Not new…but New

AT_Hiker

AT_Hiker

Member
Hello All!
I’m returning to the hobby after a several year break, so I’m not new, but I feel like I need to reeducate myself before starting again. In the past I ran an old fashioned Berlin setup. A 75 gal DT with 75 lbs of live rock. A 20 gal sump with a nice skimmer, a GFO/carbon reactor, dosed with 2-part. I did weekly 10% water changes, and had a lot of flow. I thought I was doing it right, but I ended up starting over twice due to an unwinnable battle with bubble algae and dinos and then finally just giving up.

So here I am several years later ready to give it another try. I’m considering using the Zeovit system and dosing Kalkwasser on maybe a 150-200 gal DT. I now have space for a dedicated equipment room, and want to get it right this time. So my question is, is zeovit a good system and what is the optimal setup look like for this system? For example I know that chaeto will die, so there’s not much use for a large refugium. Might run one anyway for additional live rock and a place to breed pods. Should I be considering some other system?
 
Last edited:
AT_Hiker said:
Hello All!
I’m returning to the hobby after a several year break, so I’m not new, but I feel like I need to reeducate myself before starting again. In the past I ran an old fashioned Berlin setup. A 75 gal DT with 75 lbs of live rock. A 20 gal sump with a nice skimmer, a GFO/carbon reactor, dosed with 2-part. I did weekly 10% water changes, and had a lot of flow. I thought I was doing it right, but I ended up starting over twice due to an unwinnable battle with bubble algae and dinos and then finally just giving up.

So here I am several years later ready to give it another try. I’m considering using the Zeovit system and dosing Kalkwasser on maybe a 150-200 gal DT. I now have space for a dedicated equipment room, and want to get it right this time. So my question is, is zeovit a good system and what is the optimal setup look like for this system? For example I know that chaeto will die, so there’s not much use for a large refugium. Might run one anyway for additional live rock and a place to breed pods. Should I be considering some other system?
Click to expand...
I like the way you were doing it the first time although I wouldn't run GFO unless I actually had a phosphate problem and then I'd still find another way to control phosphates.

I've never used Zeovit but I think it needs to match your personality, that being a "tinkerer".
 
Welcome back!

What are your goals for the tank? SPS, LPS, softies, FOWLR, etc.?

As @kharmaguru mentioned, no reason for GFO unless there is a problem...watch PO4 and adjust before you need to use GFO. Dinos like it when there are low nutrients.

I have no experience with Zeovit and am not sure how many folks are using it today. In the beginning, my tank was a ULNS until it matured about two years later (now). Finally, I have some PO4 (.05) and my Acropora are starting to blossom...finally! Personally, I like soda ash over kalkwasser as I can dial in the value independent of my evaporation. You will not need to dose anything in the first year, just do water changes weekly. After you put in some corals (if you do) and they begin to grow, then you can begin to monitor levels and decide how you would like to dose.

Foxface and Emerald crabs (monitor these guys, females are best) will eat Bubble Algae. I remove manually as I see it.

I dose the following and all are independent of one another. They are all on automatic dosing equipment (RedSea ReefDose4, Bubble Magus for PO4). This system works well for me. YMMV Again, I would not worry about dosing for the first year, then spend your money.

Alk
Ca
Mg
Part C
PO4
 
I agree with kharmaguru. It's the way a lot of people are doing it. You can overcome dinos. Bubble algae is another thing. You have to get that right away. Be on the look out for it and remove it right away. I get all my live stock from other people so I get to see there tanks.
 
AT_Hiker said:
This time I’m planning on doing all the above. I think part of my problem with dinos came from trying to have very low P04. It seems in recent years opinions have changed on the subject.
Click to expand...

Definitely! From my understanding many try for around 5-25 nitrates and .03-.1 phosphate (my numbers may be slightly off
 
reefing102 said:
Definitely! From my understanding many try for around 5-25 nitrates and .03-.1 phosphate (my numbers may be slightly off
Click to expand...

I think you are spot on with the PO4. I've even read recently that NO3 was not so important and to focus on PO4. However, you know how we see fads and opinions come and go in this hobby. What I do now is to pay close attention to the corals...daily. Watch the numbers and try not to overreact; keep it slow and steady. Although, we know how hard this can be in real life! lol
 
I am old school. In a good sized system I like the tank, overflow to a sump, good skimmer, some UV, some 2-part, and other basic supplements and of course good lighting. One thing I recently do is dose some bacteria, but nothing like the zeovit system. I don't know much about zeovit, but my understanding is that you may need to monitor the tank parameters more with it. Certainly a lot based on the following article.

 
I didn't even know Zeovit was still around. It was all the rage quite a few years ago, but like @MtnDewMan said, I believe there's a lot to monitor with such a system. I prefer the basic tests (when I do them) and just monitoring by observing the livestock.
 
AT_Hiker said:
In the past I ran an old fashioned Berlin setup. A 75 gal DT with 75 lbs of live rock. A 20 gal sump with a nice skimmer, a GFO/carbon reactor, dosed with 2-part. I did weekly 10% water changes, and had a lot of flow.
Click to expand...
This is still my preferred setup.
 
JohnL said:
Tell us about this Chuck.
Click to expand...
This is a decent description of it:

www.algaebarn.com

PNS ProBio™

By removing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, consuming organic waste products, providing a nutritious food source for filter-feeders and acting as a powerful probiotic, PNS ProBio™ is a highly beneficial addition to your aquarium's microbial community. This product is especially useful for feeding...
www.algaebarn.com www.algaebarn.com

I found that it reduces cyano buildup for sure. My coral continue to grow healthy so maybe there is a benefit to them directly. I put it in a container that sits on a magnet stirrer that kicks on once a day so it is at least stirred daily before dosing. And apparently you can't overdose, so you could literally put in a whole bottle and be okay (so they say).
 
MtnDewMan said:
This is a decent description of it:

www.algaebarn.com

PNS ProBio™

By removing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, consuming organic waste products, providing a nutritious food source for filter-feeders and acting as a powerful probiotic, PNS ProBio™ is a highly beneficial addition to your aquarium's microbial community. This product is especially useful for feeding...
www.algaebarn.com www.algaebarn.com

I found that it reduces cyano buildup for sure. My coral continue to grow healthy so maybe there is a benefit to them directly. I put it in a container that sits on a magnet stirrer that kicks on once a day so it is at least stirred daily before dosing. And apparently you can't overdose, so you could literally put in a whole bottle and be okay (so they say).
Click to expand...
I dosed 2 bottles when I started my tank. My nitrates are always pretty low. Seems like good stuff.
 
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