phosban reactor

check out http://www.melevsreef.com/ He's used up to three to reduce his PO4 down to zero after a bought with algae.

I've got one and I just put a small powerhead in the sump to the reactor with the flow valve on the outlet turing flow down to just a small amount of flow. Flow should be adjusted such that the media beads should just be dancing slightly on the media surface indicating fluidization. I've got a two little fishes type that can hang on the side of a tank or better yet a sump. I just have the rx's return going back into the sump.

However, I use mine to reduce my phosphates. Algae growth is necessary and encouraged by phosphate presence but I personally can't say if that will significantly help with your brown algae problem. Brown algae may be a diatom situation which thrive on silicates. First thing to consider is where did your phosphates come from? Can that be controlled first?

If not then, Yourreef has a great price on reactors by the way.

Good Luck,

Chris
 
The key with these is to start using them from the get-go. If you start after your system has been running for some time and you have built up phosphates, you must test the effluent water constantly unil the phosphates get to zero. During this time you may need to change the media several times until no phosphate is left in your system. Once the reactor has caught up, and the phosphates are gone, they work GREAT!

Now if you are just trying to reduce the phosphates, then just slap it on and plug it in. But this will not eliminate your problem entirely if phospahtes are whats causeing your troubles.

One more thing, phosban is "okay" but if you want the job done right, use RowaPhos.

Jim
 
Yeah thanks Jim, I'm using RowaPhos as well. I just bought some new media yesterday and I plan to put it in today. I love it!
 
I set mine up about 2 weeks ago. I can sort of notice a reduction in some of the hair algae, etc. I think its like Jim said - start before you have a problem for best results.
 
Jim is correct. To truly remove hair algae, you need to starve your tank. Otherwise, it will just survive and never go away. You also need to watch Nitrates. Hair Algae will survive on nitrates as well.

ROWAphos will remove both phosphates and Silicates. Using it from the start will help prevent the build up of phosphates in your system. If you use a test kit like the Merck, Your reef has them, you can test and see the phosphate level go down and then back up. This is due to the phosphates being removed from the water, but then phosphates will each out of the rock and sand.
 
I have a problem with phosphate removal products in general, sorry Bruce. I don't question that removing phosphate stops algae growth. Nor do I question that iron based products, like ROWAphos, are supperior to aluminium based products. My problem is with the phosphate removal as a whole.

Algae binds phosphorous (P) in a 1:16 ratio with nitrogen (N). If you remove enough P to limit algae growth then you've eliminated your simplest mechanism for removing N. Short of a Nitrate reactor, I'm not sure how you'd get the Nitrate out if you remove the phosphate.
 
From what I have read (and I could be way off), chateomorpha excells in nitate removal while it does not do so much for phosphates.

So, if you are removing the phosphates with Rowa, you can let your chateo do the rest.

Also, IMO/IME, the best nitrate removal is prevention. What I mean is, remove the DOC's before they can enter the nitrogen cycle with a big powerful skimmer fed from your drain.

Cheers,

Jim
 
I'm pretty sure all algae removes phosporous and nitrogen in the same ratios. This is a hard and fast rule in biology. The biologists even have a name for the ratio. Can't remember it off hand.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7803363#post7803363 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brian Prestwood
I'm pretty sure all algae removes phosporous and nitrogen in the same ratios. This is a hard and fast rule in biology. The biologists even have a name for the ratio. Can't remember it off hand.

The Redfield ratio. I don't think most people rely on algae for nitrate removal though. But I would agree that if you have a lot of macro in your tank or a refugium it is something to consider and keep an eye on.
 
I've always thought the best nitrate removal was dilution via water changes. Of course Macro algae is a way to help keep it in check as well as others but nothing helps a tank's health like good old fashioned water changes.

Tested Phosphate yesterday at 0.05-0.07 they yellowish green is difficult to tell. Yeah!
 
This is a C&P from Wikipedia

Redfield described the remarkable congruence between the chemistry of the deep ocean and the chemistry of living things in the surface ocean. Both have N:P ratios of about 16 (atoms to atoms). When nutrients are not limiting, the molar element ratio C:N:P in most phytoplankton is 106:16:1. Redfield thought it wasn't purely coincidental that the vast oceans would have a chemistry perfectly suited to the requirements of living organisms. He considered how the cycles of not just N and P but also C and O could interact to result in this match.

This is why I always try to incorporate a refugium in all my systems.

Brian, I am not recommending 100% removal of phosphate from your aquarium. Not sure that is possible if you are doing a great job of feeding. ROWAphos is meant as a control agent. We just want to keep Phosphate at a manageable level so algae does not take over your aquarium.
 
Brent

"I don't think most people rely on algae for nitrate removal though."

Perhaps I'm a bit out of touch. I thought remote DSBs and macro algae (chaeto/gracilaria) filters are the preferred methods. Am I wrong?
 
What I did for my reator was I bought two of these gravel cleaners. I took the flanged end off of one and replaced it with the blue endcap (after removeing directional valve) from the other one. After some heating of the tubing I was able to put it over the output from a rio 90. I put a couple of 1" pieces of foam inside the tube at both ends, and the media in the middle. You can back the flow down on the rio so that the media just dances...and wallaaa..reactor for about $10 (I already had the rio)
LE11556.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7804261#post7804261 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brian Prestwood
Brent

"I don't think most people rely on algae for nitrate removal though."

Perhaps I'm a bit out of touch. I thought remote DSBs and macro algae (chaeto/gracilaria) filters are the preferred methods. Am I wrong?

When did I mention DSBs? So you would recommend using macro algae as the only source of biological filtration in an aquarium?
 
Bruce

I think there is a good arguement for using phosphate sponges when nitrogen becomes a limiting factor to macro algae filter removal and regular water changes don't control the phosphate.

Of course, I'd have to ask myself where all the phosphorous is coming from and address the cause.

Here's a scenario...

A closed system with no P:N input from the top off/exchange water or GAC. All food consists of pure marine organisms (1:16 ratio). Filters consists of: Protien Skimmer, DSB and macro algae filter.

Why does the tank have high phosphates? Could it be that the DSB is exporting nitrogen (nitrous oxide) but not phosporous?
 
Brent

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7804630#post7804630 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brentp
When did I mention DSBs?

When did I say you mentioned DSBs? :)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7804630#post7804630 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by brentp
So you would recommend using macro algae as the only source of biological filtration in an aquarium?

No, I wouldn't recommend using macro algae as the only nutrient export.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7804726#post7804726 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Brian Prestwood



When did I say you mentioned DSBs? :)

Perhaps I'm a bit out of touch. I thought remote DSBs and macro algae (chaeto/gracilaria) filters are the preferred methods. Am I wrong?



Maybe I misunderstood what you meant?:D
 
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