RODI Hook up questions

[travis32]

I've asked BRS these questions, so hopefully I get good answers.

I want to get an RODI unit, because I'm using my simple 10gpd RO unit (TDS25) on my 55g, and A) it's not fast enough to generate change water. it Takes 2 days of careful planning around cooking and drinking water to get enough RO water for a 10% change. Not conducive to emergencies.

So, I'm thinking of picking up a 75gpd RODI off BRS. I didn't see anything in between 75 and 300 on their site. I'm planning on putting it after mys oftner. As I've heard that the softened water, despite having salt in it, will cause the membrane to last 3 - 4 times longer than the straight hard water.

Problem is that the water supply from the softner already goes 2 places: 1. My water heater supply, and 2. My RO unit.

I was thinking about putting some type of "T" valve on the supply to my RO Unit so I can redirect the softened water to the RODI unit. The place I have for the unit would be perfect with the waste water going straight into my washing machine drain. I just have to figure out how it would fit in line with the supply.

Also, I'm willing to bet that we have around 30psi water preassure. (Having a preassure guage on the RODI unit might be worth it). But, if that's the case, then, will I get much better than my current 10gpd RO unit?

 

[davehenri]

Go to the hardware store and get a tee for running an ice cube maker from your cold water line. Get a 1/4" valve too. You can run the 1/4 inch tubing from the valve to your RO unit. I just hooked mine up and it works great. I sprung for the Spectrapure 5 stage 90 direct from Spectrapure. It was on sale for $287 delivered to my door. I am very happy with the unit. I also purchased, at a later date, their auto top off float valve and shut off valve. It has made my life much easier.

 

[lordofthereef]

So you are going to be running your "old" (10gpd) RO unit as well as this "new" (75gpd) RODI unit? Why not just use the 75gpd unit for your drinking and tank water. Just tap into the RO water before it hits the DI water and use that as drinking. We have a 3 gallon reservoir under the sink that is hooked only to the RO portion of the unit for drinking and cooking. We have a larger 40g container for RODI water for top offs and water changes.

 

[mgoblue]

If your PSI is only 30, you will probably want to add a booster pump. My PSI was running between 30 and 40 (well water) and I was only able to produce 1 gallon every 40 minutes (75 gpd unit). Also, I am told that this would significantly reduce membrane life. I sprung for a booster pump and I now run 60-70 psi and I get about 3 gallons an hour now, which is what I should be getting with a 75 gpd unit.

 

[travis32]

Nice MGo blue. I was debating on the pump, but, sounds like it's worth it.

Lord, you have a good point. That complicates the project a little as I have to figure out how to bypass my existing RO unit and run the water directly into the reservoir. (2.5 gallon reservoir under the sink. Oh and the hosing / plumbing from the Softner is running through the wall fromt he softner to the existing RO unit. I'm not saying I'm opposed to it. I'm a plumbing novice though. I paid culligan to install the existing system because I was scared of messing with water.

 

[aleonn]

Definitely get the booster pump. I had to buy one from BRS since my house water PSI was only 34. The booster pump (very easy to install) got the pressure up to 67. I also upgraded my 75gdp 5-stage PLUS unit by purchasing the 150 GPD kit. Also very easy to install. Twice the water in half the time.

 

[travis32]

Thanks Aleonn. yeah, I defiantely will go with the booster pump and 75gpd just to alleviate potential issues with water preassure, that I'm pretty sure we'll have.

I saw the 150gpd upgrade kit. I'd probably wait on that, but definately good investments.

The conundrum I have is a simple one. My existing RO system from Culligan has a 7 year warranty on the RO membrane. It's only been 2 years. So, do I sell it used and replace it with this, or keep them as two separate units until that RO membrane is shot and then just throw that system out and replace it with this one. Granted, then I'd be replacing sediment filters, and pre-filters on two units on two systems until the RO membrane is shot.

 

[aleonn]

Are you using the Culligan RO system for drinking water? Sorry I'm not familiar with that brand.

My house already had an RO drinking water unit, but I got the BRS RO/DI unit anyway. For me it was better to have two separate units so I don't interfere with the wife's cooking and drinking water needs, while I play with the fish tank.

 

[travis32]

Yeah, the straight RO unit is for drinking water only. It's a 4 stage RO unit. We paid way too much for it. The water softner with RO unit including all plumbing and installation from culligan was $1900 (on sale)...

That included them installing and around 10 free bags of salt for the softner. They would have plumbed the RO to the fridge dispenser if we had one.. We don't have one though.

Without the softener though, our hot water heater burned out in less than a year due to rust. With the softener, they claimed it should last 3 to 5 years. Salt is still harsh on hot water heaters, but, less harsh than straight rust I guess.

Hense why I want to hook up the RODI unit to the softener.

 

[aleonn]

Sorry, I don't know much about softeners and hot water heaters. Bump so someone else can chime in