Planning BTA/GSM Species Tank

gibbous

New member
The other night, completely unprovoked, my wife said the 5 favorite words of every tankless reefer- "œWe should get fish again""¦ Of course I said I thought this was a fantastic idea, but had to admit that I had already been planning a tank for a while. And that I was comparing powerhead specs on my tablet when she brought it up"¦

I was hoping to get some input on that plan, which is to run a BTA & GSM clown species tank. I've kept BTA's in past tanks with varying degrees of success, but have learned a lot along the way and want another try at keeping two of my favorite SW species. I'd like to keep the tank as far toward the simple and low maintenance end of the spectrum as possible, at least within reason. Here are the factors that I am weighing as high priorities to get sorted, thoughts on any of them would be appreciated-

Stocking plan-
Essentially a pair of gold stripe maroons and every interesting BTA I can get my hands on. Other fish and inverts would be kept to a minimum in an effort to maintain water quality, and because I'd like the BTA's to be the main focus of the tank.

The tank itself-
The space is along a wall in the living room and would be good for something as big as a standard 55. However lately I've been thinking that the 55 is too tall, and that something like a 40 breeder or 40 long (current favorite) would be easier to light and look better in the room. The sump and an ATO reservoir need to fit in the stand and everything will need to be well laid out to avoid the clutter that usually develops under my tanks.

Rock-
I want use nothing but artificial base rock to build the structure mostly because I'd like to limit the amount of nuisance things that can come along with live rock, but also because I'd have time to shape the rock & scape how I wanted it. I know BTA's like crevices to hide their foot and of course the more surface area the better, does anyone know if one supplier or another might be better for this? Also I plan on cooking it for a while to make sure it's nice and clean, but would prefer not to have to deal with rock that is leaching something into the water or otherwise takes an extended period of time just to get ready to go in the tank.

Flow-
I'm all over the place on this one. I know BTA's don't need the turbulence that other species demand, but I'd still like to be able to produce a variable flow that reaches into all the dark corners of the tank.
Option 1- Closed loop possibly powered by a Vectra M1. More holes in the structure of the tank which could be bad, but less ugly stuff in the display which I know is good. Intake locations would have to be in a spot that would minimize the chances of contact with a wandering nem, but also still have access for maintenance. Less efficient than powerheads less flexible, etc. At least the Vectra could give me a more dynamic flow than just switching a standard pump on and off.
Option 2- Suck it up and put powerheads in the tank. Better flow but presumably a higher chance of anemone soup along with more visible equipment in the tank. I had mp10's in an older tank and wasn't thrilled with them. Noisy, finicky, and even though the motor and cord aren't actually in the tank they aren't really hidden either. Gyre? Not sure it would be the right thing for a long, shallow tank though I like it in principle.
Option 3- Figure out a way to push enough water through the overflow & sump to avoid either of the above and just run a single return pump to multiple nozzles. High volume overflows are fine, but I don't know how well it would work with a varying flow rate. Sump would have to be well designed to handle a large volume in that small a space without a lot of noise.



Those are the big ones for me right now. I've still got things to work out in the lighting and filtration categories, but I figure those can wait until I've got a better idea on these. Appreciate the help.
 
Seeking inspiration I went down to what seems to be the only decent LFS in my area hoping to see some nice specimens of one or the other, but was pleasantly surprised to find this in one of their display tanks. I take this as a sign from Neptune that I am doing the right thing.
 

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Wow nice nem I never see bubbles like that near me and I think a closed system is best for nems I like the layout of the Red Sea max with the skimmer attachment I currently have 6 bubble tips and a mag in there one of the bubbles already split that I just got from reefapalooza a nice rainbow with purple tips so the system must be working only other flow besides the main two pumps is a small Rena canister filter because I don't like to put the filters in the back of the tank because it annoying to get to them to clean them also can get clogged and trigger the auto fill and change the salinity


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Wow nice nem I never see bubbles like that near me

I don't see them much either, this place had 3 about that size that apparently had been in their system for years. One of those things that they would sell someone, but not for a price anybody with a brain would pay. I think I'm going to be looking mostly private party once I start stocking.

and I think a closed system is best for nems I like the layout of the Red Sea max

I can see why you like it, your success with that tank is part of what is making me want to try to just push everything through a big overflow and run multiple returns from the sump. Can't get much cleaner than that, but don't know how easy it would be to get around 800gph through quietly, especially if the volume going through it was not consistent. It seems like the overlow designs like the BeanAnimal rely on fine tuning for one constant flow rate but that's not really what I want for this tank. A CL solves that problem, but if I go with the Vectra it would come out at a price more than double what I would pay for a single Gyre. I'm not scared to spend the money if it's the right thing, but there is going to have to be a compromise somewhere and I can't decide where it should be...
 
Matrix or Sipromax in a canister filter at a ratio of 1 liter per 10 gallons of tank water will provide your biological filtration. I don't use a skimmer, or sump for my 40g BTA tank, but I do change carbon monthly and do 4 gallon weekly waterchanges. I rinse the matrix with old tank water every 2weeks and this maintenance method is simple and very effective at keeping nitrates between 5-10, and phosphates very low.

You could start a canister filter with matrix now and seed it with some bottled bacteria in a 5 gallon bucket. Then when your tank is setup and ready just move the canister filter to the tank and start adding BTAs. You probably already know that it will take 6-8 weeks to get a good de-nitrifying bacteria culture established.
 
Matrix or Sipromax in a canister filter... I don't use a skimmer, or sump for my 40g BTA tank

I was also thinking about going without a skimmer but not sure I want to be without a sump. Was considering filling empty sump space with something like marinepure blocks but that looks like good media as well.

Have any pictures of your tank?

You could start a canister filter with matrix now and seed it with some bottled bacteria in a 5 gallon bucket.

Great idea. I don't know if I'll do a canister filter but getting a bacteria colony started early sounds like a winner. I'm probably also going to go with no sand bed so I need to build up my biofilter surface area, a good chunk of whatever media in a bucket with a powerhead and ammonia dosing should do it right? What is everyone using for bacterial starters these days?
 
Everyone looks happy.

Can I ask what kind of lighting you're using? I was going to save lighting questions for a later discussion but since you've got a similar tank already going...
 
I have an AI prime on half the tank, and a CBB (mars Aqua 160W) on the other half. I am still acclimating the nems. to the 160W led and only have it set to about 35% blue and 25% whites/red/green. I will be getting another 160W soon, and use the prime over a quarantine tank.
 
I have an AI prime on half the tank, and a CBB (mars Aqua 160W) on the other half.... I am still acclimating the nems. to the 160W led.

The AI prime would be on my short list if I decided to go LED. Did the Mars unit suit the tank better or did you just need something to light the frags?

Different subject maybe but do you go through a light acclimation precess every time a new BTA is added as Well? Is it worth it to quarantine or treat them with anything as a safeguard?
 
The mars LED is a good light as far as I can tell, but I have only had it for a short time.

The Prime LED is way more controllable as far as spectrum and intensity, so, I plan to use it to acclimate nems. that I get from tanks that were under T5 or MH to LED light.

Some BTAs that are available to purchase these days are really small (I have 2 that are the size of a nickel), and i think a quarantine/grow-out/ acclimation tank would be good for them for a few months before being "loved to death" by the Maroons.
 
Anyone have an opinion on the Current Orbit LED lighting systems for nems? We relocated our 28 gallon and I want to go this same route (clowns/anems) but only have 1 strip on it. Thinking of adding a second one. Thoughts?
 
What are you keeping under the single strip now, and how is it doing? BTA's are similar to LPS in their light requirements as I understand it.
 
Though you also need to consider what type of clowns you want to keep, and that in order to give you the best chances of host behavior it helps to keep the type of anemone that naturally hosts your preferred clown in the wild.

One pair of Perc's may host a BTA, others hold out for the magnifica or gigantea that they would naturally be found in.

That being said, and I could be wrong, but I don't think I would try to keep a mag or gig under those LED's.
 
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