Protein Skimmer Question

S

spencermoose

New member
Does anyone know if a skimmer can be too big for a tank? I am currently running a 30 gal and am going to be getting a 75 going (likely within the next 6 months to year). When I get the 75 going I would like to use the 30 for a fuge/sump. I have decided that I want to go with a remora skimmer. I was thinking about going with a remora pro and using it on my 30 for the time being and then incorporating it on the sump when I get the 75 up.

The main concern is that the remora pro is rated for 40g+ tanks and I have the 30... is this too much?
 
I think it will be fine. I think in general you can't have too big of a skimmer for a tank, the worst that will happen is that you would be wasting skimmer capability, if that makes sense.

A way too large skimmer will still remove the dissolved organics from a small tank, but it would be capable of removing much more than are in there. (Just my intuition, not known for a 100% fact).

Especially for your case, since you are planning on upgrading in the future, its a good idea to go ahead and get the larger skimmer. I suggest in general to get a skimmer rated for tanks larger than what you have, since a skimmer is such an important piece of equipment in a saltwater tank. For example, I've got a 90 gallon tank, with a skimmer rated for tanks up to 180 gallons.

You said you're getting a 75 gallon tank, with a skimmer rated for 40+ gallons... what is the max tank size of that skimmer? If its near 75, if you've got the coin you might consider getting and even larger one... its not necessary, just food for thought.
 
The remora pro is rated for tank size 40-120... that is why I was trying to think ahead for the 75 as well. Do you know if the size rating is based on total volume or just the display? So if I have a 75 display and a 30 sump, that gives me 105 volume... or is it just the display that they are basing tank size on?

I have seen rants and raves about remora skimmers and have been doing some homework on the different skimmers, but if you have one that works great for you, that does not hit the pocket that deep let me know! It would give me more playing money! ha ha :)
 
I think you're good then. I'm a big fan of Aqua-C skimmers (mine is an Aqua-C EV-180), and I've also heard good things about the Remora series.

I think it should be rated for overall water volume, including display + sump, but also remember that a 75 gallon tank won't hold a full 75 gallons when you consider the volume used up by sand and rocks. In my 90, I've got about 150lbs of rock and a 4" sandbed, and if I take 50 gallons out of the display, there's not a lot of water left in there (I only did that once, surprised by how much it actually drained the tank! :eek1: ). Also, the sump might be a 30 gallon tank, but it won't be full either, probably more like half-full to two-thirds.

I think the max size of 120 is sized nicely for your 105 (minus some) gallon system. I forgot to add that a lightly-stocked 100 gallon system won't have as much skimmate as a very heavily stocked and fed 40 gallon system. So it's the size of the system, as well as the bio-load and feeding frequency.

I bet what you'll see when you are running the Remora on your 30 gallon initially, is that it takes a while to build stuff up in the collection cup. That doesn't mean it's not working well, just that the skimmer is sized for removing waste from a larger system or a heavily-stocked smaller system. Once it's running on the larger system, the collection cup will fill up much faster compared to how it was before!
 
Thanks! :rollface:

As you mention the rock and sand in there, I think to myself "duh" ha ha.

I appreciate the input... There are other questions pertaining to the setup of the sump/fuge among others that I am toying with, but I guess that will have to be a new thread right? :D

I am having a blast getting to know all the great stuff about my new very addictive hobby!
 
hey no problem, this hobby is absolutely addicting! prepare to say goodbye to all of your extra spending money haha :D

feel free to ask any questions you want, I'm happy to help as much as I can, and I'm sure others on here will pitch in as well. take it easy!
 
+1 on "I think in general you can't have too big of a skimmer for a tank" With that being said it depends on what your trying to accomplish, Your bio load, fish only tank, Sps tank. you can over skim a tank and strip out all of the nutrients. That would be bad especially if you are keeping like a softie reef.
So what does your bio load look like? What kind of tank are you going to keep? In my experience, you can never buy too big of a skimmer. I also think you need to consider if it is just going to be hanging on the back, or down in a sump. If it is a sump you can adjust a number of times you turn your tank over.

I think if you put a little more info out there you will get alot more input back.

depends on the budget ---------->
as fare as the remora skimmer I say go with an AquaC EV Series Protein Skimmers (same Mang.) or Precision Marine Bullet 1 Protein Skimmerits more versital i just pick up an AEtech ETSS 600 XR
http://www.superskimmer.com/index.htm
"very nice"
 
Here is what I have in the 30 right now:

2 maroon clowns, lawnmower blenny, zebra damsel, coral banded shrimp, several different types of snails and a newly aquired bubble tip anemone.

corals so far: 2 different types of zoas, mushroom, leather, xenia, and frogspawn... the corals are all frags, with the zoas growing like weeds (the frogspawn is on its own side of the tank due to the sweeper tentacles I have read about, which I have not seen yet?).

All water parameters are in check and the tank is looking great, although I do have a brown diatom and green hair algae growth. I have recently cut back on my lights with the halide on for 6 hours and actinics on for 8. Also just added a koralia 2 for increased flow... which I will be put in the 75.

When I get the 75 up and going I am thinking about adding:
hippo tang and some chromis as far as fish go (I would love to have a trigger or lionfish but know they wont mesh with the current livestock, so that will have to be another tank I guess! :lol: ), otherwise I want to play around with different corals... definately have a zoa garden (I love them!).
 
that sounds like a pretty cool tank. As far as the algae growth, how long has the tank been set up? If it's fairly new, then the diatom bloom and hair algae is normal, all new tanks go through a couple of different phases of algae growth over the first 6 months or so. Diatoms in particular will grow where there is low flow, so adding the powerhead should help with that. Try to eliminate dead spots (areas of little to no water flow) so that waste can't settle, and is kept in the water column where it will be removed by the protein skimmer. Once you go to the 75, you'll probably want to get more flow (maybe you already have more, but you only mentioned a single K-2), especially since you are keeping corals. I've got two Koralia K4's in my 90, and I would like a little more.

As far as your fish go, you are correct about the trigger and lionfish. As cool as those guys are, they will eat the other fish and inverts in the tank. I'm pretty sure Triggers and Lionfish need to be kept in a fish-only tank. The Hippo Tang in your 75 might be pushing it, but it will definitely be fine for a while. 55, 75, and 90 gallon tanks are 4' long, which isn't a lot of room for a fish that loves to swim. Tangs can grow really large, but it will take a year or more for them to get up to size.
 
Thanks for all the great advice!

The tank is a little over 6 months old now, but about a month and a half ago I updated the lighting (as I wanted to add the corals). So have a 250w halide with 2 65w pc actinics and 4 dual leds. The algae was very limited before the lighting change, something that the snails were able to handle. But now I find myself adding more snails to help keep the algae under control... but it does not seem to be enough. Hence the reason why I have cut down on the time lights are on as well as the addition of flow. I am thinking that adding a skimmer will also help with some of the algae growth too?
 
adding the skimmer may help some, I'd need to know your nitrates reading to really tell. Having a 250 MH and two 65W actinics over a 30 gallon tank is a lot! Are you keeping (or planning on keeping) SPS corals?

Another thing that might help keep nuisance algae at bay, will be to use some kind of phosphate absorbing material in a media reactor (basically a tube filled with PhosBan or some other phosphate removing media, with water pumped through it). If you're using RO/DI water for your water changes and top-offs, phosphates can still get into the tank from frozen foods... the water that the food is frozen in can be very high in phosphates. Also, its possible that as waste and other organics break down in the tank, the turn into phosphates as well as nitrates. Phosphates can sometimes be tricky to test for, as a test kit might show a reading of '0', but it will be because the algae in the tank is consuming it as it is generated/added.

Anyways, its pretty much a guarantee that algae grows from a combination of nitrates or phosphates, and good light. You've definitely got some bright lighting over that tank, so to keep nuisance algae in check you're going to need to keep the nitrates and phosphates minimized. Protein skimmer will help keep the nitrates low, and a Phosphate reactor will help keep the phosphates at zero. Just do a google search for PhosBan reactor or phosphate reactor, you'll find plenty of products as well as DIY instructions if you want to make your own. Good luck!
 
That is a huge amount of light over a 30! I'd start a GFO reactor asap to suck up any loose phosphates the algaes haven't already eaten. You'll also have to light-acclimate some corals I'd think.
 
It is quite a bit of light... I was also worried that it may be bleaching or harming the corals in the tank, but they seem to be doing extremely well, especially the zoas. It was actually a good price on a hood that was rated for a 30 that I got off ebay (was going to build my own, but this worked out to be cheaper with less hassle and I am extremely satisfied). Do you guys think that I may be able to use this hood (or parts of it) on my 75? I was actually thinking about building a moving part that would turn on the halide and slowly move it from the right (or left) side of the tank over the period of time that I have the lights on to simulate day time intervals in the tank (ie: start on the left and 6-8 hours later would be on the right and the lights turn off)... any comments on this?

Since I have the day off tomorrow, looks like I will be going out to see if there is a reactor at SWR or Clarks. Ill also see if there is a DIY one on here since I am pretty handy when it comes to building things.

Also how about UV reactors... I think I have read somewhere about these helping with nuisance algae?

I am using RO/DI water for the tank... used to buy it, but recently purchased a unit to help with that. Like I said before, my water appears to be in check, but I am sure that the algae is holding some of the nitrates and phosphates as you suggest.
Salinity: 1.025
nitrates: 0
nitrites: 0
amonia: 0
Ph: 8.2
alk: 4.5
calc: 350

Still a newbie, and loving it! ha ha
 
I wouldn't get my hopes up too high about the UV filter being good at controlling algae. UV units are decent for controlling disease in the tank (such as ich), and if you've got the money to spare it won't really hurt anything, but I would get other pieces of equipment first (or use the money you would have spent on a UV unit to upgrade one of the more important pieces of equipment, like skimmer or light or something).

UV units' effectiveness is a function of the rate of water flow through it. If the water goes too fast, it won't really work at all. I'm not sure if the water can go too slow through it. But anyways, every UV unit will have a range of flow suggested (e.g. 200 gal/hr - 400 gal/hr). If possible, I would suggest setting the flow towards the low-end of that recommended range.

If the flow rate is towards the upper end, then only parasites are affected. Slow it down some, and parasites and algae spores are affected. Slow it down some more, and parasites, algae spores, and bacteria are all affected. So the slower it goes, the more things it sterilizes.

But when it comes to algae, it won't kill the algae that is growing on your rocks and glass. Only free-floating algae that has yet to settle somewhere, and only if it happens to get pumped through the UV unit. Because of this (combined with the need to carefully regulate the flow rate through your unit), the UV unit's effectiveness at controlling algae is limited.
 
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