Router for acrylic

[badpacket]

Well, if you are looking for something on the cheaper side since you may not use it often, check out Lowes. They have the Black and Decker Firestorm 2.5 hp fixed router with a plunge base as well. From what I've read, its an ok router, not on par with a Bosch or DeWalt of course. But then, do you really need one if you don't do a lot of woodworking? Just got one last week for $67 + tax before I decided to just go with the Hitachi since I 'think' I'm going to like working with it. PBS has a great Router Workshop program thats inspired me.

BTW, on the BT3Central.com website ( for Ryobi fans of BT3x table saws) found a great link to a nice set of Holbren 1/4" shank router bits for $30. Holbren is also a member of that forum and most everyone seems to concur that he has good bits at good prices. You can still get this set which sold out on his site at overstock.

http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?PAGE=PROFRAME&PROD_ID=1546464

 

[werew]

I started off using a dremel w/ a router base and it worked alright, but the cuts left very rough edges even when making several slow passes when cutting 1/4" acrylic.

I then bought a Craftsman 1.5 HP router which cut up to 1/2" thick acrylic really well, nice smooth edges and 1 pass cuts.

I usually buy my tools new, but I've found that the more "manual" type tools can be bought at pawn shops sometimes for 75% of what they cost brand new. This is where I found my favorite router of all time.

A Ryobi 3/4 Hp trim router, for $15. For 1/8th thru 5/16" thick acrylic this router works great. Brand new this router costs quite a bit more than $15 at Home Depot, but it is perfect for the small-medium acrylic projects. I've used it to make 3/8" radius roundover cuts and it eats it up, leaving a nice smooth cut surface.

 

[eshook]

All this information is great! I have been reading a bunch of stuff and have pretty much decided I need a router and I'm not sure which I want to buy yet. I'm thinking I might check out a few pawn shops and if I can't find anything good then I might goto hardware store and pickup something. If that is the case I will read reviews of them and hopefully be able to make a good purchase.

werew thanks for the information. Its nice to know that a 3/4 hp trim router will do 1/4" acrylic. I don't plan on doing anything more than 1/4" (not for a *long* time at least) so I'm glad this is an option. I might be looking for something like that or the 1.5 hp router. I really don't plan on getting into acrylic too much and if I do in a few years then by that time I will have a full time job and will be able to afford a nice expensive router with all bells and whistles. At this point, being a poor grad student, I just want to get by with something that will work reasonably well. (Cut a few overflows and baffles) I was also considering a 2.5 gallon surge tank, but that is in the distant future (i.e. maybe in 1-2 years) so I don't have an immediate need for a big router. By that time it will just start to rust in my shed and I will have to buy a new one anyway.

Again to everyone thanks for the information, after class I will be going to the pawn/hardware shops to look around. I have been concentrating my efforts on my canopy right now but eventually will need to focus on the overflows/baffles.

 

[LcanisIX]

Good prices on factory-rebuilt routers, etc

Good prices on factory-rebuilt routers, etc

I just recently got into woodworking when I decided to build a stand/canopy for my daughter for her birthday.

I found this site very helpful in building a decent weekend shop on a budget

http://bosch.cpotools.com/reconditioned_tools/

That 2hp plunge/fixed base combo for $140 is awesome!

I'm getting ready to try my hand at a couple of fuges so I'm sure it'll come in handy! just FYI...

 

[werew]

Lcanis,
I just noticed the IDPA in your "interests". I've been shooting IDPA for about 3yrs. now. Hehe, reef-a-holics and handgun-a-holics!

Anyways... I thought i'd just mention... for 1/4 and even 5/16 inch thick acrylic, i'd HIGHLY recommend a 3/4hp trim router.

It makes high quality cuts of the forementioned acrylic thickness. After I made my custom acrylic 85gallon tank, I really haven't had any use for my 1.5hp router.

Harbor Freight might have an economical off-brand make trim router that'd work well also. Up to 5/16" thick acrylic doesn't put hardly much of a load on mine at all. With this in mind, I don't see why an off-name brand wouldn't work just as well.

 

[eshook]

I was just at Menards (midwest HD/Lowes style store) and they had a 1/4 hp trim router on sale for $25. It was a "tool shop" brand (offbrand) router but either way I thought $25 was a decent deal.

Werew you think this type of router would suffice for 1/4" acrylic? Do you have any problems cutting grooves for baffles or anything else with it (1/4" and below?)

Thanks for your help!

 

[mattboy]

I'd probably try to save money by getting a fixed base only router; mine is a porter cable, I think about 9 amps. The real advantage to a plunge router is if you had to cut a channel in a flange, like for an o-ring. If you don't need to do that, the plunge is not so important. The thing is, 95% of what I do with acrylic for aquarium stuff is done on a router table; but you don't have to buy one, they're not hard to build. Best to make it pretty big; a 2' by 4' piece of MDF works great as a router table surface; just build some braces and legs out of 2X4 and you're in business. Make sure to leave a lip around the perimeter of the table, then you can use a 2-3" wide strip of MDF as a fence, just held in place with a couple of clamps at the table's edge.

If you have a good table with a fence, you can cut perfect pieces by setting up the fence so that the acrylic goes between the fence and the bit. Rough cut first, (with a table or skill saw or anything) then position the fence so that you just shave one edge; do this on each of your pieces you want to be the same size (like the sides of a sump that all have to be the same height). Then move the fence a tiny bit closer to the bit, and run the pieces through again, with the opposite edge against the bit. This is the only way I've ever been able to get four sides EXACTLY the same height with super clean edges for gluing to the bottom and top. It sounds like a lot of work, but if you can find the router used, which is not hard, and build the table yourself it's a pretty inexpensive set up. You do need one pretty good edge to start with, but it does not have to be perfect.

The one thing I would bit the bullet and spend money on, as other have suggested, is a good couple of bits. I end up doing almost everything with 2 bits; a 1/4" spiral upcut straight bit for edges with the fence, and a 1/4" spiral upcut flushtrim bit. If you only want to buy one, get the flushtrim bit. Let's say you cut one side and you want to match the others to it, you can attach the good side to a piece of acrylic with double sided tape and use the flushtrim bit to make an exact copy. It's really useful. Probably you're looking at about $30 for a good one.

Have fun!

 

[werew]

Eshook,
Well... the router I have is 3/4 Hp and the one you mention is 1/4 Hp. I think the 1/4 Hp trim router you speak of MIGHT work on 1/4" thick acrylic, it'd just make cuts slower.

I am pretty sure that the 1/4 Hp router you speak of would work much better than a Dremel tool with the router attachment. My Dremel with router attachment made VERRRY slow multi-pass cuts, and left rough edges.

Mine has no problems cutting teeth for overflows in 1/4" thick acrylic, and cuts up to 5/16" really well.

The model # of mine is Ryobi TR-30U. 29,000rpm's and 3/4Hp.

 

[hot4teacher]

I used a Craftsman Router (a baseline model) with a straight 1/4" bit (sorry I don't know the technical name of the bit). Did just fine on both acrylic and plexiglass.

The key is having a good guide/jig set up.

Dana