Sump is too tall, poorly designed

[ToddBell]

Long story short after my 20 gal long sump cracked I was in a bind and all I coul get my hands on was a EShopps RS-300 sump. It is definately overkill in size and is rated for tanks 200-300 gallons. My tank is 40 gallons. The sump sits 16 inches tall and makes it nearly impossible to do any work on the pumps, sumps and socks since the the stand is 30" tall. It also only features two compartments.

I'm considering taking this sump out and putting a new one in but that is impossible to take out without cutting open the side of the stand or taking out the center brace. I'm concerned that taking out the center brace to get the sump in and out will cause structure issues and the stand won't be able to hold the weight of the tank during the change. Have any of you had to take a sump out while the tank is up and running?

 

[tatuaje08]

I build stands (and sumps), so I can tell you that if the stand was properly made with plywood, you can safely cut out that center part. It is mainly there for the doors. It should not be load-bearing at all.

To answer your question..... Yes, I have done that with the tank up and running.

And this is why I hate short tank stands!

 

[tatuaje08]

If I were you, I'd cut that sump down with a table saw and weld in another divider to make it a 3 chamber.

 

[SKAREEF]

Do you plan on selling the sump?

 

[ToddBell]

That's kind o what I was thinking about doing. I like the design of the ADH acrylic sumps. I wish I could find out if that center brace was actually load bearing or not.

 

[ToddBell]

Do you plan on selling the sump?

Possibly. I'm on the fence about it right now. I'd like to have more space under the take for an ATO setup, phosban and possible calc. If that happens if need to drop down the size of the sump considerably but I do like having the extra water volume.

 

[tatuaje08]

That's kind o what I was thinking about doing. I like the design of the ADH acrylic sumps. I wish I could find out if that center brace was actually load bearing or not.

I can't vouch for other people's work, but I'd say you're ok to cut it. If the front piece of plywood is one solid piece and there are no weird design flaws, then it won't be load-bearing.

 

[dream54ing]

I can't vouch for other people's work, but I'd say you're ok to cut it. If the front piece of plywood is one solid piece and there are no weird design flaws, then it won't be load-bearing.

on a smaller aquarium like a 40gal, its probably okay, but larger aquariums, I'd say no. There are some structural bearing...

todd, when you come over I can show you (if you have doubts) how to safely remove that center brace. too difficult to explain typing

I also have a 20long tank that you can easily convert as a sump. maybe trade/cash. I also have a ato setup and phosphate reactor as well

We can talk more when you come over today.

 

[DaddyMav]

I would actually suggest taking out the side of the stand if it is made with bracing around the corners. When I built my current stand, I specifically make the ends to be able to be opened and I've used that feature more times than I can count. From running wires across the back of my sump to my surge protectors to getting my wrasse that went into the overflow to the uncovered sump and jumped out.

That being said, I have a 3 chamber 10 gallon sump that's just taking up space right now if you would like to try that as a replacement.

 

[ToddBell]

Thanks everyone for the responses. The stand is a basic stand so its all ply wood. The center brace is just held in 3 or 4 brad nails. I should be able to just knock it out. If anything I figured I can reinforce the corners prior to pulling the sump out.