Optimal Lighting for Mixed Reef Tank

[Morbeus]

I recently acquired a 75 gallon aquarium and custom built stand in a game of chance. Along with it, came certain periphery equipment including a Kent Marine RO/DI filter (and new unopened filter replacement cartridges), a Berlin Red Sea X2 Turbo Protein Skimmer, an Eheim Model 2215 canister filter, an Emperor Aquatics 12W UV filter, a backup UV filter, an overflow hangon type filter, a 300W submersible heater and a 100W backup. Additionally, I received an unopened bucket of Instant Ocean marine salt, 3 Penguin 660 powerheads, a large 900-1200 gph (I think) pump, a bunch of pvc and pool type hoses, some large pieces of dry coral rock, and a basic 48" fluorescent light and hood.

I have read through a few of the posts on the forums and it seems like the more that I read, the more complex setting up a reef tank has become or can be. I am interested in setting up a mixed reef tank (reef safe fish/inverts and mixed corals eventually - LPS/SPS) and want to use best efforts to have a correct, low maintenance setup from inception and have this venture be enjoyable without becoming too much work or having to do things over after having not done them correctly the first go around. Needless to say, I am taking my time to learn about this before rushing into it.

Accordingly, I have not formally set up anything as of yet and was in the process of purchasing some better lighting. I am considering using only LED lighting and looked at the Maxspect Razor, the ************ Photon 48, and a few others but have not ruled out a combo style (MH/t5 or t5/LED) setup (or other viable alternative) although to be able to not have a chiller would probably be a nice option for me considering my goal of having a quiet less complex system, at least at first. I know that there are several extensive threads regarding LED lighting and it seems like many people have differing opinions on what is ideal but I would appreciate some feedback and counsel from some of you who have used different types of lighting in the past and can advise me accordingly on what you feel would be a wise choice. I would prefer doing a leg type mounting system to the extent possible.

As far as my setup goes, I was planning to possibly have a local glass company drill a couple bulkheads in the top back of my tank (as long as it is not tempered glass) to have more of a foolproof overflow system so as not to rely solely on the integrity of a siphon based overflow system. If this is not possible I guess I will have to go with an overflow box and standard siphon system.

I was also considering purchasing an Acqueon ProFlex Model 2 Sump/Refugium to go in the stand (my available space is about 32" x 12"W x 16" high) or possibly an Eshopp R100, or a Trigger Systems Crystal 30 Sump. I like the input flow channel of the Acqueon probably the best but at the LFS the acrylic material seemed a little flimsy to me. My aim is to set up a refugium style system with refugium mud, live rocks, chaeto macroalgae, along with a mini cleanup crew, and have the protein skimmer either housed in the first part or last part along with the return pump. I am not planning to use the UV filters at all (in case I do rotifers/copepods in the refugium) and have not decided yet on using the Eheim canister as a carbon only filter in stage 1 of the sump or not using that at all. As I keep my house at 74F, I was questioning whether or not I will even need a heater. I would rather not use one if possible. It is just one more thing that could crash my system.

I will put two powerheads into the DT and then do 2-3" of dry aragonite sand (probably the slightly thicker reef sand unless there is a problem with doing that) and then adding some live rock to it - maybe 100+ lbs of it depending on type (the LFS has "pukani, tonga branch, fiji and marshall shelf"). I have not yet decided on the style of aquascape but that will come. I was planning to use to RO/DI for the water, mix the Instant Ocean (unless I should get Reef Crystal instead) to make the saltwater at 1.025, add the water to the tank and the live rock/sand and let it cycle for a bit before introducing light, then a fish or two, then inverts, then after some time down the line - some coral. I have a hydrometer and some ATI test kits and am planning to get some salifert test kits, a refractometer, and something to test the TDS levels of my tap and post filtered RO/DI water.

I would very much appreciate an opinion on optimal lighting for my system and any additional comments/feedback on my overall proposed design and setup - ways to improve or things to consider. Many thanks in advance.

 

[thegrun]

Well, it sounds like you've done a lot of research already. As far as lighting goes I am a fan of LED lighting. I do not get a much growth as I used to under metal halide/T-5 combination lighting, but the color is every bit as good or better. I no longer even own a chiller, eliminating the noise and energy consumption of the chiller alone is a good reason to go LED. I've seen most of the top end LED lights in person and in truth I do not see huge differences between them. I would recommend that whatever system you get has 3 watt emitters with Blue, Royal Blue, Deep Blue/UV, White, Red and Green emitters with each color independently controllable. A couple of other observations: I would get a heater (actually two each at half the total wattage you want so if one goes bad it is less likely to either overheat your tank or let your tank get too cold), with LED lighting mine does run in the winter. With sand either go 1"-2" or all the way to 4"-6". 3" of sand is kind of no man's land, you do not get the advantages of a deep sand bed which needs to be at least 4" deep, but it is deep enough to trap a lot of detritus. I would stay with the 1" to 2" of sand.

 

[jinks]

I would build the sump. Those pre made ones always seem way over priced and the are so easy. Glass holes has nice drilled over flow kits. Once you get over the fear of doing it. For a light I would get 2x 250 mh. If you house is at 74f it should not be a big heat prob if they are not in a hood. That's just preference though.

 

[Morbeus]

thegrun - thanks for the comments and suggestions. They are much appreciated. As far as the LED lights you were referring to in your post do you have some brands or an example or two that I can look into? Also, is there a watt per gallon recommendation or certain mix for a mixed cora type tank that should be a sort of rule of thumb? I do not want to go overboard but also want to make sure I am covered. In light of your comment on substrate I will dial down the sand to 1 inch + and will plan on investing in a couple heaters.

Jinks - thanks for the suggestion with the DIY sump and reference. I like the intensity of MH lamps but they are not as practical as they used to be unfortunately. With the low energy consumption of LEDs and the option of dimming them and the different spectrum intensities and mixing they seem to have the ability to make your tank look new by just changing up the lighting a bit and allows for greater realistic lighting cycles that more effectively replicate nature (dimming and sunset and sunrise settings) if that is what you are looking for. I still am undecided so far.

Anyone else? Regardless of innuendo from the name I don't bite...

 

[thegrun]

I personally went with the Aqua Illumination Vegas, but Maxspect and Kessel both make excellent lights. Assuming you have a standard 75 gallon tank (48" x 18" x 21" high) you are going to need two LED fixtures. Most of the top end LED lights are in the 60-100 watt range which would allow you to grow any type of coral you wish in a 75 gallon tank.