Red slime remover in acro tank....

marine_freak

In Memoriam
Any body used red slime remover in their acro tank???? I am beating my head on the wall trying to get rid of this stuff.... water changes, carbon, ozone, and even UV plenty of flow... and plenty of light..... 13.2 watts a gallon. Thinking about using Chemi clean red slime remover...... what sort of regime did you use, if you used the stuff.... IE: 24hrs then 20% water change????
 
I wouldn't (I don't) use things like that in my tank.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7034486#post7034486 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thereefgeek
Reminds me of the movie "Envy". Think of your red slime problem like a pile of poo. You spray on that product called Va-Poo-Rize, and it's gone!

But where did it go?

Same thing with Red Slime Remover. Where does it go?

Sorry to quote myself, but we have a long thread going on our club forum. Most cases in my experience can be traced to flow, dirty RO/DI filters, or over feeding. Bump up the circulation and do some frequent water changes for a while.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7031381#post7031381 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thereefgeek
Flow, flow, flow. You probably should add some more powerheads. I'm running about 4600 gph in my 200 gallon tank.

Also, start with removing the slime manually as often as it shows up. RO/DI usually doesn't relate to how much nitrates are in the tank. You should test the source (fresh product) water pre & post filtration to make sure the filters are working proberly. Depending on where you live the tap water could be better or worse, and the worse the water coming out the faucet, the more frequently you need to change the Carbon & Sediment prefilters and the DI post filters. In my area the prefilters are only good for about 500 gallons so I change them every 3 months. I test the TDS (total disolved solids) of my finished product water frequently to let me know when my DI resin needs changing. RO membranes should also be backflushed every once in a while to help them work at maximum efficency, otherwise they clog up and don't work as well. A cheap TDS meter is $15 and lets you know a lot about the water you use to mix salt. Usually red slime can be traced back to bad source water, but over feeding the tank can be a whole other problem. Be sure to keep the skimmer and the air intake for the skimmer clean so it works like it's supposed to.

It's always best to figure out what's causing the problem, not to add some "Wonder Chemical" to try and fix it.
 
I have used it...wouldn't do it again. My water columb was yellow looking for about a month, and my skimmer went nuts...
 
I have used it in all my tanks, even my show tank with all my prized Acropora. As a matter of fact I just dosed my 24g Nano with a $200 pair of Onyx clowns 3 days ago and there is no skimmer on the tank.

Sure the water gets yellow, because the color of the medication is yellow. I too was very skeptical as I would browse the internet and hear bad experiences, but when my employee (who use to own a store) tried it on one of our less valued tanks, it gave me hope. Since then we have tried it multiple times with success.

I'm not sure why others have had bad experiences all I can say from my experience it works.

Shut off skimmer for the 48 hour treatment. After 48 hours, do a water change and turn skimmer on. You will have to lower the skimmer performance to not overfill it. You may have to empty it a few times. Also add as much carbon as you can. The next day replace the carbon with the regular amount of carbon that you presently use.

Hope this was helpful :)
 
i havent used it but also dont see any need to. if you ahve a red slime problem then you need to find the source then fix it, not just buy a product that will make it " go away ". I am sure it doesnt harm the tank like ejocam said, no harm on any of his tanks. get some cerith snails, mine seem to eat the stuff, or drop down in feeding and do more frequent water changes. all better IMO than an off the shelf sollution. Think of it like this, if you car engine was making a bad noise and smoking out the tailpipe, you wouldnt just turn the radio up and rip the mirrors off would ya. well your reef is making a bad noise.

Tim
 
Thanks for the info..... I only feed 1-2x per week and only 2 frozen blocks so I do not overfeed...... I also have 2 maxijet 1200's and 2 seio 820's in a 75 gallon tank.... my return pump is an iwaki 70 rlt which returns water thru a full grid under my liverock.... is this flow not adequate???? I got a new RO unit the one I had was garbage..... now inline TDS readings 0.......will give it 8wks with new RO unit before I take the plunge to see if it begins to clear up.
 
I've used it before with the same results as Eric. That said, I think its best to try and battle it without using Red Slime Remover for a while and see if you can get rid of it. I would think This stuff will make a dent in your nitrifying bacteria.

I battled it for 6 months in my old 150 before I used RSR. That tank was a full blown well established SPS tank. The stuff makes a mess of the tank but it does work and the slime never came back.

Good luck
 
i wouldn't use it unless absolutely necessary. how long have u been battling it? increase your flow and feed minimally. increase water changes and syphon. be patient. it may work like ejocam though so it's up to u. what are your parameters?
 
---READ THIS----Do not use chemi-clean or any other Red Slime remover you are asking for further trouble in the near future. ----It will clear the Cyano, but exacerbate the original cause of the cyano, bringing about even more. I also cant say that adding these chemicals could even be healty for SPS or any coral for that matter. I might use it if i only had mushrooms in a tank, otherwisse no.
----Cyano is caused by nutrients(nitrate and phosphate) and can be exacerbated by aged fluorescent lighting, low flow, poor skimming(or no skimming), not replacing carbon, etc...
----HERE IS A LIST THAT WILL ERADICATE CYANO

1)Dont overfeed your tank.
2)Do you have a refugium? If not get one. Add a DSB and chaeto with good lighting to the fuge.
3)Are you skimming?What skimmer? Skimmer efficiency? You should be skimming more than you are skimming no matter how well you are skimming.
4)How often do you replace carbon? Carbon loses efficacy and leaches phosphates.Change it once a week or 2 weeks. Not every month like people may instruct you.
5)Is your lighting aged? What kind of lighting? Details please?
6)Have you test phosphates and nitrates?fuge will help export as well as skimming
7) Current? Increase your current with lots of chaos not laminar flow. Cyano dont like high current, but low current isnt the caue of cyano. Dont get that confused.
8)High Ph is a detterrent to algae and cyano. What is your PH? Do you dose Kalk or drip it? Ph 8.2-8.3 is lovely and will help rid cyano the right way.
9)What additives are you using? some are nutrient in a bottle or "snake oil" Dont use too many additives. Water changes do the most for replenishing elements etc....(see water changes below)
10) Your substrate? any? What is it ? How deep? Substrates, particularly coarse can be nutrient sinks over time. Vaccum it well and get up detrius. What is depth?
11)You need a tank dedicated only toothbrush. Go in every few days and wipe up the cyano. PUll out with net or if you have a mechanical filter you can let the tank trap it in that for you.
12) Water changes need to be weekly. Properly buffered, aerated etc... A good salt that doesnt contain phosphates, like IO or RC. Also, with RO/DI water.......Not just RO, but RO/DI.
12)Water changes need to be at least bi weekly, but optimal weekly. For a 75 gallon tank i would do about 12 gallons per week, or 25g's every two weeksSTRESS WEEKLY WC'S
and siphoning the deitrus and cyano out
13)What is your bioload? Fish and feeding regiment.
14) Look into phosphate removers like ROWAPHOS

----If you do all of this CYANO GONE

DONT USE CHEMI CLEAN OR ANY OTHER CHEMICAL TREATMENT
 
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