rodi vs tapwater

Just want opinions on tapwater thinking about going back to tap. I am currently using rodi battling with hair algae in my 180 all levels are good. I changed from t5 to mh Its been growing like crazy ever since. I know when I have used tap before, hair algae would come and go its just sticking around now. I have cut my mhs down to 4 hours a day. Going to try some lettuce nudis soon, turbos dont appear to be eating it . Im also getting hair algae in my 20 long thats running t5s.
 
How old are our filters and di resin?
Do you have a TDS meter?
If thats all good are you over feeding your tanks.
I really dont think that tap water is a good solution to an algea problem. The TDS out of tap over here is around 65, not sure what makes up that 65, but I dont want it in any of my tanks.
 
Your algae is probably feeding from phosphates leaching out of the rock from the tap water you have used in the past. It may take a while for it all to flush out. If you keep using the same tap water you'll never get rid of it. It's not the light's fault.
 
Using tap water will only cause more problems for you. The reason you are struggling with hair algae is because of excess nutrients in the water. I would set up either a refugium (it doesn't have to be fancy) or start carbon dosing. The only actual fix for nuisance algaes is to cut their food source and that means getting rid of all that excess NO3 and PO4 in your system.
 
It depends on the source water. I kept my 15 gallon tank with tap water for a year without any problem when I started it. I have a 5 gallon plant refugium on it. The only problem I had during that time was a film of diatom. Tap water in Madison seems to have enough silicate that diatom flourished. When I started using RODI water, my lawnmower blenny lost its food source (diatom and some film algae) and starved to death.

However, tap water seems to vary a lot in quality from time to time and from place to place. I am happy that I switched to RODI water. The tank seems to stay a bit cleaner. You can use tap water, but beware of the problem that it may bring from time to time.

Many utility companies issue annual drink water reports. Have you seen one of these for Cullman? They measure a lot of different things. It's kinda enlightening. However, these reports only show average values including nitrate and phosphate. For example, phosphate and nitrate levels are a lot high during winter months in Madison. EPA allows copper level up to 1 ppm. Madison water is generally below 0.5 ppm on copper, but it can fluctuate up or down periodically. As you know, copper is toxic to inverts and small organisms. An angelfish breeder friend reported losing all new batch of fry to an elevated copper level (above 0.5 ppm but below 1 ppm.) I have lost my daphnia culture completely a few times when I did large water changes (I do water changes routinely), too. I use a certain dechlorinator that detoxifies chloramine, chlorine, ammonia, NOx and other heavy metals, but I suspect that the normal dosage could not bind an excess or something extra in the water. If you see a road construction near your house, watch out. I understand that utility puts extra chlorine in water when the water main breaks during construction.

Is there any reason why you want to stop using RODI? I know it wastes a lot of water, but it also costs a lot to get rid of algae that is often fueled by excess phosphate and nitrate in tap water.
 
RODI is not the cause of algae problem especially if TDS reading is 0 ppm. There is no nutrients for algae in RODI water. If algae is growing, it is because they are fueled by excess nutrients in the water which is most probably coming from fish waste and uneaten food.

Is your bio load low enough for your reef tank?

Does your fuge have a lot of macroalgae? If a macroalgae packed fuge is not outcompeting the nuisance algae, macroalgae may not getting what they need or the tank water has more nutrients than they can take up. Increasing the amount of light over the fuge and adding some iron supplement help a lot if macroalgae is under performing. However, if there is too much nutrients in the water, you need to first reduce the excess nutrients by doing a few large water changes back to back. Adding GFO and GAC may help a lot.

Switching back to tap water may not help you at all. My tap water has about 10 ppm of nitrate and close to 1 ppm of phosphate in the winter time. Cullman water may be cleaner, but you are taking a chance. RODI water is definitely devoid of nitrate and phosphate and any other nutrients algae require to grow.
 
Fuge has a good bit of macro, I did a 40 gal water change thursday, all of my params are good, definately weird and frustrating. Fuge is on 24hr. I did add some liverock not to long ago and most of it is on the new rock.
 
I would suggest more cleaners, hermits and snails along with the nudis you mentioned.
If I put a frag or rock in any of my tanks that has algea on it ,my cleaners go straight to it and dont stop until all of the algea is gone. Even if the new addition doesnt have algea the cleaners give it the ol once over.

I got this info from an online article:

"How Many Specimens Should I Have in my Clean-up Crew?

The general rules are:

· 1 snail per gallon
· 1 crab per 4 gallons

However, these rules do not mean you can put 20 Nassarius snails in your 20 gallon aquarium. Instead, you want to mix and match the snails, crabs, and shrimps to get a good combination. Regarding how many of each species for the snails, consider these general rules:


Asterea snails are usually kept at one per six or seven gallons due to their annoying habit of dying when they are flipped over.
Trochus snails can be kept at as many as one per gallon.
Nerite snails can also be kept at as many as one per gallon.
Turbo snails should only be kept at one per every seven or eight gallons due to their size and extreme algae eating ability.
Nassarius snails are generally kept at one per three gallons, but they depend more on the area of the substrate. If you have a tall tank then perhaps only keep one per five gallons. "

Also I would not buy/put just any live rock into my aquariums. Not only do you run the risk of nusance algeas you never know what the tank the rock came from was treated with. If you think the algea came in on the added rock, take it out of the tank and put in one of those big totes until you get rid of the algea thats on it.
 
It is not surprising that your water parameters are good. Algae are grabbing all the nitrogen, phosphate, and other nutrients as soon as they are generated. Algae are known to be good water purifiers. Algae Turf Scrubbers were popular as a water purifiers for a reef tank in the past. Your algae happens to be in a wrong place (display tank), that's all.

Once they are there, they will stay there until you remove them. You can add more effective algae grazers (as Eric Borneman put it, "we need more cows in our reef tanks") or GFO. Some people had good success with API AlgaeFix with some type of hair algae. Some people raised Mg to 1600 ppm to get rid of Bryopsis successfully. However, a small number of people also reported that neither worked for them.

If you can take the algae infested live rocks out of the tank and scrub them good with stiff nylon or wire brush, it helps. Snails prefer young new sprouts rather than old tough ones.

Rabbitfish is probably the best algae grazer. Most of them are good reef inhabitants, but unfortunately, some develop a taste for soft corals when they run out of algae to munch on.

Dolabella sea hare happens to be a good one as well, but you need to cover up all the intakes of your powerheads. They are good at plugging up your powerhead and killing themselves. Dolabella sea hares do not seem to poison the tank when they die. No inking, either. I had them when I had a bad Dictyota (macroalgae) infestation six or so years ago in my 29 gallon tank. They run out of Dictyota in that tank and I was feeding them with macro from my fuge to keep them alive for awhile. But when I got really busy at work and got lax about feeding them everyday, they starved to death in my tank. Luckily I found them (dead) pretty quickly and no harm was done.

I better stop rambling on. I am a planted tank person and I can get excited about these things just like Beaslbob (one of our outlaws in RC). I am sure that he will tell you to try "black out" for a few days. Turning light off for 5 days will weaken them for sure. Doing so often eliminates green water, but I am not sure if that eliminates stubborn hair algae.
 
I have read that using magnesium off label can cause unwanted things to rise as well. Can't remember excatly what. Also I have read that you need a certain brand of mag, again I have forgot. I would guess its the kent mag. I will try to find the thread about this.
 
I havent found the thread yet, but I was able to PM the reefer that was writing about the risk of dosing Mag for algea control. With her permission, I am going to pass on the info she sent me:

"It's a fact that many liquid magnesium products contain ammonia - including Tech M. Tech M is absolutely safe when dosed per package directions but if you intend to hyper-dose it (deliberately overdose it) you should keep that in mind.

If you don't believe me, run an ammonia test on your Tech M. That will be proof enough.

When I was told that, I ran ammonia tests on Tech M and Brightwell Magnesion. Both contained ammonia.

Just a word to the wise is all - it's fine to use Tech M for bryopsis control, it just is wise to know that ammonia is one of its byproducts."
 
The recommended brand for magnesium against Bryopsis is Kent TechM, but a number of people said that brand name actually does not make any difference as long as you raise your tank Mg level high enough. Randy Holmes Farley also mentioned that ammonia is often a part of the impurity of magnesium chloride. Some magnesium product contains more than others. Algae actually prefers ammonia over nitrate although they can consume both. While it is considered safe to raise your Mg level with magnesium chloride up to the normal sea level, tt may be a good idea to use some ammonia remover when dosing a large amount of magnesium.
 
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