PLEASE HELP: new & unusual PH problem

[cryptodendrum]

I don't believe this - if there's even the most remote chance, tragedy will find it's way.

I know better than to stand over an open tank with something like this - but even still, an open bottle of PH calibration fluid found its way into my tank.

A bottle of PH 7.0 calibration fluid got knocked (by another falling object) across my work space and into my refuge. The bottle lid was open, but only about 10-20 milliliters I suspect actually spilled out into the water - there wasn't much left to begin with, and the dive I made into the refuge after the flying bottle was rather immediate - I caught it just as it splashed onto the surface of the refuge water. But I saw green fluid fly out of the bottle and into the water, so I know I wasn't completely lucky.

Does anyone know what PH 7.0 calibration fluid is typically made of? Most I've seen are always green, regardless of brand. Is it bad for my tank? In what amounts?

Do I need to start rigourous water changes?

My system is at least 550 liters (about 150 gallons) of water in the current config.

Anyone have any advice what action I should start? if any?

 

[cryptodendrum]

PS: it's been about 15 minutes now, and noone in the tank seems to be reacting negatively just yet.

I'm still preparing a new batch (168 liters) of water just in case.

 

[Ibwrasstaman]

I wouldn't worry about color, but rather what salts were used to adjust the pH.
Distilled water has a pH of 7.0!
Bottom line, a small amount of pH 7.0 should not hurt anything.
Wrassta

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Most pH 7 fluids are phosphate. It is not going to cause any instant toxicity, but you should measure phosphate to see if that is the concern, and how bad it is.

These articles have more:

Phosphorus: Algaeââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s Best Friend
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm

Iron Oxide Hydroxide (GFO) Phosphate Binders
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.htm

 

[morielli]

Stay calm! As has been noted, most pH standards are phosphate salts. You'll probably do more damage than good by going nuts and changing a bunch of things. Frankly, 20 mls in 150 gals probably isn't enough to elevate phosphate beyond what your tank can metabolize in a day or so. I doubt they make those standards any more concentrated than they have to be. Probably no more than a few milimolar. The effect of such a weak solution on a tank your size would be pretty much zero. And if it is up a tiny bit, which I really doubt, so what! It takes time for phosphate to do its thing. I would just temporarily add a bag of phosphate absorbing resin to the filter or sump to get rid of it. Good luck!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Typical buffers might be 0.05 M phosphate,which is about 5,000 ppm. So if you diluted 10 mL into 150 gallons, that's about 0.01 ppm. So I agree that it is a small addition.

 

[cryptodendrum]

Thanks for the feedback morielli, Ibwrasstaman & Randy!

It would seem that 24 hours later, and I've still yet to witness any ill effects.

I already had an auto-doser rigged to change about 10.7 liters a day (15% a week) which I left running - but I choose not to perform any large water changes, based on my own observation of no ill-effects, and the feedback I got.

I also appreciated that info what is in these calibration fluids - had no idea phosphate salts were used - good to know.

I'll check Phosphates, even if just out of curiosity, and will report back what I find.

Cheers!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

You're welcome.

Happy Reefing.

 

[cryptodendrum]

Just to follow up, PO4 tested in the "not-detectable" region, using a Sera-branded PO4 test. Everything still looks excellent!

thanks again

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

:thumbsup:



Happy Reefing.