Pura Phos Lock

I never used any type of additive on my 75. But i will say that ,for one never add unless you have tested for first. And this is just another tool used for control and by itself will not eliminate any current problem you have.
Do you have algea or high water readings you want to eliminate?
 
I'm not familiar with that product but if it's GFO (rust granules) it's likely fine. The only thing to avoid are the ceramic Phosphate media that look like white pebbles. Ceramic media works well but only lasts about 24 hours before it starts releasing Phosphate back into the water.
 
I have green hair algea and red slime is starting. I have changed the fish food to pellets instead of frozen brine. I have done a 15% water change. The red just seems to be getting worse. Not a big fan of additives like "Red slime Remover". Just trying to lower my phos level to hopefully get rid of the algea problem.
BLKTANG- That stuff can be used in a reactor? Considering getting one. Any special type of reactor for this Pur Phos Lock?
 
Well you could use something to remove it but it will come back. Leaving will only help by the amount it reduces while you correct.

Water flow is most important. Dirrect flow wil reduce the area its in faster then areas farther away from flow. Better flow in the worse areas is a great start. Then water source.Tap water very commen with red algea and green hair aglea but it will grow in filtered water as well/ Then CUC and amount of stock and amount you feed. Its best to feed more often then alot at one time. I feed flake a few time a week in the morning and pellet 1 time a week and will skip a day every so aften. And only what they can eat in 1 or 2 min. Then at night i feed frozen and a mix with brine one day then marine cusine and mysis shrimp adding cyclops and planket every other day. Only what they can eat in 3 or 4 min.

We need in fo like all equipment used?Amount of LR and LS?All stock and age of tank?
 
I like phosban better than the pura. Seems to work better and last longer. Pellets are probably going to add more "stuff" to your system than rinsed frozen foods.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11931930#post11931930 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tami1024
I have green hair algea and red slime is starting. I have changed the fish food to pellets instead of frozen brine. I have done a 15% water change. The red just seems to be getting worse. Not a big fan of additives like "Red slime Remover". Just trying to lower my phos level to hopefully get rid of the algea problem.
BLKTANG- That stuff can be used in a reactor? Considering getting one. Any special type of reactor for this Pur Phos Lock?

Yes it can be used in the TLF reactor.My po4 is 0.1 using a Hanna Meter.Its the best po4 remover i ever used.
 
Granular Ferric oxide is Granular Ferric oxide. It doesn't matter what label is stuck on it. I have used Phosban, Rowaphos and Phoslock and can't tell any difference. They all work very well.

GFO is not a cure all and one should not throw caution to the wind and hope for it to make everything nice again. It can quickly lower phosphate levels, even ones that are undetectable to crappy test kits, but if you keep SPS coral, you should start slow and use 1/4 the ammount of specified dosage and slowly work up to full dose.

If you consider using GFO, you should also address your feeding, water and cleanup crew. If you are overfeeding or not rinsing frozen foods, using tap water or RO/DI with worn out filters and membrane, GFO alone will not cure the problem.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11934529#post11934529 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by schigara
Granular Ferric oxide is Granular Ferric oxide. It doesn't matter what label is stuck on it. I have used Phosban, Rowaphos and Phoslock and can't tell any difference. They all work very well.

GFO is not a cure all and one should not throw caution to the wind and hope for it to make everything nice again. It can quickly lower phosphate levels, even ones that are undetectable to crappy test kits, but if you keep SPS coral, you should start slow and use 1/4 the ammount of specified dosage and slowly work up to full dose.

If you consider using GFO, you should also address your feeding, water and cleanup crew. If you are overfeeding or not rinsing frozen foods, using tap water or RO/DI with worn out filters and membrane, GFO alone will not cure the problem.


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