QT'ing a leopard wrasse

ezhoops

New member
I'm looking to acquire a african blue stripe wrasse and I would like to know how to Quit.

I have a 29gal that I use for QT that has been treated with cupramine and methyl green. I currently have no sand in tank but was thinking of putting a tupperware container in there to accomodate.

What should I treat him with? I intend to use prazipro but anything beyond that?

Please tell me what you think?

he would be going into a 50 gal breeder that is loaded with pods, I also have a fuge that I can help supplement if he needs. I have a 3" sandbed in the tank and only a pair of clowns and a black velvet angel


let me know what you think
 
If you have the time to let it settle in before you get the fish, I'd put sand in the whole qt just for this fish. Add as much sand as you can. Which leopard is that?
 
prazi pro only ,no copper at all and you will have much better luck if you try to make the qt with gravel bottom and some live rock . leopards are very delicate and there is tons of information on "the leopard wrasse primer" here on RC . give it a read but it will take you a few minutes or so .
 
sorry I meant to say blue star wrasse. What if I use a tupperware container filled with sand in the QT?

The tank has been treated with copper in the past, will it be safe enough to use?


Are they known jumpers?
 
since it has had copper in it before, I would personally nor use it. Yes, they jump! get a clear mesh screen for a top.
 
the Tupperware container should give them a place to burrow if the figure it out as they usually do .i have housed corals and fish in many tanks that have contained copper with no ill effects . my current system is using many components that once had copper in them ,the tanks ,skimmer,100gal sump and 75 gallon tank that i am using for a refuge all had copper at one time or another .no ill effects and no measurable copper in my system and yes the silicone in my sump is blue-green from the treatments still to this day . if it was just the tank i would not worry about the copper but not the gravel as you should not use it just as a precaution .
again in my 12 tank fish only system i did dose with copper a few times and was given a dozen or so corals ,gorgorians ,urchins,snails ,conks and crabs and they all had to be put in the fish only system as it was the only place that i would put new unidentified stuff in and they all lived ,to this day i still have the conk,snails ,urchins and a couple of corals from then . the system had been dosed many times with copper when it had 100 or so fish in it and i never actively removed it but it was probably absorbed into the gravel and was out of the water . for it to be released back into the water i have heard that the ph must drop below 7 for this to happen .
again no worries on the tank IMO .
 
Great. I will clean out QT tank and patiently wait to acquire a blue star.. any sources would be great.
 
you should read the leopard wrasse primer here on RC as there is some very insightful information there . with the blue star i have had much better results without a QT as they are very delicate and many times can't cope with the added stress of the QT . IMO they do much better being put directly into the display tank .
 
you should read the leopard wrasse primer here on RC as there is some very insightful information there . with the blue star i have had much better results without a QT as they are very delicate and many times can't cope with the added stress of the QT . IMO they do much better being put directly into the display tank .

What about ich? I just went fallow for six weeks and don't want to reintroduce ich if I can help it. This would me lose my mind.
I know they are resistant but that's not full proof.
 
ralph is right as you should take the necessary precautions especially if you have had an infestation recently .
on the other hand i firmly believe that a healthy fish can resist and overcome ick and many diseases .i have had very good "luck" without QT my wrasses as i lost many in the QT . after a few times of basically throwing them into my DT i was surprised when they pulled through perfectly . this is why i do not QT because the stress is worse than the disease and often brings on the disease .
i do not preach that you follow in my foot steps but i have not had ick in 5 years or more so i have to stick with what worked for me . i also have to say that my survival rate has increased two fold or more since i have been doing this . actually there is only one fish that i have not been able to keep alive and it has nothing to do with ick but rather stress related form shipping and the overall length of the trip from Australia IMO .leopards are delicate shippers and very touchy during the first few weeks as a result of the stress they have gone through . many of them really should be left on the reef IMO .
again this has worked for me and please dont follow unless you feel the same as i regarding shipping stress and QT stresses that they go through .
 
thanks for your help everyone..

so if I find a healthy one that is eating I'm already ahead of the game?
 
yes if your livestock is healthy and you can get him to eat you have a much better chance . remember they are a delicate fish and stress reduction is also key .that is why i choose to introduce them directly into my display tank but that is completely you option as you have to weigh the pros and cons .
i feel the pros far outweigh the cons with such a delicate fish myself.
 
I've have similar experiences with add A. Chrysopetrus clowns directly into a reef. they just seen to feel more comfortable and fair much better.
 
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