Novice Aquarist - Sump & Equipment Questions

[SFMAquariums]

Hello!

I recently bought a house that came with a ~225 gallon (72" long x 24" deep x 30" high) built into the wall of the basement, with access to the back of the aquarium through the laundry/storage room. This has prompted me to dive into the hobby of saltwater aquariums! The aquarium was initially used for freshwater fish but I am planning to repurpose it for use as a saltwater mixed reef tank. The house also came with a tank for use as a sump that is ~45 gallon (48" long x 18' deep x 12' wide).

I have already purchased some initial equipment, including the following:
-RedSea ReefMatt 1200
-RedSea Reefer DC Skimmer 600
-RedSea ReefRun G2 DC Pump 8000
-IM Helio Universal Aquarium Heater Controller
-2 x 300 Watt Eheim Jagger heaters
-Tropic Marin High Precision Hydrometer + 500 mL graduated cylinder
-Instant Ocean Reef Crystals (320 gallon)
-R/O filtration system


I am in the process of making a DIY durso standpipe & am looking to order a custom weir/overflow box to fit this. I am also in the process of ordering a custom made sump/baffle kit from Modular Marine (modularmarine) to build my sump. I therefore had a few questions regarding this:
1) Is a single durso standpipe/overflow sufficient for a ~225 gallon aquarium or should I be looking to add an additional overflow?
2) How many chambers should an ideal sump for a tank of this size have? I was initially planning for an initial chamber with pre-filter socks & the ReefMatt, a second chamber with the protein skimmer, a third chamber for a refugium & then a final chamber for the return pump.
3) In the order process, Modular Marine has asked me how many baffles I want & if I want these baffles to be built so water passes through the middle or if I want water to have to pass over the top of the baffle. They have also asked me how tall I need the baffles to be for the ones that the water flows over the top (teeth are 1' tall on these so add 1' to how high you need the water level). I have been trying to find resources to help me with this but am striking out online so far.
4) I am currently also in the process of sorting out lighting & wavemakers. I am considering sticking with RedSea products just for ease of use with everything being on one system/app but was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this? Further more, I was tentatively planning to start with 2 of the ReefWave 45 (one at each end of the tank for cyclical water flow) & 2 of the ReefLED G2. Does anybody have strong thoughts about these products/this plan?

As I mentioned I am completely green to this hobby so any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Thanks so much.

 

[SFMAquariums]

Took some photos in case that helps!

(wasn’t sure which forum I should post this in so did cross post, happy to delete whoever ones are incorrectly posted)

 

[Reefing102]

Welcome to RC!

My experience has been most tanks that big generally have two overflows (one in each corner). Whether or not that’s is needed, I think will depend on how you get your flow set up.

The number of chambers is up to you, but your 4 chamber set up sounds like a plan (some may shorten it to 3 chambers and put equipment like the protein skimmer in the return chamber.

As for baffles, I’m always for the tried and true ones that flow over the top. Now how tall, I can’t be certain, but you will want to have enough space in your sump for water to drain from your main display (from display water height to overflow drain height) when power is off/goes out. I’d take a look at some Red Sea or trigger sump set ups to get a rough idea of how they have their baffles set up.

To be fair to Red Sea, while I would never reccomend their tanks, their equipment seems to generally be pretty good. That being said, if your wanting adequate light coverage (if you’re going to attempt corals/anemones), you’re likely going to want 3-4 ReefLED as each set up is designed for a maximum spread of 24”x24” at max height.

As to their wavemakers, the amount of flow you need/want will depend on your aquascape and the types/quantity of corals you grow. Soft corals generally only need lower flow where as SPS corals need high flow. Plus as corals grow, the flow pattern changes in the tank which may require additional wavemakers or adjusting the current ones.

I hope this helps some!

 

[griss]

Welcome to RC!

My experience has been most tanks that big generally have two overflows (one in each corner). Whether or not that’s is needed, I think will depend on how you get your flow set up.

The number of chambers is up to you, but your 4 chamber set up sounds like a plan (some may shorten it to 3 chambers and put equipment like the protein skimmer in the return chamber.

As for baffles, I’m always for the tried and true ones that flow over the top. Now how tall, I can’t be certain, but you will want to have enough space in your sump for water to drain from your main display (from display water height to overflow drain height) when power is off/goes out. I’d take a look at some Red Sea or trigger sump set ups to get a rough idea of how they have their baffles set up.

To be fair to Red Sea, while I would never reccomend their tanks, their equipment seems to generally be pretty good. That being said, if your wanting adequate light coverage (if you’re going to attempt corals/anemones), you’re likely going to want 3-4 ReefLED as each set up is designed for a maximum spread of 24”x24” at max height.

As to their wavemakers, the amount of flow you need/want will depend on your aquascape and the types/quantity of corals you grow. Soft corals generally only need lower flow where as SPS corals need high flow. Plus as corals grow, the flow pattern changes in the tank which may require additional wavemakers or adjusting the current ones.

I hope this helps some!

I agree and can't add anything additional.

 

[wvned]

Does the tank have holes in it for plumbing?

A sump can operate fine with just 2 chambers. One to hold the equipment and the second hold the return pump and sensors to trigger the ATO (Auto Top Off) system.
You don't place a skimmer in the return section because the water level goes up and down. No one does that.

What is typically used is a set of 2 baffles called an under over. This configuration traps bubbles. one piece is tall enough to be above water and lets water flow under it. The second lets water flow over it and sets the running height of water in the sump section.
The ones on the right here.
You add in baffles if you want addition deeper water levels in the sump.
Some people make a refugium in the sump with baffles to contain it
If you want an ATO reservoir in the sump to contain freshwater.

The section on the left in this sump is to contain splashing and hold filter socks or cups and accept the drains.

LOL this picture is wrong. The under over is backwards. The first piece should force bubbles to go under it and keep them trapped. The second piece should set the running depth and have water flow over it.

There is no set sump design though there are universal ones premade and sold. The modular marine kits turn an aquarium into something like a commercially available sump.
Baffles you don't have any purpose for just take up valuable room in the sump and limit where you can place things.
That is balanced by it is difficult (not impossible) to add them later.

 

[game misconduct]

congratulations! thats like a dream house made to spec

 

[SFMAquariums]

Does the tank have holes in it for plumbing?

A sump can operate fine with just 2 chambers. One to hold the equipment and the second hold the return pump and sensors to trigger the ATO (Auto Top Off) system.
You don't place a skimmer in the return section because the water level goes up and down. No one does that.

What is typically used is a set of 2 baffles called an under over. This configuration traps bubbles. one piece is tall enough to be above water and lets water flow under it. The second lets water flow over it and sets the running height of water in the sump section.
The ones on the right here.
You add in baffles if you want addition deeper water levels in the sump.
Some people make a refugium in the sump with baffles to contain it
If you want an ATO reservoir in the sump to contain freshwater.

The section on the left in this sump is to contain splashing and hold filter socks or cups and accept the drains.

LOL this picture is wrong. The under over is backwards. The first piece should force bubbles to go under it and keep them trapped. The second piece should set the running depth and have water flow over it.

There is no set sump design though there are universal ones premade and sold. The modular marine kits turn an aquarium into something like a commercially available sump.
Baffles you don't have any purpose for just take up valuable room in the sump and limit where you can place things.
That is balanced by it is difficult (not impossible) to add them later.

Thank you so much! This was very helpful.

My sump tank is quite long so does have a decent amount of space. Based on what you’ve described, I am wondering if it would it be reasonable to house my protein skimmer & ReefMatt in the same chamber to save some space? I was initially planning on having them in separate chambers (ie. 4 total chambers - intake/reefmatt, protein skimmer, refugium, return) but am wondering if that’s excessive & if I could save space by removing a baffle.

In regards to your other question about if the tank is pre-drilled, yes it is, which is something I am struggling a bit with currently.

There is a single hole drilled in bottom of the tank the left back corner. Was planning to do a simple Durso standpipe there. There is also another hole drilled in the back right corner but at the top of the tank on the back. I was initially planning on putting an Eshopps Eclipse Overflow Kit (size Medium) there for redundancy, however, last night I just realized that the previous owner drilled the hole extremely close to the side wall of the tank & I don’t think the weir will fit. There is only about 1.5” of space between the side wall & the inside edge of the drilled hole (see pictures).

I therefore don’t know if anybody would have any suggestions or solutions? I am planning to make an additional post on this, but wanted to reply to you (and everyone else) for their help regarding my sump questions.

 

[wvned]

The hole on the back top was the return and the bottom would be a drain with a tall pipe. Did the tank have a corner overflow before? These you can silicone in. You add the Durso parts to the top of the pipe to set the running water height.

 

[SFMAquariums]

The hole on the back top was the return and the bottom would be a drain with a tall pipe. Did the tank have a corner overflow before? These you can silicone in. You add the Durso parts to the top of the pipe to set the running water height.

Yes, that is the setup I am looking to build in the back left corner of my tank. I have already ordered a custom black overflow box that I will silicone in. Just sourcing some of the PVC piping locally.

The original setup had the return coming through the other drilled hole in the back upper right of the tank. I was looking to modify this to make that hole into another overflow, as I read that a saltwater mixed reef tank of this size should ideally have 2 overflows (one on each side) for increased surface skimming & redundancy purposes.

But maybe I am incorrect! I am a complete novice to aquariums & have been trying to do my best to research from good sources but have found there to be some conflicting info out there. Going with the original setup of one overflow & the return through the other hole would certainly make my life easier lol

 

[wvned]

2 overflows are not required. If you need absolute safety you can add a Hydros controller and place a water level sensor in the tank so it can never overflow. If the drain plugs it turns the return pump off.