Hi my name is Garrett Kimble and I am new to the forums. I am also new to nano reef keeping. I have a 12 gallon aquapod and am planning to host a reef/fish tank. Right no my tank is cycling at 1.022 80 F and a ph of 7.8. I feel that the ph is a little low and I think it should be in the 8.2 8.3 range. The tank has been running for 3 days and has 12 lbs of live orock in it. Is this ph ok for the live rock? Should I raise it? If so what chemicals do you guys or gals suggest? I am very excited about this whouls saltwater deal. I have owned all sorts of cichlids for 4 years. Also what is a cooler fish: a 6 line or a yellow watchmen with a pistol shrimp?
PH question
- Thread starter gkimble
- Start date
drummereef
Team RC
Your pH will fluxuate during the different light cycles. Your pH will be the highest just before the lights go out at night and the lowest right before the light come on in the morning. CO2 buildup in you house can lead to a depressed pH. Opening the windows and letting some fresh air in will help. I wouldn't dose any pH buffers to raise the pH. Just keep you alkalinity between 8-11 dkh and the pH should take care of itself.
The temp is ok. More important are temp fluxuations. Try to not have more than 2 degrees of fluxuation between day and night.
Just remember to not dose anything before properly testing. Good quality testkits are a must. Salifert is a good brand.
The temp is ok. More important are temp fluxuations. Try to not have more than 2 degrees of fluxuation between day and night.
Just remember to not dose anything before properly testing. Good quality testkits are a must. Salifert is a good brand.
Thanks for the answers. So i need to get that sg up? Ok Don't worry about the ph. I f I add more salt to raise the sg teh ph should rise as well. So that takes care of that mess.
Oh and I tested for my amonia, nitrates, and nitrites. Last night and all read 0. Must have been teh live sand and rock. Does that sound right or is that to easy?
When should I start performing water changes. There are no fish, corals, or other invertabres in there?
Thanks aagain.
Oh and I tested for my amonia, nitrates, and nitrites. Last night and all read 0. Must have been teh live sand and rock. Does that sound right or is that to easy?
When should I start performing water changes. There are no fish, corals, or other invertabres in there?
Thanks aagain.
All Delight
New member
I would raise your PH to at least 8.0. You can use a PH buffer. Thats what I do.
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KM3153
http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=KM3153
Don't touch the PH with buffer or anything yet.
First get your specific gravity up to 1.025 or 1.026. You can do this by replacing your evaporated water with pre-mixed salt water (like you would use for a water change).
Once you have the right amount of "chemicals" in the tank by way of your specific gravity then you alk and PH might be in a better place.
Tackle one thing at a time right now. Once your SG is at the above levels you next want to check your alkalinity and your calcium levels. You want your alkalinity to be between 8-12 dkh. You want your calcium to be in the range of 380 to 420.
Once you have those at the proper level then check PH. It's "bad" to dose "PH buffers/ups/downs" only based on PH. PH is tightly tied to the alkalinity and calcium (as well as other elements) levels in your tank as well as oxygen. Normally when you get the alkalinity and calcium in the right range your PH will follow.
Get those under control and then if you still have a PH problem come back and post with your test results.
BTW, you don't have to purchase a specific product made to work on PH from an aquarium store. You can buy everything you need at the local grocery store for this but let's get those test results first.
First get your specific gravity up to 1.025 or 1.026. You can do this by replacing your evaporated water with pre-mixed salt water (like you would use for a water change).
Once you have the right amount of "chemicals" in the tank by way of your specific gravity then you alk and PH might be in a better place.
Tackle one thing at a time right now. Once your SG is at the above levels you next want to check your alkalinity and your calcium levels. You want your alkalinity to be between 8-12 dkh. You want your calcium to be in the range of 380 to 420.
Once you have those at the proper level then check PH. It's "bad" to dose "PH buffers/ups/downs" only based on PH. PH is tightly tied to the alkalinity and calcium (as well as other elements) levels in your tank as well as oxygen. Normally when you get the alkalinity and calcium in the right range your PH will follow.
Get those under control and then if you still have a PH problem come back and post with your test results.
BTW, you don't have to purchase a specific product made to work on PH from an aquarium store. You can buy everything you need at the local grocery store for this but let's get those test results first.
drummereef
Team RC
Can you get a pic?
UM yeah I got I did a testing today on amonia, nitrate, nitrite and after teh 3rd day my amonia has sky rocketed to 8.0!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah wow. nitrires and nitrates are aroun the .25 range. I figured this cycle would begin around the third day. Is that ammonia to high or is that normal
