Ordered my RKL level 3 today!

[1DeR9_3Hy]

YAY! Just wanted to post up and hear from others, and see what others are doing with their RKL's.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

I got it yesterday!

Its almost completely hooked up, i just left my return plump plugged into the wall and the heater because i am getting "i temp error'...something i need to sort out.

So far its VERY easy to setup and program, very intuitive. Ive spent less than an hour, and I have:

programmed all 3 ballast for my display tank lighting
programmed my fuge light
programmed the fan to kick on @ 80.5 and off @79.5
Programmed the lights to kick off @ 81
Programmed the koralia to turn off when the display lights turn off

I have yet too:

Program the heater
calibrate the ph probe
calibtate the temp probe
and who knows what else i will be doing

Im waiting until i get back from vacation to order a float switch kit to setup my ATO.

Anyone else care to share some setup ideas?

 

[DaveMorris]

iTemp error simply means that you do not have a temp probe plugged into the bus connector. If you are using an SL1 for temp, look for that temp reading, not iTemp. Also, there is no need to calibrate the temp probe.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

Thanks....hmmm. I get a temp reading that is accurate, but i still see an i temp error in some menus.

My cooling fan keep kickin on and off, which means i need increase the hysteresis for that correct?

 

[DaveMorris]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15572515#post15572515 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 1DeR9_3Hy
Thanks....hmmm. I get a temp reading that is accurate, but i still see an i temp error in some menus.

It will always be there unless you plug a temp probe into the bus. It is the same temp probe as the one that came with your SL1, but the connector is different.

My cooling fan keep kickin on and off, which means i need increase the hysteresis for that correct?

That is correct. For a fan, I would do it at 1.0. Remember that whatever you set it for, it will be that number on both sides of your target temp.

 

[jjk_reef00]

My ph probe worked right out of the box, no need for calibrating it. I use a ph test kit every month to check the accuracy and it has been right on for 2-3 months now.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15576451#post15576451 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DaveMorris
It will always be there unless you plug a temp probe into the bus. It is the same temp probe as the one that came with your SL1, but the connector is different.



That is correct. For a fan, I would do it at 1.0. Remember that whatever you set it for, it will be that number on both sides of your target temp.

I got it figured out yesterday, i think lol. I have it set at 81 +/- 1, and my tank has not gone abouve 79.6...so i dont know if its working yet. Im leaving for a vacation in two days, so im thinking i should heat up a cup of water and test this out today...

Thanks for the info on the temp probe, i didnt think about it like that. Is their anyways to remove that from the menu?

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15577712#post15577712 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjk_reef00
My ph probe worked right out of the box, no need for calibrating it. I use a ph test kit every month to check the accuracy and it has been right on for 2-3 months now.

I borrowed a Hanna PH pen and it says the same thing as my Red Sea and Seachem ph test's. They all say 8.0-8.1, and the DA PH probe says 7.6.

I re-read the instructions and it says to adjust the ph according to which solution you use, then allow the 'raw' data to settle before hitting enter. How long does that take? Every time ive tried it, i let it settle (no number variation) for 1-2 minutes, then hit enter and it reverts back to the old ph calibration when im done. It wont hold onto the new calibration.

 

[DaveMorris]

I let mine settle for 5 to 10 minutes. It all depends on how much it is bouncing around. Also, keep in mind that the devices you borrowed all need to be calibrated as well. The test kits, especially the ones you mention can also be tough to read accurately. Try letting your ph probe have more time to settle. See if that helps. Also, make sure you are calibrating it with both solutions.

As far as the temp probe goes, no the iTemp error can not be removed from the menu. I would spend the money on an iTemp probe and have a redundant temp probe. It is an extremely cheap way to double-check your temp. That is also why DA designed it that way. It allows you to use two temp probes for any number of reasons in a very inexpensive manner.

 

[1DeR9_3Hy]

I have the I temp, what other probes would work with this?

Ill have to pick up more ph calibration fluid, i already opened both of mine. Ill give it a try when i get home from vacation. Thanks!

 

[addicted2reefin]

if i buy the rkl level one what temp probe comes with it? also if i buy an sl1 seperate do i get an extra temp probe?

 

[unbreakable]

addicted, the RKL1 comes with iTemp. If you buy the SL1 you need to get the temp probe for the sl1 which is 20 dollars, plus any other probes

RKL1 can monitor and control temperature and control 4 outlets right out of the box for $99