RO/DI Unit Issue - Assistance Needed

werkkrew

Member
Hey All,

I have a 6-stage RO/DI unit (1x sediment, 2x carbon 2x DI) with two 75GPD membranes running in series.

Lately I have been noticing something odd: When the outlet valve is shut off, the pressure gauge slowly spikes past its limit and starts making a noise, once I turn the output on it goes back to "normal" levels and stops, but once I turn it off it will slowly creep up again. I put normal in quotes because under operation it reads somewhere around 80psi, but my water main has a pressure regulator on it which is set to around 60psi.

In addition to the above, when I am actively making water, the DI stages empty out and barely a trickle of water flows through them (roughly the same amount as what I get at the output). Once I turn it off, after some time, the DI stages top themselves back off again. This issue is not new and the system has always done this, but it always struck me as odd and I am wondering if it's normal or not.

I am not sure if anything is hooked up wrong, but I don't think it is. I am essentially looking for some help figuring out which components (if any) need to be replaced, and if anything might be hooked up wrong.

The water is flowing through it like this:

Input Water -> Sediment Filter -> 2x carbon blocks -> (pressure gauge / tds meter) Auto-shutoff Valve Input (top) -> Auto-shutoff Valve Output (top) -> RO Membrane 1 Input

RO Membrane 1 Waste Output -> RO Membrane 2 Input
RO Membrane 2 Waste Output -> 550 ML/min Flush Valve -> Drain

RO Membrane 1 Clean Output + RO Membrane 2 Clean Output -> Auto-shutoff Valve Input (bottom) -> Auto-shutoff Valve Output (bottom) -> 2x DI Stages -> TDS Meter 2 / Usable water


Once I have the issues sorted out, I think I am going to buy a pressure booster pump and an automatic flush valve as I have my RO water for topoff being made automatically now in 50 gallon batches. I want the membranes to last as long as possible given that I will not be manually flushing them and my new house has slightly lower water pressure than is ideal.

It should be noted that I recently moved. My system had been sitting in the garage and it froze before I got it set back up. When it froze, the following items were clearly broken, and have been replaced: RO Membrane Housings (cracked), Carbon Block Housings (cracked), Flow Restrictor (housing cracked).

I have a feeling the auto-shutoff valve might be broken also, but as of right now the unit does make 0TDS water and nothing leaks.
 
Sounds like a normal minor water hammer effect typical with stopping water quickly (closing a valve) in a plumbing system..

Also sounds like normal function of a DI where it won't always be completely full of water

Have you tried adjusting your water pressure higher too at the regulator? Or is 60PSI the max you can get?
I always suggest doing that vs the cost of a booster.. even more so when your pressure is already good enough..
 
Sounds like a normal minor water hammer effect typical with stopping water quickly (closing a valve) in a plumbing system..

Also sounds like normal function of a DI where it won't always be completely full of water

Have you tried adjusting your water pressure higher too at the regulator? Or is 60PSI the max you can get?
I always suggest doing that vs the cost of a booster.. even more so when your pressure is already good enough..


I would agree except it's not really behaving like that. When I shut it off at the outlet the pressure slowly builds and the gauge is making a noise only once it is above the redline. It doesn't seem to really hammer.
 
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