day 3 of cycle.
bd69b88199890e3c18d6caa66578b7ef.jpg


Here is week 2
f26112ddb41038b31910e1df59cf3b31.jpg


Here week 3.
f4662a5a74d106a5cbc86aac668374d3.jpg


Here is day 34.
96782ed00f1173b0a3e39ac4e6f3d561.jpg

nitrites were present causing your nitrate test to give a false reading. common with api test, they always make it read off the charts. when the nitrites went away you got a correct reading on your nitrates. [emoji2]
 
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