Setting up a QT

STXtank

New member
My wife and I have had our 29g tank for about 6 months. We have not been quarantining our new fish and we just got marine ich. We've decided to use the copper treatment in a QT so we dont kill our inverts / rock (40 lbs). But in setting up the QT, I had a few questions. We have 5 small fish: 1 Dottyback (~1.5 in), 2 Yellowtail Damselfish (~1 in), 1 Tomato Clown (~2 in) and a smaller Clown that I'm not sure on the species (~3/4 in).

1) Since this QT is going to serve as both as their home for a few weeks and as a true QT for our future new fish, what size tank should we be looking at. We have an old small 15g tank, but is that going to be too crowded?

2) As far as filtration, this will be a new tank with no biological filter in place, and since we dont have time to place a new filter pad / sponge in our DT for it to 'cure'; can we take our HOB filter from our DT and use it for our QT and go ahead and make the move to a better filter for our DT? Or should we get a new filter and just keep a close eye on the ammonia and keep it in check with water changes?

3) And should we start with new water or use tank water or maybe a mix?

4) We're planning on permanently setting it up in a back room that gets indirect natural sun. Is that ok, or should it be in a more dimly lit area?

We're also going to use a tank volume appropriate powerhead / heater and add hiding places in the form of assorted pvc pipe pieces.


Will need to do anything special to our DT since it won't have fish in it? The only inverts we have are a turbo snail and a banded coral shrimp.

Also, any other tips / lessons learned about QT's are welcome.
 
1. 15 gallon is okay
2. Don't use the HOB filter in your DT or you will have no filteration in DT. Buy a cheap HOB filter for your QT
3. Use your tank water to fill up your QT
4. Natural sun should be okay
 
I have a simple 20g QT that I have been using for 3 yrs now

powerhead with sponge filter.
heater
thermo
PVC pipes

I do use WC water from DT for QT "waterchanges" use RO to topoff QT evap. mark the waterline on the QT at your desired SG level then just topoff with RO daily and the SG will stay the same.
QTinMixRm.jpg

QTTankcloseup.jpg
 
test for ammonia often, and try to have enough mixed salt water on hand for a 50%WC
and pick up a bottle of PRIME in case you have an ammonia spike and your DT needs to sit with no fish for at least 30 days/4 weeks to be safe so the ich can go through all it's life cycles and dies
 
Notice the ammonia alert badge in the pics above. With a 15g tank and with that many fish, that will be a key level to know at all times. I have heard hypo-salinity is a good way to kick this parasite. Research this method from as many sources that you can find prior to trying this. Always start with what your fish are used to (1.024 - 1.026) and SLOWLY push down the salinity. After a few weeks of this, SLOWLY bring it back up. Using your DT water is a great place to start. Your fish are used to this and the stress (depending on how long it takes for you to net them) will be minimal. I agree, having some PRIME nearby is a good idea for emergency relief, but be sure to have plenty of water mixed and cured (24-36 hours) at the salinity you are using. Large water changes is a good practice. 40-50% every week at least. Most of all, keep those fishies eating! Food food food. Full fish are happy fish and their immune system is stronger. If they stop eating, success rate is lower.
 
You might want to check on using Prime when using copper. It mentions that it is counter productive with each other. It might lower the ammonia but copper treatment dose will drop as well.
 
You might want to check on using Prime when using copper. It mentions that it is counter productive with each other. It might lower the ammonia but copper treatment dose will drop as well.

If you use it with Cupramine it will change it from safe Copper 2 to a very toxic Copper 1.
 
If the display tank has power heads and rock in it, then pull the HOB filter from it and place it on the QT. With an established HOB, you most likely won't have to deal with ammonia spikes during the treatment.

The tank may be ok, but with the lack of a natural habitat, ie. no rock/coral, it may be a little cramped. The two damsels and two clowns would be my concern...they are very teritorial fish....keeping them all together in a small tank could be tough. Just be ready to move any in the event they start fighting.

My suggestion is copper, but that's because I don't like hypo, but both treatments will work.
 
I don't think you should trust the ammonia alert badge I have used one before and it never changes from yellow and I know other people that have tried them to and they had the same problem.

But you should be fine with weekly water changes as long as you don't over feed you won't need to worry about ammonia.

Oh and having an air stone in your QT will help to
 
Thanks for the great advice. I'll try to update about how the QT tanks going and how the copper treatment works out.
 
i have a hob for my QT and im just going to take one of the filters toss it into my sump and then when needed stick it back into the HOB... and obviously toss it after its been used and just stick a new filter back into the sump
 
Another thing to consider, paint the back, sides AND bottom of qt tank black or blue, this also helps stress levels. If your going to get a new filtering system for your dt, then i would use the existing hob from your dt for qt, and get a new one for your dt. In doing this, keep an eye on your dt with a new filter too, that has to break in with bacteria. If you use copper, know that you cannot use anything out of your qt back to your dt.
 
i have a 20 gallon tank with two tangs. ive done 10% water changes every 12 hrs because of ammonia.. what can i do to help reduce that. ive used to same water from my DT and im still having a problem. i just set this QT up 24 hrs ago.
 
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