richardy1990
New member
My seahorse seems to now start to always stay at the top of my tank. Doe shtis mean something is wrong?
Seahorse Hanging @ TOp
- Thread starter richardy1990
- Start date
richardy1990
New member
Ya
TamiW
Seahorse Wrangler
That sounds like the most likely cause. Even the gentlest of clownfish are likely to intimidate seahorses in a tank that size. But before declaring that the cause, can you give some aditional information:
1) how long has the tank been set up
2) how big and what kind are the clownfish
3) how big is the seahorse
4) what species of seahorse
5) what is your temp, ph, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
6) is your seahorse eating and if so, what
7) how long have you had the seahorse
8) how long has it been hanging at the top
1) how long has the tank been set up
2) how big and what kind are the clownfish
3) how big is the seahorse
4) what species of seahorse
5) what is your temp, ph, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
6) is your seahorse eating and if so, what
7) how long have you had the seahorse
8) how long has it been hanging at the top
Since you've apparently not taken the hint from your last post, I will try to spell it out for you. Your seahorse is not happy. A 12g tank is not large enough for 1 seahorse. Clownfish, especially those who are eating all of the food, are not good tankmates. A 12g tank is definitely not large enough for 2 clowns and a seahorse. Your seahorse is staying at the top because it is stressed &/or hungry. Neither is a good thing when you are talking about seahorses. Your seahorse is probably a dark or black color, this usually signifies stress. Stress will kill your seahorse.
Your options are to remove it to its own larger tank. Take it back to wherever you got it from. Give or sell it to someone who is better equipped to keep it. Any of these options need to be done immediately. If you wait around to see what happens, what you will have is a dead seahorse.
Your options are to remove it to its own larger tank. Take it back to wherever you got it from. Give or sell it to someone who is better equipped to keep it. Any of these options need to be done immediately. If you wait around to see what happens, what you will have is a dead seahorse.
richardy1990
New member
1. Set up at least 6 months
2. 1" False Perculas
3. 3" Seahorse
4. Dwarf I Think (Long Nosed)
5. 78-80F...lfs said water is fine
6. Seahorse eats ghost shrimp, live/frozen brine shrimp
7. more or less 1 month
8. stays at the top, then after i feed, it doesnt anymore, then goes back to the top the next day
The thing is, everything has been surviving, and I spent alot of money on the tank, and the seahorse cost me about $80ish dollars, so i dont want to get rid of it that quickly, and it seems to be doing fine, and it is not dark in color
2. 1" False Perculas
3. 3" Seahorse
4. Dwarf I Think (Long Nosed)
5. 78-80F...lfs said water is fine
6. Seahorse eats ghost shrimp, live/frozen brine shrimp
7. more or less 1 month
8. stays at the top, then after i feed, it doesnt anymore, then goes back to the top the next day
The thing is, everything has been surviving, and I spent alot of money on the tank, and the seahorse cost me about $80ish dollars, so i dont want to get rid of it that quickly, and it seems to be doing fine, and it is not dark in color
ReefNutPA
New member
Hi Richard,
It's possible the seahorse just prefers to hitch at the top of the tank. However, based on what I know of your tank I honestly don't think that's why it's staying up at the top most/all of the time.
First of all...as you were advised to do before, the clownfish has to go. Period. Secondly, your tank is too hot. You need to bring the temperature down to 76F MAX but preferably 74F. Thirdly, frozen brine shrimp is not nutritional for your seahorse and neither is live brine unless you enrich it with vitamins.
You really should have checked around before buying a 12 gal tank and/or the seahorse BUT since you have it we'll do our best to help you. For a single 3" seahorse a 12 gal tank can be a temporary home for just a short period of time. To make it work you will definitely need to get rid of the clownfish. You will also need to get your own test kits and not rely of the LFS to test your water. Water can foul really fast in a 12 gal tank.
I'm sorry to hear you spent so much money...on the seahorse and on the tank
Unfortunately I think you'll need to spend quite a bit more to give that seahorse a suitable home. I wouldn't do anything less than a 20 gal hi tank for that one seahorse.
Before you spend more money though....take the clownfish out and keep feeding the seahorse ghost shrimp (not brine shrimp). For the price you paid...the seahorse should be a captive bred seahorse and should have been eating frozen food. Ideally, you should try to get it to eat frozen mysis shrimp (Hikari brand is available at most stores).
Again, we don't mean to sound like we're picking on you....but as April said, this seahorse is not happy. It's up to YOU to make sure his conditions improve if it's still possible.
Once the clownfish is out (like today or tomorrow) the seahorse should feel more relaxed. Make sure you have something for the seahorse to hitch to on the bottom of the tank... some kind of fake plant or fake coral or something.
Keep trying to get it to eat frozen mysis shrimp. It's much cheaper than buying live foods for it. Things can hopefully improve for this seahorse, but it's up to you to do it.
If you notice any discoloration or white patches on the seahorse, that could indicate other problems brought on by the high tank temperature. Let us know if you see any strange white coloration now or in the near future.
Best of luck!
Tom
It's possible the seahorse just prefers to hitch at the top of the tank. However, based on what I know of your tank I honestly don't think that's why it's staying up at the top most/all of the time.
First of all...as you were advised to do before, the clownfish has to go. Period. Secondly, your tank is too hot. You need to bring the temperature down to 76F MAX but preferably 74F. Thirdly, frozen brine shrimp is not nutritional for your seahorse and neither is live brine unless you enrich it with vitamins.
You really should have checked around before buying a 12 gal tank and/or the seahorse BUT since you have it we'll do our best to help you. For a single 3" seahorse a 12 gal tank can be a temporary home for just a short period of time. To make it work you will definitely need to get rid of the clownfish. You will also need to get your own test kits and not rely of the LFS to test your water. Water can foul really fast in a 12 gal tank.
I'm sorry to hear you spent so much money...on the seahorse and on the tank
Unfortunately I think you'll need to spend quite a bit more to give that seahorse a suitable home. I wouldn't do anything less than a 20 gal hi tank for that one seahorse.Before you spend more money though....take the clownfish out and keep feeding the seahorse ghost shrimp (not brine shrimp). For the price you paid...the seahorse should be a captive bred seahorse and should have been eating frozen food. Ideally, you should try to get it to eat frozen mysis shrimp (Hikari brand is available at most stores).
Again, we don't mean to sound like we're picking on you....but as April said, this seahorse is not happy. It's up to YOU to make sure his conditions improve if it's still possible.
Once the clownfish is out (like today or tomorrow) the seahorse should feel more relaxed. Make sure you have something for the seahorse to hitch to on the bottom of the tank... some kind of fake plant or fake coral or something.
Keep trying to get it to eat frozen mysis shrimp. It's much cheaper than buying live foods for it. Things can hopefully improve for this seahorse, but it's up to you to do it.
If you notice any discoloration or white patches on the seahorse, that could indicate other problems brought on by the high tank temperature. Let us know if you see any strange white coloration now or in the near future.
Best of luck!
Tom
I'm not familiar with your tank or other posts, but based on this thread...
Your seahorse is not a dwarf. Dwarves max out at 1.5 inches or so and cannot eat ghost shrimp, not 3". Long-snouted seahorse is most likely H. Reidi coming from an LFS, sounds wild-caught or CB that isn't trained to frozen food. Unfortunately, reidi are one of the larger seahorse species that quickly do get too large and messy for a small 10-19 gallon tank to handle.
Is your seahorse a male or female? (Males have the pouch)
It is possible that it (if male) has bubbles in the pouch causing him to stay near top. And at feeding, he could be chasing/struggling to the food and drifting to the top when not forcing itself after the food (due to air).
The high temperature is typical in the wild. Your tank, however is nothing like the real ocean in function, so you should really lower it to at least 76F and below as Tom mentions. High temperatures allow bacteria to spread more rapidly. If the clownfish so much as nip the seahorse (by accident or on purpose) when going after the same food, a bacterial infection can rise quickly and spread.
Alternatively, the clownfish swim too fast and freak out the seahorse. Because of their swimming and territorialness, the seahorse clings on to something at the top for dear life until it has a chance of food.
Just a suggestion, but if you get a larger tank, you may be better off going to Wal-Mart and buying their 29gallon tank set-up rather than being conned into something by the LFS again. It is relatively cheap and comes with lighting, filtration and such, but most of the stuff that comes with it (as far as food etc is for freshwater). Still it is a decent deal for the 29g with equipment.
Sorry that the LFS misinformed you. It is very common, especially with seahorses. Good luck and please consider our advice, it's voluntary and we just want you to be happy with a happy seahorse.
Your seahorse is not a dwarf. Dwarves max out at 1.5 inches or so and cannot eat ghost shrimp, not 3". Long-snouted seahorse is most likely H. Reidi coming from an LFS, sounds wild-caught or CB that isn't trained to frozen food. Unfortunately, reidi are one of the larger seahorse species that quickly do get too large and messy for a small 10-19 gallon tank to handle.
Is your seahorse a male or female? (Males have the pouch)
It is possible that it (if male) has bubbles in the pouch causing him to stay near top. And at feeding, he could be chasing/struggling to the food and drifting to the top when not forcing itself after the food (due to air).
The high temperature is typical in the wild. Your tank, however is nothing like the real ocean in function, so you should really lower it to at least 76F and below as Tom mentions. High temperatures allow bacteria to spread more rapidly. If the clownfish so much as nip the seahorse (by accident or on purpose) when going after the same food, a bacterial infection can rise quickly and spread.
Alternatively, the clownfish swim too fast and freak out the seahorse. Because of their swimming and territorialness, the seahorse clings on to something at the top for dear life until it has a chance of food.
Just a suggestion, but if you get a larger tank, you may be better off going to Wal-Mart and buying their 29gallon tank set-up rather than being conned into something by the LFS again. It is relatively cheap and comes with lighting, filtration and such, but most of the stuff that comes with it (as far as food etc is for freshwater). Still it is a decent deal for the 29g with equipment.
Sorry that the LFS misinformed you. It is very common, especially with seahorses. Good luck and please consider our advice, it's voluntary and we just want you to be happy with a happy seahorse.
