seahorse color
- Thread starter thealy
- Start date
Many seahorses do change colors. Their colors change depending upon tank decorations, age, and stress levels. Most change colors during mating and greeting displays. Some color changes can indicate stress (especially darkening) but some color changes don't really mean anything. They will sometimes change color to blend in with their background so tank displays can affect color. Some seahorses stay the same base color but just lighten and darken. Others have dramatic color changes. Buying a seahorse based on color is misleading since there is no guarantee that they will stay that color.
The only time you really have to worry about color change is if its only part of the seahorse that changes color (i.e. the tail turning white) or if your horse has isolated or uneven patches of color change. These types of changes may indicate disease or parisites.
To learn more try looking on these seahorse dedicated sites:
www.seahorse.org
www.syngnathid.org
The only time you really have to worry about color change is if its only part of the seahorse that changes color (i.e. the tail turning white) or if your horse has isolated or uneven patches of color change. These types of changes may indicate disease or parisites.
To learn more try looking on these seahorse dedicated sites:
www.seahorse.org
www.syngnathid.org
RichConley
New member
I wouldnt necessarily worry about patched color changes. One of the Reidi we have like to turn bright yellow. The other one turns a kind of yellowy-brown with black stripes (like every other body segment turns color).
That being said, when theres a color change thats bad, it generally looks bad.
That being said, when theres a color change thats bad, it generally looks bad.
DanU
New member
Not always! Generally, patches that appear on one side instead of bilaterally should get further attention. Some species will develop saddles similar to, as described above, which are benign.
If you don't mind digging a bit, somewhere further back in these thread Pete Giwojna did a great job of explaining colors in seahorses.
Dan
Thank you for your response. When I got them they weren't too dark and now they are very dark so after reading your responses I'm assuming its because my background glass is black and I have black sand. My hitching post i yellow and orange but thats about he only color in the tank. They are eating and moving around so I don't think they are stressed, they have been in my tank for 9 days now.
Try a search for chromataphores. They are the cells that contract and expand to give the color changes. Chameleons have these cells as well.
Just curious what your water parameters are.
My seahorses (many others as well) only turn black when my parameters are awry or the seahorse is stressed; I have a black background.
Don't freak out though. This is NOT always the case with the color black. Just a little FYI for you.
With many seahorses that are sold at high prices for bright colors, the seahorses do just like to camouflage themselves to their new environments upon arrival, in your case the black substrate and background, which would be why they changed after you got them.
They can also change color just according to the time of day. One of mine is ghost white/almost transparent at early morning hours of 4 am. at lunch he's golden brown. about 7pm he's yellow. then back to pale white by 1am. They are moody little pets. If they get excited they may flash colors rapidly, especially if the get too excited and court.
Just curious what your water parameters are.
My seahorses (many others as well) only turn black when my parameters are awry or the seahorse is stressed; I have a black background.
Don't freak out though. This is NOT always the case with the color black. Just a little FYI for you.
With many seahorses that are sold at high prices for bright colors, the seahorses do just like to camouflage themselves to their new environments upon arrival, in your case the black substrate and background, which would be why they changed after you got them.
They can also change color just according to the time of day. One of mine is ghost white/almost transparent at early morning hours of 4 am. at lunch he's golden brown. about 7pm he's yellow. then back to pale white by 1am. They are moody little pets. If they get excited they may flash colors rapidly, especially if the get too excited and court.
I will search chromataphores, thank you. My salt is at 23 and I test for phosphates, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, ph, calcium and alkalinity and all are very good. My PH is at 7.8 and I add buffer to raise it alittle and it always stays at 7.8.
I did notice that they do get lighter at different times of day so I am not worried now. They eat with no problem and do not look stressed.
I did notice that they do get lighter at different times of day so I am not worried now. They eat with no problem and do not look stressed.
Parameter Problems
Parameter Problems
A pH of 7.8 is very low. You should try to determine what causes it to stay that low and fix it. Sometimes low alk levels lower pH. Also, KH carbonate hardness can affect swings in alk and pH. Check it as well. It should be around 7dKH. The pH needs to be at least 8.0, with 8.1-8.3 being optimum. Keeping them at low pH increases risks of serious health issues.
The pH is likely what may be causing their dark coloration to stay.
Do you have any macroalgae or seagrasses in the tank? Possibly a sump or fuge with these?
If you don't have a sump/fuge and do have macro or grass, pH swings may be occurring, causing them to lighten during the day and darken when the lights go out and the macro/grass isn't photosynthesizing.
Some people solve this problem by having macro in a sump/fuge on an opposite light cycle, which stops rapid pH swings.
Do you have surface agitation? Sometimes, this helps raise pH. Also, when mixing your saltwater, aerate the saltless water first for about 24 hours, then add salt, mix for 24 hours, then aerate for 24 after mixed. This can help raise pH, IME.
Can you post exact numbers for each of the parameters you labeled as "very good"?
Ammonia and nitrite should be 0.
nitrate should be less than 20 preferably. No more than 30 though.
Parameter Problems
A pH of 7.8 is very low. You should try to determine what causes it to stay that low and fix it. Sometimes low alk levels lower pH. Also, KH carbonate hardness can affect swings in alk and pH. Check it as well. It should be around 7dKH. The pH needs to be at least 8.0, with 8.1-8.3 being optimum. Keeping them at low pH increases risks of serious health issues.
The pH is likely what may be causing their dark coloration to stay.
Do you have any macroalgae or seagrasses in the tank? Possibly a sump or fuge with these?
If you don't have a sump/fuge and do have macro or grass, pH swings may be occurring, causing them to lighten during the day and darken when the lights go out and the macro/grass isn't photosynthesizing.
Some people solve this problem by having macro in a sump/fuge on an opposite light cycle, which stops rapid pH swings.
Do you have surface agitation? Sometimes, this helps raise pH. Also, when mixing your saltwater, aerate the saltless water first for about 24 hours, then add salt, mix for 24 hours, then aerate for 24 after mixed. This can help raise pH, IME.
Can you post exact numbers for each of the parameters you labeled as "very good"?
Ammonia and nitrite should be 0.
nitrate should be less than 20 preferably. No more than 30 though.
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If the macro doesn't seem to help so well:
You could try raising the calcium to 350-400. Maybe a water change would do this.
Do you use RO or RO/DI water for mixing your sw? You could try using one of the products for RO conditioning or perhaps you could use your pH buffer with the RO before sw. Add the pH buffer to plain RO water and then mix in the salt after aerating. This helps, IME.
You might consider testing or getting your LFS to test dissolved oxygen levels in the tank.
You could try raising the calcium to 350-400. Maybe a water change would do this.
Do you use RO or RO/DI water for mixing your sw? You could try using one of the products for RO conditioning or perhaps you could use your pH buffer with the RO before sw. Add the pH buffer to plain RO water and then mix in the salt after aerating. This helps, IME.
You might consider testing or getting your LFS to test dissolved oxygen levels in the tank.
