I have a 125 Gallon FOWLR, 150lb's of live rock. Currently in the tank I have Koran Angel, Dogface Puffer, Volitan Lion, Lunar Wrasse and several damsels. Last week I got a Clown Trigger from a trusted LFS so I floated him as usual and put him in the tank (our levels are set up exactly the same salinity, etc.) My nitrates are 5ppm, Nitrites 0, no ammonia, PH is 8.2ish. Anyway, the Trigger has never acted very "tough" but was eating a little starting yesterday he quit eating and today he was just laying on his side and looking like he was about to die, after several hours of moving live rock, etc. I got him out and into a QT. It's weird he looks like he can't stay upright or something, it's hard to explain but the yellow half-circle area directly below his dorsal fin looks like it has been deflated or something it's all sunken in. Otherwise color is dull, looks stressed. I feel bad for the guy, not sure what I can do to help save him. Any suggestions on what I might check or try?
Sick Trigger
- Thread starter jpcoll01
- Start date
reefergeorge
New member
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First problem was not acclimating the fish. Triggers are tough, but I would have spent the extra hour to ensure everything is fine.
You could try lowering the salinity as low as 1.009 to reduce stress, and add some stress coat. Good luck That is one of my favorite fish.
First problem was not acclimating the fish. Triggers are tough, but I would have spent the extra hour to ensure everything is fine.
You could try lowering the salinity as low as 1.009 to reduce stress, and add some stress coat. Good luck That is one of my favorite fish.
reefergeorge
New member
My first picasso died in QT of mysterious causes to. He hid in a rock only coming out to eat. He died after 3 days. I disinfected the tank, and tried again with another Picasso from a different store, and he did great. Good luck
If he had sunken areas when you got him, that's not a good sign. Triggers should always be full looking in the body and eating well. A trigger that's off his feed has a good chance of being sick/dangerously stressed. (Shy triggers like blue throats are an exception.) Sorry for your loss.
I realize you probably know this, but in addition to taking the time to acclimate, it's also a good idea to QT new fish for a couple weeks before adding to your tank. That trigger could have introduced disease that could wipe out your tank. You don't have to set up a brand new tank - an appropriate sized rubbermaid container with an internal or power filter and some live rock is fine. If you need to medicate, remove the rock and any charcoal in a filter.
I don't know your ultimate plans for the future, like upgrades, but your tank is getting pretty full, or it will be when your fish approach adult size. Also, triggers are generally not the best tankmates with lionfish. IME dogface puffers are pretty safe with lions, but I would not get any other species, both because of the bioload issue and because other puffers are a great risk of fin nipping the lion.
Good luck with the tank. If you are just starting out, and haven't read it yet, New Marine Aquarium by Mike Paletta is under $20 and a great guide for FOWLR tanks.
I realize you probably know this, but in addition to taking the time to acclimate, it's also a good idea to QT new fish for a couple weeks before adding to your tank. That trigger could have introduced disease that could wipe out your tank. You don't have to set up a brand new tank - an appropriate sized rubbermaid container with an internal or power filter and some live rock is fine. If you need to medicate, remove the rock and any charcoal in a filter.
I don't know your ultimate plans for the future, like upgrades, but your tank is getting pretty full, or it will be when your fish approach adult size. Also, triggers are generally not the best tankmates with lionfish. IME dogface puffers are pretty safe with lions, but I would not get any other species, both because of the bioload issue and because other puffers are a great risk of fin nipping the lion.
Good luck with the tank. If you are just starting out, and haven't read it yet, New Marine Aquarium by Mike Paletta is under $20 and a great guide for FOWLR tanks.
The saga continues, Trigger died last night, today my Dogface Puffer looks like he has had sugar sprinkled all over him. Looks like that Trigger is going to cost me more than just the $50 I had in him, he brought an ick outbreak to my tank. I treated with "super ick cure" I wanted to avoid Copper, I know every ick treatment is bad on inverts but hoping this isn't as bad as copper. I have a good bit of live rock. Oh well, lesson learned the hard way I guess.....Quarantine for every new fish from now on.
wickedfish
New member
I know what your talking about. Im on my 3rd trigger. I have had 2 die on me in the same situation you were in bu tno ick problem. I have no idea why, they were 1 in half inch, the first one died in 4 days. It was eating good and then day 2 i can tell it was looking a lil drunk in there. Day 3 it wasant eating at all and day 4. When i woke up in the morn it was lying at the bottom. I waited a week and bought another 1 in half inch trigger, I set the bag, in the water for an hour this time, while pouring some water form my tank in the bag every 15 mins. Then i finally put him in. He quickly went in and hid in the rock. The next day it was laying on the bottom. a month later after just last week i bought a bigger one about 2 inch and made sure the lfs store held in there and i watched it for a week as it ate and i took it home and its fine swimming around. Ick is horrble. You have to be on that a.s.a.p. I suggest leave the lights of for a few days and lower your salt and immediatly put your fish in a q.t tank and be patient. I know your going to be anxious. Patience is the key.
Tiny triggers are known for high mortality rates. I don't know if it has to do with how they are caught/handled, or if they can't take stress, or if it's a nutritional issue. You will do better with a trigger at least 2.5-3 inches.
I disagree that a six week QT is always necessary. If after two weeks a fish shows no sign of disease, is eating well and apparently healthy, it is in all likelihood good to go.
A stay in a hospital tank is different. If you treat a fish for a known pathogen, it should be in the tank longer.
I disagree that a six week QT is always necessary. If after two weeks a fish shows no sign of disease, is eating well and apparently healthy, it is in all likelihood good to go.
A stay in a hospital tank is different. If you treat a fish for a known pathogen, it should be in the tank longer.
Thanks again for all of the responses, I treated with Super Ick Cure last night and my water is now green but the fish seem to be doing much much better. All of the crabs and Snails are still living as well (unlike copper I think) I will follow instructions and treat again tomorrow and then do the water, change, carbon, etc. to get rid of the color and hopefully be good to go, every new fish will be in a 10 gallon QT for at least a couple weeks before going into the tank. Thanks,
chibopelu13
New member
I think you should acclimate your fish for about 2hrs even if your water is exactly the same at the LFS. It can't hurt to acclimate them properly and will probably lower your mortality rate. Not acclimating properly just causes extreme stress on your fish
Recty
New member
Just a BTW, super ick cure wont kill the white dots on the fish, it just kills the free swimming ich that you cant even see.
Yes, it will make your fish appear better, but since you only dose for a couple days then take it out, the life cycle of the ich hasnt been interupted. It will still be in your tank and after a stressful event you'll see it rear it's ugly head again.
Yes, it will make your fish appear better, but since you only dose for a couple days then take it out, the life cycle of the ich hasnt been interupted. It will still be in your tank and after a stressful event you'll see it rear it's ugly head again.
I'm not sure what else to do, I don't have another tank big enough to put all of the fish in for 6 weeks to allow things to run their course in the tank. I understand that it can come back, but at this point, short of using copper, I'm not sure what else I can do. I have 125 Gallon with a ton of live rock, etc. my only other tank is a 10 set up as a quarantine tank (set up recently).
Recty
New member
Yeah, if you're not willing to set up a quarantine tank to truly fix the ich problem, there isnt a lot you can do.
You just have to get into the mindset that if "stressful events" happen in your tank, like temperature swings, lighting changes, change in aggression between your fish as they grow... these kind of things can trigger an ich outbreak since it's already established in your tank.
I guess it depends how much you care or how much money you have spent. For me, it cost under $100 to get a 55 gallon quarantine tank set up. I bought one off craigslist for $30, I got a decent powerhead for it and some medications. I'd MUCH rather have spent that $100 than lose some of my $100-$300 fish
You just have to get into the mindset that if "stressful events" happen in your tank, like temperature swings, lighting changes, change in aggression between your fish as they grow... these kind of things can trigger an ich outbreak since it's already established in your tank.
I guess it depends how much you care or how much money you have spent. For me, it cost under $100 to get a 55 gallon quarantine tank set up. I bought one off craigslist for $30, I got a decent powerhead for it and some medications. I'd MUCH rather have spent that $100 than lose some of my $100-$300 fish
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