Starting over... Need some advice...

SpacedCowboy

New member
So... I have been away in the UK for the last 6 months or so, winding up my family's affairs over there. The "house-sitters" who were supposed to be looking after the tank (and everything else, but that's not relevant here...), well, basically didn't. I get back to more of a swamp than a tank, the only alive things being a snail here or there, and possibly a crab or two. Livid didn't begin to describe how I reacted... Just what I didn't need...

[breathe] ... [breathe] ...

Ok, so every setback being an opportunity and all that, I started to think... I have basically 2 options. Start over with the existing tank, or upgrade :beer: - we did talk about the third option (call it a day), but wife-mine was keen to keep the tank ("it's one of the first things I noticed when we met" ... aaaah :) )

At the same time (since I'm starting over), there may be scope to stop using the second bathroom as a fish-room. At the moment, there's a sump, a fresh-water tank, and a refugium in there, but I could move the water-tanks to the other end of the house (we're space-challenged) and connect with plumbing/pumps, and make a combined sump/refugium under the existing tank...

Option 1) Just keep everything as-is. The problem here is that the tank I have is not my ideal tank - it's a 180-tall (72x18x31) non-starphire-glass tank, so it's too narrow, too tall, and isn't the best glass. Just adding a sump that would fit into the existing stand would be by far the easiest option though, and all my equipment would work for this setup, so the outlay there would be lower.

Option 2) Upgrade to a 240-long (96x24x25). This would actually give me more space in the living room (I'd make access be from the front, so we could eliminate the 18" behind the existing tank, thus gain about a foot of living room). It's a far better shape, and I could order starphire-glass.

One option that occurred to me would be to re-purpose the existing display tank as a sump tank. I'd obviously have to block off the (drilled-in-base) overflow holes. What's the best way to do that ? It does worry me slightly, having a tank that's designed to drain water out of it's base as a sump tank, because once it's in there, the only way that sump would be coming out would be in pieces.

Another concern is the weight of the larger tank. At the moment, I reckon the floor is supporting about 2100 lbs. If I use the glass tank as a sump, and add a 240-long, the sump ought to be about 1300 lbs (because it's not full) and the display-tank would be ~3200 lbs for a total of ~4500 lbs.

At the moment, the 180 tank is just supported by the floor joists, but the house is getting on for 60 years of age, and there's no way I'd want to try and support 4500 lbs on just the joists, even if it is perpendicular to the joists (it would cross 4 of them, IIRC). So, what's the best way to add support to the joists ? Do we just sister them (could be tough getting beams down into the crawlspace), or do we need to lay foundations and jack up the existing joists ? Or both ?

Finally, the stand. I was thinking of building the stand out of 80/20 extruded aluminium. That way I can guarantee absolute 90-degree angles (my woodwork isn't that perfect), and I can customise the stand to support both sump (with any plumbing requirements) and if necessary, I can even build the frame *around* the tank. The metal construction ought to give me more access to the tank - I was thinking of skinning it with plywood/wood-mouldings that attach magnetically for easy access, and making it about 3' tall. The tank is next to the "dining room" part of the living room, so the tank being eye-height when sitting down would be ideal.

If I do build the frame out of metal, what's the best way to support a glass tank - I've read conflicting reports of people saying everything from "nothing between the tank and support" to "you must place a piece of styrofoam between tank and support"...

Thanks for reading this far

Simon
 
sorry to hear about your loss. house sitter suck!~!!
the only advice i can offer is to remember that if you put a sump under your display and inclose the whole thing that you will be creating a heat issue and may need a chiller $$$$$.

as far as closing off the holes in your curren display and making it a sump, why not just silicone in a piece of glass. you will be doing some silicone to put in the partitions anyway.....

good luck :)
 
I personally like option 2 and using existing tank as a sump....My sump in my project is an old 210 gallon reef tank and I removed the existing overflows so I have the same holes. You can silicon a piece of glass over these but on my sump it is about 10" above the floor and I just put bulkheads in all holes and connected the 2 holes on each end together with a ball valve and screw in plug in case I ever need to drain the sump.

As far as bracing there are some pretty smart people on this site and maybe they will chime in but if it was myself I would pour some foundations ( I am not sure exact term) in ground under tank location. Maybe use a piece of steel I beam and some screw jacks to support the load. I have a few friends locally and that is how they supported their tanks above. They ran the beam across all joists and then used the screw jacks with no problems.

Don't know about the metal stand but you might be able to top the stand with a plywood and maybe you would not need foam or use both.

Hope all turns out well for you!
 
Well, to be fair, I haven't actually mentioned option #2 to the wife yet :) Much as I'd like to upgrade, it's going to be a tough sell. Just bought a car, and laid a new driveway, so that's a cool $50k that's disappeared... I'll have to find a *very* good moment to suggest we splash out on a tank upgrade right now as well :)

Thanks for the reminder of the heat issue with enclosed sumps - with the luxury of the "fish room" cum bathroom, I'd forgotten about that.

Using the tank as a sump is looking a bit unlikely as well - it's 31" high, which seriously restricts access to inside of it when I want the stand to be 36" high... Either a taller stand (which I don't really want) or a different sump, [sigh].

Simon
 
Progress.

Progress.

Ok, so, wonder of wonders, thunderbirds are go! We're going for a new 240G display, and a new 65G sump, in a stand that I'll be making.

Had a guy come around this morning to give a quote on adding some structural support to this old house, and have ordered the tank, the sump, the new skimmer, the non-live sand, and the return pumps.

Sent off the sump-design to the manufacturer today. I based it around Melev's 'F' sump tank...

sump.png


The basic idea is that:
  • water flows down via the inverted baffle (stuffed with live-rock rubble) into the left-hand area (where the skimmer is). The skimmer is a Warner Marine K2, and wants to be in 6-8" of water, so the baffles are set at that height.
  • water then flows into the return-area where two mag-7's will pump water back up to the tank. They're only 4.5" square, so 2 ought to fit easily in a 10" by 16" space.
  • On the right, the water flows down via the inverted baffle into the refugium area, where the baffle-height to the return-area is set at 14". There'll be a ball-valve above this, so I can direct a lower flow into the refugium, and pipe the rest over into the skimmer area.
Two mag-7's ought to produce ~800gph at the head-height I'm setting it up with, which is fine for me, for a sump. I'll produce the rest of the flow in-tank with Hydor koralias.

To reduce costs, there's going to be a whole boatload of DIY going on here
  • I plan to light the system with LEDs - I have modular approach that lets me snap the high-power LEDs onto extruded Aluminium bars, and I "designed" (it's trivial :) the CAT4101 driver that is popular on the LED threads in the DIY forum.
  • I've got a gorgeous graphical aquarium controller in-development, which I plan to put to use on the new system. It uses a 7" graphical touch-screen, it's completely modular (want another probe, controller, or digital input ? Sure, just daisy-chain a new module). Programming it is a visual drag-and-drop experience (think iPhone) and it's fully networked, has a built-in web-server etc. I plan to have my own system control the koralias and LEDs as well, and there's a whole bunch of probes I'm planning on building/adding :)
  • Last but not least (actually, probably first :) ), I'll be building the stand to integrate with that end of the house, and building in a couple of bookshelves on either side, since the tank will be 8'x2'x2' and taking up most of the width of the house - the idea is to make it look "made-to-measure" and part of the furniture. It will encompass the tank, and the two adjacent walls (the room is only 10'6" wide, so an 8' tank really dominates things :) )

The tank is scheduled to arrive in Thanksgiving week - where I work, when we have a good year, they give us that entire week off rather than the two days, so I'll have 9 days to get my act together :) We also have a long Xmas break (the company shuts down over Xmas / New Year) so I'll have 19 days then to make some progress :)

It's all looking great, until the VISA bill comes in... [grin]

Simon
 
So, things proceeding slowly (as ever, in this hobby), but surely...

wood.png


The wood for the stand was delivered today ... It was only $25 for delivery, and I'd have had difficulty fitting it into my convertible :) It's amazing what you can get into a car-with-no-top, but 8' lengths of wood are beyond the pale :)

Some of the wood is significantly heavier than other pieces of the same length - I'm assuming that's water-weight since it seems not-really-damp, but not-really dry to the touch. My woodworking skills are pretty non-existent (this is to be a learning experience :) but I seem to recall you ought to let the wood dry out before using fresh timber. So it's in the garage for a week or so...

The skimmer also arrived...

skimmer.png


... it's a Warner-marine K2 cone skimmer. The day I bought it, I was told they're no longer in production... Great! Oh well, hopefully it'll be useful for a long period of time.

I've also had 210 lbs of sand arrive - the non-live kind. I got CaribSea Aragamax Oolitic Select, in 30lb bags. This will form the base-sand, and I'll get another 200 lbs of live-sand to go on top when I'm ready. That ought to supply about 4" of depth in the 8' x 2' x 2' tank :)

I've had the floor reinforced from underneath, adding 3 concrete-bases/pillars, and sistering across the 8x4 beam directly under where the tank will sit. It's up against the wall, so there ought to be two sets of support now - that tank isn't going anywhere, which is just as well, because just the wood for the stand weighs a ton!

Simon
 
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