Plumbing/check valve ?

[LUCASM3]

Can I use a 1.5 inch check valve on my Dart return pump? Im plumbing 1.5 inch all the way to the return hole in the tank then splitting to two 3/4 inch lines. How will this affect flow/head pressure? A Dart is not a high pressure pump so will it be strong enough to over come the spring in the check valve without impeding flow to much?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Anthony Calfo]

depends on the type of valve... all will add some friction/loss... and none are actually foolproof in seawater over time (mineral deposits, etc). I'd strongly suggest you (always) avoid plumbing any sump pump or the like in such a way that requires a check valve. That's just asking for failure in time

Redesign, bro

 

[Bemmer]

Anthony,
I am also in the process of setting up my sump plumbing for my new tank. I was told that having a check valve after the pump to the return pipe is a good idea to prevent backflow to the pump. I recently purchased an angle seat check valve. It is interesting to read that you do not think they are required, as a precautionary measure. Does it reduce the water flow that much??

So, is a union ball valve enough between the pump and the return connection to the seaswirl?

 

[prezioso73]

I used a check valve in my old set up...Let me save you some time.

It worked a little but the spring was noisy and having a spring made me nervious.

THe solution is simple; I am assuming that you have a sump and you need a ball valve because your pump is not self priming?

If so, do this. Plumb your pump so that it is below the water level in your sump. Then if the power goes out water will stay in the pump, when it comes back on it should start right up.

Hope this is what you are looking for...

 

[FISHMAN350]

you could use flapper checks instead of spring checks.custom aquatics sells clear ones so you can physically see if they are working correctly.they restrict much less water than spring types.good plumbing