Sink and a laundry pump

[JDL]

Am thinking of installing a sink with a laundry pump in my fish room. Anyone ever do something like this? Sadly my ceiling is drywalled so i will need to put a hole in the ceiling and run the tubing across the ceiling around 40 feet away to my sump pump.

Sink will be used for the dehumidifer drain and for water changes.

just looking for suggestions on laundry pumps and sinks.

Thanks

 

[2turtles]

Don't know what the building code people would think of this but I am assuming that this is on the basement floor and you are talking a small about of "grey" water and you already have a sump pump, I would be temped to drill through the floor and let the water go into the gravel under the slab. Some will get absorbed and if you got a large flow the sump pump will kick in.

 

[JeffBoyRD]

I too have been looking at laundry tubs for the basement, whilst I am finishing it. However, I will be draining directly into my sump hole with a pump at this point. Two sinks that I have seen: 1 at Ace Hardware for like $25. Seemed like a good deal. However, faucets aren't cheap. Lowe's has a utility sink, plumbing pieces, and a faucet with removable handle/head for I think $88.

 

[turbonegro]

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I never had a problem with mine. I got everything from lowes.

 

[stephenrsaiz]

Like Turbonegro, I have the same set-up and it works fine once its installed. No issues.

 

[JDL]

I too have been looking at laundry tubs for the basement, whilst I am finishing it. However, I will be draining directly into my sump hole with a pump at this point. Two sinks that I have seen: 1 at Ace Hardware for like $25. Seemed like a good deal. However, faucets aren't cheap. Lowe's has a utility sink, plumbing pieces, and a faucet with removable handle/head for I think $88.

yeah sadly my sump hole is across the basement so i need a way to move the water from the fish room to the sump hole. I dont think i need a faucet as the only water coming into the room will be from my RO water, the unit is located where the sump hole is.

what is the name/brand/model of the drain pump? That looks exactly like what i need and you seem to shoot the water to the ceiling then off to the right which is what i plan on doing... except i have to overcome a drywalled ceiling first.

 

[JeffBoyRD]

As long as you install your PVC with a good pitch, all you need to do is have a pump that can go the height, not the distance.

Question for Steve and Turbo, do you guys have your ejector pump, plumbed into your sewer line? If so, I was wondering about Turbo's vent pipe. It looks like it just vents into the basement. Does it have an air admittance valve on it?

Ace has the Drainosaur for $220:http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2151114

Home depot looks like they have a Flotec model similar to Turbo's/Steve's for $220 as well:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhw/R-100066810/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

[JeffBoyRD]

Here's a link to just the $27 utility sink at ACE:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3830042&kw=utility+sink&origkw=utility+sink&searchId=42285048403

 

[turbonegro]

JDL I'll have to look and see what model it is.

Jeff, That is an old picture. I use to have it drain into my laundry sink in the other room. I have since hooked it up to the main sewer line and added a air admittance valve to it.

 

[JeffBoyRD]

Thanks for the info, Turbo. I hope I didn't sound like the Plumbing Police.

 

[guitar8222]

We sell the drainasaur for $190. You should be able to find one cheaper than $220. Liberty also makes two nice compact units, a 404 and 405. One is 1/3 hp the other is 1/2 hp. They have a larger basin, so you can dump a little more water in them than the drainasour.

Also I would put a check valve on the discharge close to the pump so the pump doesn't cycle on you. If you are going to vent into the basement you should put a studor vent on the pump.

Turbo on a side note (not just because of code) but if that pipe is open, I wouldn't suggest keeping the vent pipe open like that because all of the bacteria and such goes right into the air and with the ro water that close it will quickly foul your ro water.

 

[JeffBoyRD]

Thanks guitar. Excellent point on the vent pipe. Where can you find the liberty units? Also, whereabouts are you in Jersey. I grew up in SJ near Elmer.

 

[guitar8222]

I am in cherry Hill. I just checked with liberty and I guess the closest distributor is in Baltimore or Timonium Md. That is kind of weird since liberty is a well known pump company. I would call the plumbing supply houses and see if they could get one for you. They shouldn't have a problem doing that. If you can't find one (or if their prices are unreasonable: >$200 for a 404 and >$300 for the 405) we always have a few of both models in stock. My parents live in york, so it wouldn't be a problem bringing one out there or shipping it.

 

[stephenrsaiz]

Turbo on a side note (not just because of code) but if that pipe is open, I wouldn't suggest keeping the vent pipe open like that because all of the bacteria and such goes right into the air and with the ro water that close it will quickly foul your ro water.

TurboNegro's set-up has been like that since I have known him (maybe three years or so). If you ever see his corals, I think you'll agree his RO water is not fouled. Or, if it is, perhaps he has a very nice bacteria-driven system.

:dance:

 

[guitar8222]

I am sure it is fine since the water container is sealed with a lid. Deionized water though will pull particles from the air and can develop phosphate and other issues. I had a link to an article about this if I can find it.

I found this out the hard way as I had a small air hole in my container and my water started smelling really bad. I tested it with the tds meter and it was up to 20 and out of my unit was 0.

I just figured it was better not to chance it since the autovents are only $10 at the most, so it isn't something that is a big deal. They are basically just a check valve. That only lets the air go one way.