Stray Voltage in my TANK... OUCH!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8356009#post8356009 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by salt e
lets start here...WHAT IS GFCI !

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter. Sure you have seen them, it is the kind of outlet with the two buttons (test and Reset) typical in most newer bathrooms and kitchen. Most seen in hotel rooms :) )

The major difference between a breaker and a GFCI is that while the breaker will need 15 or 10 Amperes to cut the power and protect the wires, the GFCI protects you. It is designed to trip when the current from the wires shorts to ground. like when you touch the aquarium and get shocked. The current goes from the device to the water, to you to ground.
The interrupter needs only aroun 5 thousands of an Ampere (miliampreres) and trips in thousands of a second, basically to protect the person not the wires.

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/gfci
General_Leviton_GFCI.jpg
 
jdieck:

Is there a specific setup that you would recommend for people who are "technically challenged" or rely on simple
"plug and play" gadgets?
 
I would recomend using extension cords with GFCIs like the ones used by contractors so no need to mess with wall outlet installation. Use two and split your equipment between the two so if one trips not the whole tank goes off.
After having GFCI, using a probe will be optional. GFCI + Probe protects you better. GFCI and no probe, may be safer for the critters if you travel a lot or are out of home for long periods of time.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8358033#post8358033 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefguy714
where can you get these extension cords with GFCI?

edit: okay found some on the net.

Can you post what you found?
 
i found this on the net: will be cheaper than getting the adapter or extension cord.

"I was dissatisfied with the options both home depot and lowes could bring to the table in the power protection realm, so I set out to do it myself. neither the depot nor lowes carried a true GFCI multistrip or extension cord, depot did have a $40 multistrip that had a grounding fault indicator (whatever good that does). so, I went over to the electrical parts asile and began picking parts...I bought two leviton almond colored gfci without pilot light for $7.50 ea (pilot light cost an extra $4), and two almond colored regular outlets (forget how much, but cheap). In the next aisle that had plastic wall boxes (gang boxes maybe?) ... I bought two plastic dual boxes for $0.75 ea and two dual faceplates (cheap also). Going home, I dug out two 6ft shielded IEC computer power cords, and cut the iec end off, and stripped back the shielding and wires. The gang boxes came with nice 'spring' strain-relief slots that I pushed the cord through (don't push too much through, it's really hard to pull back out). After studying the diagrams and reading the instructions (very important!), I wired the cord into the "LINE" section of the gfci, then using some 16 gauge wire I had laying around, I wired the second outlet to the "LOAD" section of the gfci (be sure to connect all the grounds together!)... After screwing the outlets into their box, and attaching the faceplate, I tested it out with a desk lamp, first plugged into the gfci ... pushing test
immediately turned off the lamp, and pushing reset brought it back on ...testing the second outlet also resulted the same. Now all my fish equipment is protected by gfci, and $20 for two setups! I
have two multistrips plugged into the each of the 'top' outlets, and the bottom outlets are for big timers. I imagine if one wanted to, they could buy one of those commercial size gang boxes that has room for eight light switches in it, and with one gfci and seven regular outlets, you could eliminate the need for multistrips all together, just remember not to load it too heavily, my gfci claims 15a at 120v, but I wouldn't want to test that... If you were going to run 100's of watts of MH lights, might want to talk to an electrician.
If you do decide to try this yourself, please be very careful, and read + understand the instructions that come with the gfci, otherwise it could end up being useless or even dangerous. Also 120vac can give you a really nasty poke, and if you're grounded really well, it might even be lethal, so make sure you choose a gang box and faceplate that seal completely, so there is no chance fingers could find there way to a live wire."

Any suggestion on this?
 
i will probably get some electrician to install GFCI outlets where my tank is. this will probably be easier.

i'm going to home depot and picking up the wall outlet and read the instructions, if it seems simple enough i will try it. i have installed wall outlets before, so we'll just see.
 
Installing GFCI's is no big deal provided your house electrical is not screwed up. You wire them like any other wall socket. The ones I installed recently when I built my bathroom even pass through to protect multiple outlets.

Thinking about this in detail, Fry's sells long power strips (I have a 6ft one) that use normal household twin receptacles. You could probably open it up and replace the first receptacle with a GFI, provided they are wired in series. I expect a hole would need to be cut to make room for the fault buttons, but that would only take a few minutes with dremel.

Just a thought . . .
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8356317#post8356317 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdieck
General_Leviton_GFCI.jpg

By the way jdieck I have this already installed. Would this be all I need or do I also need a titanium ground probe?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8358565#post8358565 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SuperNerd
By the way jdieck I have this already installed. Would this be all I need or do I also need a titanium ground probe?
If you already have those and you test them regularly then you are OK. The addition of a grounding probe is a lil more safety as the GFCI will trip as soon as there is a faul. It will not wait for you to get your hands in there but if you travel or stay away from a long time do not use the probe as it may trip and your system will be without power until you return.

For GFCI I have tried different brands and I would recmmend the Leviton as one of the bestTry the 20 Amp one, is a bit less prone to false tripping and can take more load than the 15 Amp one.
http://www.levitonproducts.com/cata...ci&utm_content=Specialty&utm_campaign=Leviton
 
GOOD NEWS on the lights i currently have over the tank... I pulled the one that was causing an issue apart and fixed the wire that was not grounded DIY works again!... now i have lights again so no need worry about the corals... now i am trying to learn about this GFCI stuff so i can make some changes in home... i think reefguy714 has the best idea so far and replace the outlet itself... better then a power strip it seems...
 
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