Quarantine/Frag Tank Question?

[foltzcd]

Given all I am reading on RD and AEFW I am setting up a 20 gallon quarantine tank for new frags. Looking for advice on filtration as I don't want to go overboard.

This will be SPS only, no fish or other bio-load. I am thinking I will have success with live rock, 2 alternating flow returns, 1 175 MH light, carbon, macro algae and no sand. I am thinking I can go without a skimmer as long as I do weekly water changes using RO/DI water as a base.

Anyone with experience who can chime in with advice is appreciated.

 

[Malolo]

Thats alot of set -up for a qt. Is this strictly for treating new frags or a bonafide frag system? Qt systems are usually pretty barebones. Treat-em and observe closely for a week or two, then into exhibit and qt gets broken down till needed again.

 

[foltzcd]

A little of both really. My SPS's are now growing fast and I find I am throwing away all the frags created during general maintenance. I would like to keep the tank up for frag grow-out so I have some nice colonies to trade vs. just discarding them.

That said, I am increasingly worried about trades accepted into my display tank. Now that the tank is really taking off I would hate to see a hichhiker bring it all down.

Besides, I have and extra tank, MH pendant and alternating return valve just sitting in a box collecting dust.

Bottom line, a bit of both.

 

[sfsuphysics]

I agree, go to a bare minimum with your QT

Heater, lighting, flow, carbon is nice for when they slime up and such and a big piece of eggcrate in there to keep things off the ground/separated or for frag plugs.

 

[poknsnok]

just a powerhead with about 72 watts pc or t5 light. weekly water changes.. a skimmer(cheap one) wouldnt hurt .raise the eggcrate to within 6" or so of the surface and that light amount s/be just fine.. dip/intercept all incoming... observe for 4 weeks... dip/intercept before adding to displya. what I do now after I battled red bugs and monti nudis. At least I dont have aefw

 

[Dr.Maybe]

I think what foltzcd really wants is more of a frag tank and less QT. If you are throwing away frags you are basically throwing away money. I would turn the 20 into a grow out tank. If its a 20 tall just hang the light closer to the water. I think a 20 long is a great tank for frags.

 

[Malolo]

The system you describe sounds like a nice frag/prop system. I would do qt treatments in a seperate barebones setup. After a quick round of treatments you could move new arrivals into the frag system for extended obsevation.

 

[gflat65]

What you have described is almost exactly my QT tank. As I QT everything that goes into my tanks now (had all the bad boys except zoa pests), I have things sit for weeks at a time before moving them. I run a 20L with a 175W 12K, a Magnum 250 HOB with carbon-no filter floss, and a MJ1200 with some cheato in the tank. I do weekly 6 gallon water changes. I have been treating and observing things for four weeks at a time and one thing I've noticed is that it is very difficult to maintain Alk and Ca when you put many stonies in a tank that small (depending on size, but even small loads seem to pull the balance out).

 

[foltzcd]

gflat,

As far as Alk and Ca, I was thinking of taping a second line on to the bleed valve of my Korallin reactor and running a slower drip rate into the QT tank. This may require a slightly higher drip rate on the C02, but not a big deal. As long as my Display tank is pest free this should be ok.

Have you ever considered this?

Chuck

 

[gemxsps]

I think not easy if your 20 gal tank is sepreated from main one.
20 gal is very small one for sps and tank condition can be changed very easily. But if you linked this tank with your main one, it should be no problem even if you do not add any live rock or carbon.

 

[plaz]

Sounds like my QT system too. 20 long from Petsmart ($25), powerhead, heater, 175 10k with reflector setup on wood frame to ensure plenty of air/not too much heat - and comes off easily for water changes. I leave some live rock and chaeto in it to reduce the water changes. Oh... and an inexpensive auto-topoff with pump to bucket (you gotta have that with a 20 and halides).