RODI set up ?

M3P

Member
Does anyone run catalytic activated carbon in their RODI set up to remove chloramines? I've been running 2 brs universal carbon blocks in series after my sediment filter to accomplish this, but I guess catalytic carbon is the new thing?

Thoughts?
 
If I remember right. BRS did a test of carbon blocks with a chloramine water supply. I believe the Pentek Cloroplus carbon block preformed the best and had a pretty good life. I believe they are recommending placing the catalytic carbon in the first chamber and a pentek block in the second. From the looks of it I don't think it works better. I think it is just cheaper, $22 for a pentek block vs. $11 for catalytic carbon refill. I think the catalytic carbon works as a high level scrubber and the carbon block cleans up all the low levels left. To me seems like a mess and more work to empty and fill a DI canister vs swaping a block.
 
I started running the catalytic carbon after finding trace amount of chlorine last year. So far all tests have been negative since using it. I only run the catalytic carbon.
 
I run an FX Chloraguard before a BRS .5 micron universal. Change out the universal when I get a .25ppm chlorine reading after a water run (LaMotte Instacheck test strip) . Usually I change the Chloraguard after the second or third universal. Usually somewhere between 350-400 gallons on each universal block, when the gallons produced between universal blocks drops off appreciably, that's when I change the Chloraguard.
I tried running the universal before the Chloraguard, and didn't have very good results. Seems having the Chloraguard to the "heavy lifting" works out best. Have not tried running two Chloraguards in series.
Have not tried the loose catalytic carbon.
 
No, catalytic is a higher grade.



Don't remember specifically but they were the standard BRS blocks.

my understanding is the standard blocks don't take out chloramine and you have to get the ones slightly more expensive knock out chloramine.

I agree though. I've been running 2 blocks in series and no issues that I know of. Not sure I want to change to catalytic carbon now...maybe if i were just starting the tank i'd be more inclined to make the swap.
 
Do you have access to the water quality report up there?
Chloramines are becoming a more common form of treatment, but I'm not sure if everyone is.
Brs has a good video on chloramines in tap water, if you haven't seen it.
 
Chloramine is very hard on carbon blocks. I run two Pentek chloroplus blocks inline and get at least 1500 gallons before anything remotely starts to show.


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I just change out my carbon when my DI resin changes color. Figure that's the safest way. I've been using it a little over a year and about to start on the 3rd cartridge of carbon. I'll probably get 5 or 6 fills out of the $30 bottle. I evaporate about 20g a week (less in the summer) between the 2 tanks, plus random water changes.
 
We carefully reviewed the manufacturer's specifications when deciding which carbon blocks to carry for purposes of treating chloramine. Our Chloraguard filters provide the best value. I'd always opt for a chloraguard block over catalytic gac in a refillable cartridge.

Russ
 
I run the ZetaZorb .2 micron sediment filter, then Chloramine carbon filter, then .5 micron carbon filter.
 
hmmm, wonder if this could explain why my DI never lasts more than 6months. I just assumed it was the cheap bulk stuff i bought off ebay.

Is there a test for Chloramine, i could test before the RO and then before the DI?

Other than normal reef tank paranoia, id like to know what exactly is going on :) :)
 
hmmm, wonder if this could explain why my DI never lasts more than 6months. I just assumed it was the cheap bulk stuff i bought off ebay.

Is there a test for Chloramine, i could test before the RO and then before the DI?

Other than normal reef tank paranoia, id like to know what exactly is going on :) :)

Saint Louis water supply uses Chloramines. If you are in Kirkwood I would almost guarantee that you have chloramine treated water.
 
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