QT Protocol

Chriss614

New member
There seems to be so many different posts about peoples QT methods I wanted to get some focused feed back on what I need. I am going to start QT for all new fish because of my recent Ick infection. Currently all I have planned is to put all fish through a 30 day treatment with CP. What else should I treat with, CP covers parasites but I know there are probably other things I should take measures against, and what dosage should I use for my 10 gallon QT? Should I do TTM on all new fish or is the CP enough? (Id like to avoid TTM because it is alot of saltwater used and clutter and I feel that it stresses fish). Should I do any dips like freshwater or formulin? Finally can I keep a permenant fish in the QT like a cleaner wrasse?

Tank Specs:
75 gal (fallow atm)
x2 marine orbit pro lights
Carbon filter
Lots of live rock and sand
Sal: 1.025
Temp: 77
All parameters good

Fish:
Maroon clown
Porcupine puffer
x2 damsel

CUC:
Snails
Blue leg hermit
Cucumber
Coral banded shrimp

Coral:
Trumpet
Star polyps
Kenya tree
BTA

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Formalin will help get rid of things CP can't. so IMO it's worth doing the dip. Prazipro is another popular one, gets rid of flukes and worms, also considered relatively safe. You don't need to do TTM if you are using CP. TTM only works with ich, while CP works for velvet and ich and many other parasites.

Keep in mind with CP some wrasses and other fish don't do well with, it will kill them. (I believe it's lionfish?) also pipefish and seahorses.

You can keep fish in your QT all the time if you like. Cleaner Wrasses are generally considered a fish not to keep/buy as they usually die young, and the wild needs them to keep fish populations high. (reefs without them or with very few have less fish diversity and fewer juveniles).. I can see why you'd want one in a QT tank as there are some parasites they can eat, but between CP and Prazipro there wont be much left for him. A cleaner shrimp would work, but I don't believe they can withstand CP.

edit: I wouldn't do prazipro and CP at the same time.. I think I've read somewhere it causes problems.. maybe someone else can chime in with what that is.. or if I'm mistaken.
 
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edit: I wouldn't do prazipro and CP at the same time.. I think I've read somewhere it causes problems.. maybe someone else can chime in with what that is.. or if I'm mistaken.

I use both CP and PraziPro at the same time in my QT routine. I'll typically let the fish get adjusted and eating for the first few days before I start CP. About a week into the CP I'll do my first round of Prazi followed by a second dose 5-7 days later. However, the Prazi clouds the water pretty badly for a few days after dosing. I believe this is a bacterial bloom which can cause some oxygen concerns... so if you decide to go this route make sure you have heavy aeration and aren't heavily stocked.
 
are you doing Cupramine and Prazipro in DT directly? Will this not kill or negatively effect snails, anemone, and corals?
 
are you doing Cupramine and Prazipro in DT directly? Will this not kill or negatively effect snails, anemone, and corals?

CP (chloroquine phosphate) not Cupramine. And no you do want to use CP or Cupramine directly in a display with inverts, nems, or corals. This is for a QT routine.
 
Thankyou for the replies. From what I have got right now I am planning:
Formulin dip appon arrival
1 week to adjust and get eating
4 weeks CP
*run carbon to remove CP*
2 weeks prazipro (2 doses 7 days appart)
1 week Observation
Release to DT

Should I run carbon to get rid of prazipro?Does this cover all possible illnesses?

Another question, once I finish treating my fish do I have to throw out the sponge I put in my HOB for filtration or do I just throw it into the QT while I run carbon?

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Thankyou for the replies. From what I have got right now I am planning:
Formulin dip appon arrival
1 week to adjust and get eating
4 weeks CP
*run carbon to remove CP*
2 weeks prazipro (2 doses 7 days appart)
1 week Observation
Release to DT

Should I run carbon to get rid of prazipro?Does this cover all possible illnesses?

Another question, once I finish treating my fish do I have to throw out the sponge I put in my HOB for filtration or do I just throw it into the QT while I run carbon?

Looks like a good plan. Some may advice a longer observation period after treatment but I think you're looking good. Not entirely sure your carbon is necessary... the CP should be pretty much exhausted by 4 weeks and Hakari has claimed that PraziPro is effectively out of the water after 72 hours. The sponge should be able to be reused... if I remember correctly you don't want to use bleach though, I thought there is some adverse reaction. Rinsing it well, cleaning with hydrogen peroxide, and letting it completely air dry for 72+ hours should eliminate anything from lingering.
 
It doesn't cover all possible illnesses, it mostly gets the parasites, which is mostly what we see in this hobby from fish being kept with so many other fish. and their ability to overwhelm fish in a closed system. what you wont be treating for with this method is Fungal, Bacterial, and Viral infections.

But most of those are fixed with either good quality food/water or antibiotics... and that's what you'll be observing for during your QT. most of them wont be a problem to existing fish in your DT anyway.


Soak the sponge in freshwater kills most saltwater things (and vice versa).. air drying as well.. there are a few things that can survive that though and bleach is the only thing that will kill certain bacteria spores.. remember, once bleach dries completely it leaves behind only salt.. so just rinse once dry and you should be fine. (but, that also goes for your tank.. I'm drawing a blank on what it is.. but some sort of spore that can infect humans as well.. its rare)

edit: ah, hah.. found it: MYCOBACTERIUM MARINUM..

a lot of non-parasite diseases you'll never ID and you'll just have a dead fish.. it happens, but it usually doesn't wipe out the tank like the ones you'll be screening for.
 
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It doesn't cover all possible illnesses, it mostly gets the parasites, which is mostly what we see in this hobby from fish being kept with so many other fish. and their ability to overwhelm fish in a closed system. what you wont be treating for with this method is Fungal, Bacterial, and Viral infections.

But most of those are fixed with either good quality food/water or antibiotics... and that's what you'll be observing for during your QT. most of them wont be a problem to existing fish in your DT anyway.


Soak the sponge in freshwater kills most saltwater things (and vice versa).. air drying as well.. there are a few things that can survive that though and bleach is the only thing that will kill certain bacteria spores.. remember, once bleach dries completely it leaves behind only salt.. so just rinse once dry and you should be fine. (but, that also goes for your tank.. I'm drawing a blank on what it is.. but some sort of spore that can infect humans as well.. its rare)

edit: ah, hah.. found it: MYCOBACTERIUM MARINUM..
So you dont recommend treating for bacterial and fungal unless it appears on the fish in the DT? These wont spread?

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Looks like a good plan. Some may advice a longer observation period after treatment but I think you're looking good. Not entirely sure your carbon is necessary... the CP should be pretty much exhausted by 4 weeks and Hakari has claimed that PraziPro is effectively out of the water after 72 hours. The sponge should be able to be reused... if I remember correctly you don't want to use bleach though, I thought there is some adverse reaction. Rinsing it well, cleaning with hydrogen peroxide, and letting it completely air dry for 72+ hours should eliminate anything from lingering.
Thanks for the advice!

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So you dont recommend treating for bacterial and fungal unless it appears on the fish in the DT? These wont spread?

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If they appear during your QT then you treat during QT. if they appear in the DT, depends on what they are, some have reef safe treatment options, most don't spread to other fish, but mostly they only target weakened fish... You can look up all marine fish diseases you could encounter and see what the treatments are, a lot of them are just to provide quality water/food... parasites are just the biggest and most common problem and hardest to deal with in a reef tank... melafix/pimafix for example is reef safe and is used for fungal/bacterial infections. (but it doesn't cure all fungal/bacterial.. it's basically just natural anti-fungal and anti-bacterial plants.. you can use certain anti-biotics with care in a reef).. Ideally you'll get everything during QT. Which is why some people choose longer QT protocols.

personally for my 300 gallon, i'm doing your same protocol skipping formalin dip... I just don't like doing them unless I have to.. i'll use it re-actively instead of proactively... which may be too late in some cases.
 
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How would that be possible if CP is maintained at necessary levels? I think the only time it fails is when people don't test and dose more if needed.

Are you thinking of copper? Chloroquine phosphate isn't something that can be tested by most hobbyists.
 
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