Quarentine option questions

[keh9qd]

I am setting up a quarantine tank and have a couple of basic questions for those who have tried different methods. I read up on some of the stickies to this forum and did some googling. I found that each treatment treats certain illnesses. I have the detail about my equipent figured out and am using a large water volume, but I do not exactly understand the following:

1. I have read and heard various things about different methods. Which methods do you use and feel are the easiest? I am not looking to be lazy but I want the best method I can do without serious risk to fish that look healthy. I plan on QT ing everything I get. So far I am set up for hyposalinity with a PH monitor. This supposedly only kills or stagnates marine ich. On the flip side I will risk killing the fish with water quality or PH swings. I'm hoping the monitor will make this an easier process. This is said to be avoided with copper treatments.

2. If I do choose the hyposalinity treatment as the best method what is the best salinity levels? I've heard anything from 1.008- 1.017. Obviously the lower the salinity the more dangerous.


3. Any other advice on a successful QT process from your experience is appreciated.

Kurt

 

[b0bab0ey]

I don't use it myself, but I think the bare bottom QT setup is probably the way to go. I'll probably switch over to it if my QT ever goes bad on me. Basically, you just take an empty tank, fill it with saltwater, add a heater, some sort of filtration and you're done! Filtration can be a HOB power filter, air driven sponge filter, anything with a sponge which will allow bacteria to grow. A light & PVC fittings for hiding places are options but not required. The only downside I see if you'll need to monitor the ammonia closely (get a Seachem ammonia badge) and do WCs as needed. You definitely don't want to let excess food/fish poop accumulate on the bottom. As long as you're not lazy, this setup should work fine for you.

In regards to your question about hypo, slowly lower your SG to 1.009 and keep it exactly there without fluctuating!

 

[snorvich]

In regards to your question about hypo, slowly lower your SG to 1.009 and keep it exactly there without fluctuating!

That is correct. But it is not easy.

 

[keh9qd]

Yea, I appreciate the info, and I do have it set up that way and it's running. My question is: is hyposalinity the best and most efficient method? Next does anyone run salinity higher than 1.009?

Another question, what do you use for raising and maintaining ph, I was told not to use buffer?

 

[jcw]

Are you treating an illness?

If you are buying from a trusted source you may want to just quarantine without treatment for 5-6 weeks of observation only.

Maximize your chances at the outset with the healthiest fish available to you and you may not even have to deal with treatment.

My two cents.

 

[keh9qd]

Are you treating an illness?

If you are buying from a trusted source you may want to just quarantine without treatment for 5-6 weeks of observation only.

Maximize your chances at the outset with the healthiest fish available to you and you may not even have to deal with treatment.

My two cents.

yea fish look fine, Im just doing it to keep the tank healthy as I have expensive fish. I quarantining 2 expensive wrasse btw. I will probably do as your saying. Right now they are in there and the salinity is 1.020 and I'll slowly raise it.

Lets say the fish I just bought have ick, it is at a stage that isn't traceable, and I wait 6 weeks. Is it possible it can remain on the fish after 6 weeks untraceable?

 

[MrTuskfish]

Yea, I appreciate the info, and I do have it set up that way and it's running. My question is: is hyposalinity the best and most efficient method? Next does anyone run salinity higher than 1.009?

Another question, what do you use for raising and maintaining ph, I was told not to use buffer?

There just isn't a one size-fits-all answer. Treating diseased fish and using a QT to prevent problems with new fish are two different things. A QT becomes a HT (hospital tank0 when treating a known problem. Because hypo really only kills ich and is very maintenance-intensive; I wouldn't t use it unless you know a fish has ich. IMO, copper and PraziPro are good preventative meds; but copper isn't for everyone and I don't suggest it without knowing that the hobbyist has done real research on copper treatments and is willing to follow exact procedures. IMO, copper is not nearly as dangerous as many believe, assuming it is used & monitored.correctly. Concerning your SG question: SG above 1.008-1.009 will do nothing to eliminate parasites. there is no problem with keeping a QT at a SG of, say, 1.019----but I think its easier to keep the QT at the SG of the DT. I use water from my DT in my QT, so there is no acclimation when QT time is over. If you can be a little more specific with exactly you're trying to right now; I think we can be of more help. Also, I don't understand your reference to large volume of water usage in your 1st post and SG of 1.017 is not hypo-salinity.

 

[jcw]

yea fish look fine, Im just doing it to keep the tank healthy as I have expensive fish. I quarantining 2 expensive wrasse btw. I will probably do as your saying. Right now they are in there and the salinity is 1.020 and I'll slowly raise it.

Lets say the fish I just bought have ick, it is at a stage that isn't traceable, and I wait 6 weeks. Is it possible it can remain on the fish after 6 weeks untraceable?

There is always that possibility.

However, wrasses are generally resistant to ich due to the slime coat they develop. From what I've read and experienced.

6 weeks in a separate quarantine tank would be a good time to make sure those parasites that MIGHT be present go through their life cycle and die off.

Alternatively, you can get them to eat and flourish HOPEFULLY in QT in two or three weeks then maybe do a 4 tank transfer to get them in the DT. If you are unfamiliar to the transfer method I think there's a sticky at the top of the disease subforum.


I'm getting a very CHEAP wrasse and I set this up...

Since the pic, I put 2 very large live rocks (maybe 30+#) from my DT sump and placed them in the center of the lower sump.

This is just my opinion and based on my failures in QT, but 6 weeks in an uncycled qt is too much work for me and never made much sense. If you end up with a cycled tank at the end of QT then you've essentially cycled your tank with a very expensive fish. Funny how that's frowned upon in a DT but perfectly acceptable in QT.

I've had best success with fully cycled qt. With nitrifying ability that matches or exceeds what I'm QTing. Not some small filter sponge thrown in. This particular one is set up so that I could take the QT offline from live rock and treat if necessary.

Again, people do fine with the "standard" qt practice. I haven't. That might speak more about my ability than anything else, but I've quarantined my most expensive fish (which aren't really that expensive- a 3" Acanthurus pyroferus and a 3-4" Genicanthus caudovittatus) this way.


Good luck. But whatever you choose, I agree that protecting your DT is the most important thing at this point. Even if it's at the expense of new fish.

 

[b0bab0ey]

That is correct. But it is not easy.

I wouldn't even attempt hypo without an ATO.

 

[Tin_Whistler]

I wouldn't even attempt hypo without an ATO.

Word.

You can DIY one pretty easily for dirt cheap too.

 

[MrTuskfish]

Word.

You can DIY one pretty easily for dirt cheap too.

Sure, all toilets have one.