Octo NW200
- Thread starter cccapt
- Start date
Critter
Premium Member
Re: Octo NW200
I have the 150 and mine took about 5 days before it started to really skim. If you run it in vinager before using it helps speed up the process, otherwise you just have to wait for the break-in as it removes the oil residue thats on the inside. I tried the mesh mod, but it didn't seem to make any difference and then eventually started to fall apart. I managed not to destroy the needle wheel making the mod, so I just put it back the way it was. Good luck with it, mine is still going strong after about 2 years. One thing I did notice, is that the air intake to the venturi would start to clott with deposits... You'll notice this, when your getting alot more water comming out of the exit tube riser. One thing I did which seemed to help, was I ran the air tube up to the top of the collection cup lid. The lid has two air holes in it, I put a piece of rigid tubing in the end of the air hose and stuck it in one of the holes... it seems to keep the venturi neck moist and stops it from clotting. Also, if your just using the exit tube riser and not going to mod it, you will probably break the little O ring that makes friction on the riser.. A rubber bad makes a replacement
Chris
I have the 150 and mine took about 5 days before it started to really skim. If you run it in vinager before using it helps speed up the process, otherwise you just have to wait for the break-in as it removes the oil residue thats on the inside. I tried the mesh mod, but it didn't seem to make any difference and then eventually started to fall apart. I managed not to destroy the needle wheel making the mod, so I just put it back the way it was. Good luck with it, mine is still going strong after about 2 years. One thing I did notice, is that the air intake to the venturi would start to clott with deposits... You'll notice this, when your getting alot more water comming out of the exit tube riser. One thing I did which seemed to help, was I ran the air tube up to the top of the collection cup lid. The lid has two air holes in it, I put a piece of rigid tubing in the end of the air hose and stuck it in one of the holes... it seems to keep the venturi neck moist and stops it from clotting. Also, if your just using the exit tube riser and not going to mod it, you will probably break the little O ring that makes friction on the riser.. A rubber bad makes a replacement
Chris
cccapt
New member
Carl....did you do all the mods? What did you do for the venturi? That's the thing I'm not sure about. Boring the elbow and volute cover doesn't seem hard to do, but I'm leary of drilling a hole in the threads where the original venturi goes.
I don't have any mesh either. Do you think that should be done the same time as everything else?
I don't have any mesh either. Do you think that should be done the same time as everything else?
For the venturi I cut the little stud for the airline off and drilled a hole large enough to handle 8mm id tubing. I then glued the tubing over the hole.
On the impellor I just used 2 layers of gutter gaurd tied down with 6lb test fishline and a spot of glue.
The inside of the elbow has been ground down and I did open up the volute some.
Just getting more air in made the most noticable improvement. I would start with the venturi
Carl
On the impellor I just used 2 layers of gutter gaurd tied down with 6lb test fishline and a spot of glue.
The inside of the elbow has been ground down and I did open up the volute some.
Just getting more air in made the most noticable improvement. I would start with the venturi
Carl
Python73
New member
I have this skimmer also. When I fired it up I was concerned that the bubble chamber really doesn't look like it has enough bubbles. I never see it foam up, and I was concerned that it wasn't working. After a couple weeks of letting it go I noticed that there was dark skimmate in the cup. There was no change in the bubble chamber, and I still couldn't see foam.
A couple weeks after that I pulled the cup (zero clearance for the win!) and was impressed with about an inch of sludge skimmate that had collected. It was much denser than the skimmate I expected. I put the cup back on and it is slowly collecting again.
So for me, I never SEE it skim, and I'm not sure when it does skim, but the skimmate is coming from somewhere so I let it be. At less than half the price of a similar ASM, I can't complain.
S !
A couple weeks after that I pulled the cup (zero clearance for the win!) and was impressed with about an inch of sludge skimmate that had collected. It was much denser than the skimmate I expected. I put the cup back on and it is slowly collecting again.
So for me, I never SEE it skim, and I'm not sure when it does skim, but the skimmate is coming from somewhere so I let it be. At less than half the price of a similar ASM, I can't complain.
S !
cccapt
New member
Carl, do you have a Kill A Watt?
I did my mods in stages. 1st bored elbow's and openings and only put a bigger airline on venturi. Big improvement over stock and I was running at 40w.
Next I made a new venturi. 1" threaded adapter, 1" to 3/4" adapter and 3/4' pipe inside. I drilled out a 1/4" hole for the airline. Another big improvement and runing at 45w.
Finally I meshed my impellor. I had this mesh from back in the day of wet/dry filters where the filter media was a roll of filter floss and mesh. This stuff is real nice. 1/2" flat backed. I cut off top row of needles and put on 2 layers of mesh with zip ties. The friggen skimmer is unreal now....and running at 52w. It's rated for 65w.
I tried using the original venturi and bored it out for 1/4" OD line like you did. Pump was running at 76w.
I did my mods in stages. 1st bored elbow's and openings and only put a bigger airline on venturi. Big improvement over stock and I was running at 40w.
Next I made a new venturi. 1" threaded adapter, 1" to 3/4" adapter and 3/4' pipe inside. I drilled out a 1/4" hole for the airline. Another big improvement and runing at 45w.
Finally I meshed my impellor. I had this mesh from back in the day of wet/dry filters where the filter media was a roll of filter floss and mesh. This stuff is real nice. 1/2" flat backed. I cut off top row of needles and put on 2 layers of mesh with zip ties. The friggen skimmer is unreal now....and running at 52w. It's rated for 65w.
I tried using the original venturi and bored it out for 1/4" OD line like you did. Pump was running at 76w.
cccapt
New member
Critter, I didn't take any pics, but I can if there is something you want to see. There are tons of pics on the mod threads and I just followed those. Opening up the 90 and volute is pretty straight forward. Dremel with grinding bit and go to town. I can take a pic of the venturi since it is 3 seperate pieces if you want to see that.
Larry
Larry
cccapt
New member
I marked where the water line is..about 1/2 way up the taper. I'm skimming on the dry side.
This is about 2 days worth of skimmate on my lightly stocked 125.
The venturi is a 1" slip adapter, a 1" to 3/4" adapter and a piece of 3/4". I just had to wrap some teflon tape around the threaded part of the volute to hold it in place.
That is a 1/4" OD air line. I think I'm going to try a 1/4' ID and see if I can get a little more air into it, but not bad for a $200 skimmer.
And a FTS for good measure
This is about 2 days worth of skimmate on my lightly stocked 125.
The venturi is a 1" slip adapter, a 1" to 3/4" adapter and a piece of 3/4". I just had to wrap some teflon tape around the threaded part of the volute to hold it in place.
That is a 1/4" OD air line. I think I'm going to try a 1/4' ID and see if I can get a little more air into it, but not bad for a $200 skimmer.
And a FTS for good measure
