Reef tank has Ich. Trying to do the tank transfer method, but need help!

[cab395]

Hi all. Well, I noticed Ich in my main display, and it is totally my own fault based off of my lack of quarantine. I am planning on removing all of the fish and doing the tank transfer method with two 5 gallon buckets, but there are some logistical concerns that I need advice on.

Here's the run down. I need to get this done soon because I don't think my tank has long. I first noticed the Ich/Crypto almost two weeks ago, and because of my ignorance, I have been trying to feed heavily and with garlic to have the fish fight it off themselves. Those of you with experience know that that does not work. They have gotten relatively worse, but still are eating and whatnot.

I have 5 fish: 2 x Ocellaris clowns, 1 x Yellow watchman goby, 1 x Royal gramma, 1 x Flasher wrasse. These are all in a 38 gallon aquarium. My plan is to transfer these 5 fish into a 5 gallon bucket and do the tank transfer method back and forth.

Will these 5 fish be okay in the bucket for three days with ammonia build up? I only have one spare heater that will be able to be used. This leads to my other question.

Can I do this method with one heater? Can I transfer it over to the other bucket in the morning and then transfer the fish to the new bucket? I think it can heat the new bucket up fairly quickly so the old bucket doesn't cool down too much. What do you think?

Additionally, I know that I need to keep my DT fish-less for at least nine weeks. I only have a spare 10 gallon tank besides my 38 gallon. Will these 5 fish be okay in my 10 gallon for the 7 weeks they will need to be in there after the tank transfer treatment is complete?

Finally, what about my bio filtration in my DT? How do I sustain this with no fish in there? There are corals in the tank, so I need to maintain the bacteria population while not overshooting it by having too much ammonia in there. Should I "ghost feed" the tank every day a bit of food?

Thank you all so much! I'm am very nervous to do this, but I just can't let these little guys suffer any more. I feel terrible for letting it get this worse. Please help me!

 

[cab395]

One more question (even though it looks like it will be awhile till I get a response, LOL), about my QT tank. It's not set up yet. How do I make sure the ammonia doesn't get too toxic for my 5 fish in my 10 gallon QT tank over the 7 week period they will be in the QT tank? Do I just need to do frequent large water changes? How big/many are we talking here?

 

[HumbleFish]

Will these 5 fish be okay in the bucket for three days with ammonia build up? I only have one spare heater that will be able to be used. This leads to my other question.

You *might* be OK - but I personally would feel safer using a 10 or 20 gal tank. More so because of possible aggression between the fish in only a 5 gal bucket. A good ammonia reducer, such as Amquel or Prime, will keep the ammonia in check. You will need to use it everyday if you go the bucket route. What are you planning to use for aeration?

Can I do this method with one heater? Can I transfer it over to the other bucket in the morning and then transfer the fish to the new bucket? I think it can heat the new bucket up fairly quickly so the old bucket doesn't cool down too much. What do you think?

This is a bad idea. You need to sterilize all equipment in-between transfers, to avoid possibly transferring any parasites. And you don't want to risk temp fluctuations. I would buy a second heater.

Additionally, I know that I need to keep my DT fish-less for at least nine weeks. I only have a spare 10 gallon tank besides my 38 gallon. Will these 5 fish be okay in my 10 gallon for the 7 weeks they will need to be in there after the tank transfer treatment is complete?

I personally would go 12 weeks (the longer, the better IMO). Your fish will be fine in a 10 gal tank so long as you provide them adequate aeration, keep all parameters stable, and ammonia in check. So, lots of WCs are in your future (I only use ammonia reducers in a pinch).

Buy a few small PVC fittings so the fish have "caves" to hide in. And one of these to keep an eye on the ammonia.

Finally, what about my bio filtration in my DT? How do I sustain this with no fish in there? There are corals in the tank, so I need to maintain the bacteria population while not overshooting it by having too much ammonia in there. Should I "ghost feed" the tank every day a bit of food?

Ghost feeding is what you'll need to do - a pinch of flake in there every other day.

 

[HumbleFish]

Just another thought - the five fish you mentioned are all good candidates (IMO) for copper treatment. You could just use Cupramine in that 10 gal tank you have. The main challenge would be keeping your copper level stable for 4 weeks. Every time you do a WC, you will need to re-dose the appropriate amount of Cupramine. So you would need to buy a copper test kit (i.e. Seachem, Salifert) and check it. Also, you can't use any kind of ammonia reducer with copper. So, WCs become your only option for keeping the ammonia down.

 

[uruguayanreefer]

Let me ask you a question.
Have you considered going hypo salinity and over feeding using garlic?
I had an pick out break and cleared it up in a week using this method.

I got a lot of hair algae afterwards but it was a lot better then trying to break half my tank down to catch everything and then subjecting my fish to copper treatment

 

[cab395]

Unfortunately, I think the only way I can do this is with 5 gallon buckets. I only have a 10 gallon tank besides this, and not two to do the transfers back and forth. Maybe I can add a bunch of PVC pieces to the bucket to make sure each fish has multiple hiding spots?

I totally cannot believe I didn't catch the possibility of contamination with the heater. I dug through my old aquarium stuff and came up with another one, so I now have two I can use. I think I am okay on that front.

I also planned to use a powerhead for aeration, but I can also use a air pump if you think that would be better?

Also, is it okay that the QT won't be cycled? The many water changes will help with that? I'm thinking twice a week? How much of it should I change each WC?

 

[cab395]

Honestly, I haven't thought about copper or hypo salinity. Copper sounds like it could be a good idea and honestly does sound a lot easier. My only gripe with it is that it sounds like it's a lot harder to pull off correctly. TT seems like a lot more work, but easier to do correctly, whereas copper seems like a lot less work and easier to screw up. Would you guys do copper/hypo instead?

 

[Anim8me2]

Check out the chloroquine thread for a safer treatment method. You do have to treat the apparently unaffected fish because they are infected also.

 

[HumbleFish]

Unfortunately, I think the only way I can do this is with 5 gallon buckets. I only have a 10 gallon tank besides this, and not two to do the transfers back and forth. Maybe I can add a bunch of PVC pieces to the bucket to make sure each fish has multiple hiding spots?

Like the heater, any PVC pieces must not be shared between the two buckets. Same goes for powerheads/air stone/tubing. They all need to be cleaned & dried thoroughly before using again. Basically, you even want to go so far as transferring as little water as possible with the fish. :eek2:

 

[cab395]

Okay. I will buy two sets of the PVC and now have two heaters, air stones, and powerbeads. Do you think I should try copper or hypo salinity instead though?

 

[HumbleFish]

Okay. I will buy two sets of the PVC and now have two heaters, air stones, and powerbeads. Do you think I should try copper or hypo salinity instead though?

Every situation is unique and different. From what you've told me so far, I would run copper on them if I were in your shoes. Mainly because I would be a lot more comfortable using the 10 gal tank vs. a 5 gal bucket for 5 fish.

I have no experience with hypo.

Whether you go copper or TT; both methods have their pros & cons. With copper, you will need to do regular WCs to combat ammonia as neutralizers are off the table. You also will need to re-dose Cupramine in the bucket as you are doing the WCs, to avoid any fluctuation in the copper level. If it drops below 0.35 mg/L, even for a second, the 30-day treatment period starts all over again. Which is why you'll also need a good copper test kit.

 

[Mrscribbled]

Let me ask you a question.
Have you considered going hypo salinity and over feeding using garlic?
I had an pick out break and cleared it up in a week using this method.

I got a lot of hair algae afterwards but it was a lot better then trying to break half my tank down to catch everything and then subjecting my fish to copper treatment

Never had a "pick out break" if refering to ich, I'd say the hypo dis the trick, not the garlic.