ozone

Thanks for your replies, insightful as always. There seems to be a growing trend of people believing they have magically fixed their marine whitespot problem. I've seen many people rush out to buy ozone based on the word from forums and most of the times, at the word of their local fish shop.

Do you have any info on the relationship between contact time and redox potential in antibacterial functions?
 
I was struggling to figure out how to set up an ozonator, but I'm almost there. I read article number 2 (equipment) which was helpful. I looked at the commercial reactor that you provided a link. Here are some things that are unclear.

1. I planned on using a Bulk Reef Supply carbon reactor before I was even thinking about ozone. I guess I can use the same carbon reactor for the water output of the ozone reactor, right? I mean, will the carbon be as effective with ozonated water running through it?

2. The "Marine Technical Concepts Ozone Reactor" says to use a pump capable of 100-500GPH at 5ft head. The eheim 1250 puts out about 135 gph at 5ft. head. The eheim 1260 puts out closer to 500gph at 5 ft head. How does one determine proper flow going through the reactor. I assume lower flow means longer contact time. A controller will turn the ozonator on and off according to ORP, so it sounds like the eheim 1250 at 135 gph is probably ideal, correct?

3. What about the air relief output on the ozone reactor; what kind of carbon reactor do I need to use for that. Will these bulk reef supply reactors (made for water) work for air passing through them?

4. Sounds like you fill up the ozone reactor with bio-balls. I always think of bio-balls being a nitrate trap. I'm assuming the reactor has so much ozone that these bio-balls are essentially sterile, correct?

5. Any maintenance on the bio-balls?

Thanks!
 
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Do you have any info on the relationship between contact time and redox potential in antibacterial functions?


Not beyond what is in the fistrst article here:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php#13

from it:

How much ozone, and for how long, is required to kill suspended organisms in seawater? In one study of a suspended dinoflagellate algae (Amphidinium sp. isolated from Australia's Great Barrier Reef), it was found that 5-11 ppm ozone for six hours of exposure was required to kill 99.99% of the organisms.37 While that kill rate is impressive, that exposure is far higher than is ever achieved in a reef aquarium application. Lower doses and shorter contact times had smaller effects. A dose of 2 ppm and a short contact time (with the time not stated in the paper) showed a reduction in bacteria of abut 98% (which is still quite significant, but would not be referred to as disinfection).

Similar results were found for the spores of the bacterium Bacillus subtilis.38 In this case, doses of 14 ppm ozone for 24 hours were required to kill 99.99 percent of the spores. In another study 99.9% of fecal coliforms, fecal streptococci and total coliforms were killed with 10 ppm ozone and a contact time of 10 minutes.39 The exposure of Vibrio species and Fusarium solani (bacteria that are pathogenic to shrimp) to 3 ppm ozone for five minutes killed 99.9% of the bacteria.40 Water from a seawater swimming pool was effectively sterilized using 0.5-1.0 ppm ozone in a contact tower.41

The data for the disinfection of freshwater systems are much more extensive, and so include more data at lower contact times and concentrations. In one experiment at a Rainbow trout hatchery, the addition of 1-1.3 ppm of ozone with a contact time of 35 seconds reduced heterotrophic bacteria in the aquarium water itself by about 40-90%.42

Does the ozone used in a typical reef aquarium application reduce bacteria? Maybe, but certainly not to the extent required for disinfection. Still, a reduction of 50% of the living bacteria could have significant effects. The above study in the trout hatchery showed that the use of ozone at several times the typical reef aquarium rate and for about five to ten times the typical contact time results in such a drop. While the data are unavailable, I expect that the bacteria in the water exiting a normal reef aquarium's ozone application are not decreased by as much as 50%.
 
I planned on using a Bulk Reef Supply carbon reactor before I was even thinking about ozone. I guess I can use the same carbon reactor for the water output of the ozone reactor, right? I mean, will the carbon be as effective with ozonated water running through it?

Maybe. The intended applications are different, but it may work OK. My concern is OPO's getting through such a reactor, while in use to bind organics that is not a concern since you can get multiple passes to remove organics.

I'm assuming the reactor has so much ozone that these bio-balls are essentially sterile, correct?

Yes that is true. You may get CaCO3 deposits on them, but that's not a big deal.

I've not used the MTC reactor, so I cannot really say what pump works well. I'm happy with my tubing reactor and do not r3eally see a need to spend more.
 
To you guys on the fence about whether to try the Ozone, you will love how vibrant it makes your tank look. You'll never want to go back to yellow water.

Once you see in person what it does to the vibrance of a fish tank, you'll be the envy of all your friends, all you're dreams will come true, hair algae will vanish overnight, polyp extension, six line wrasse will quit harassing the other fish, anemone will never move, sally lightfoot crab will learn to be more of a team player.
 

Does the ozone used in a typical reef aquarium application reduce bacteria? Maybe, but certainly not to the extent required for disinfection. Still, a reduction of 50% of the living bacteria could have significant effects. The above study in the trout hatchery showed that the use of ozone at several times the typical reef aquarium rate and for about five to ten times the typical contact time results in such a drop. While the data are unavailable, I expect that the bacteria in the water exiting a normal reef aquarium's ozone application are not decreased by as much as 50%.


I dose vodka and biodigest. Do you think ozone would be counterproductive?
 
I dose vodka and biodigest. Do you think ozone would be counterproductive?

Not necessarily. Even if the ozone killed bacteria passing through it, most of the bacterial growth is on surfaces. :)
 
Thanks Randy. I used ozone briefly before dosing vodka. Loved the clarity of the water and was thinking of using it again when I setup my new tank.
 
Once you see in person what it does to the vibrance of a fish tank, you'll be the envy of all your friends, all you're dreams will come true, hair algae will vanish overnight, polyp extension, six line wrasse will quit harassing the other fish, anemone will never move, sally lightfoot crab will learn to be more of a team player.

:lol: That was great..

What I will say, is that when carbon dosing (vodka - which I do), there has been some note of yellowing water over time.. Ozone can certainly help with this.. Although I'm recently retuning to the hobby, after a 3 year break, my ozonizer was one of the first pieces of equipment I dusted off right behind my skimmer which I use to introduce it into my tank.. Just a couple of weeks ago, my ozonizer stopped producing Ozone and over the course of the next few days, you could see a noticeable difference in the degrading clarity of the tank (I do monthly water changes; sometime more and I am very much into the maintenance of my tank). As for ich, it popped up in my tank on the more sensitive new fish while injecting ozone, but never really took off like it did prior to using it.

I have no scientific data to back this up, just what my eyes see and after being in this hobby for a while, your eyes will tell you a lot. if you decide to purchase an ozonizer, just make sure it is a decent one that will last. Make sure to do what is necessary to protect you environment like other have stated (very simple to do)... My Red Sea is a POS with no real support behind it.. I recently ordered and Ozotech, which I understand is a much more solid unit and can be run without an air dryer. However, it does require you to clean the cells every 6-8 months if you run it without a dryer.
 
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