Sump - my design & construction

[mkarston]

So, I have completed designing and constructing the 29 gal sump for the 65 gal reef tank I’m setting up. Overall, I can say I am very happy with the way it came out. Total it only cost me $75 to build between the 29 gal tank itself, and the 5 pieces of ¼ in glass I used for the partitions, and setup exactly the way I wanted it.

So, what do you guys think? Two things in particular I have concerns about are:

1. The trickle over the bio-balls, as you can see from the pictures, I’ve built a “T” that has several ½ in holes drilled underneath it to drip over a small about of bio-balls (192 in3 = .83 Gal of bio-ball volume). The thing is that it is directly resting on top of the filter media, and I think I would like to raise it up an inch or two so it doesn’t splash as much.
2. The second thing is the return line from the Mag-5 pump back into the tank. I don’t think it is getting that great of water turn-over, maybe 250 gph. I am wondering if the 90 degree angle that is before the ball-valve is hindering its flow?

The photos are in my gallery, thanks for providing your feedback.

Craig

 

[thesaent14]

pic please

 

[Rogger Castells]

Craig, Nice sump, this are my observations;
*The outlet for the refuge is lacking two essentials, one is a gate or ball valve to be able to regulate the flow, the other is some kind of spray bar design like you have on the trickle side, this will prevent micro-bubles and string the sand bed as well as a more even flow throughout the refuge.
*The other item you may want to consider is a check valve on your pump conection,
*IMO the gap of the baffles you place next to the pump are to high, they should be closer to the bottom of the tank, this will greatly reduce microbubbles.

Hope this help, Rogger

 

[thesaent14]

lol sorry i di't reed the last part nice sump

 

[mkarston]

Thanks for your comments. As far as the miro-bubbles, is it a problem to have some in the fuge itself? The baffles do seem to be doing there job, for there are none at all in the return camber? The ball valve is something I have considered and it would very easy for me to add; right now it seems that my ratio is about 2/3 flow over the bio-balls / skimmer, and 1/3 into the fuge, which is what my goal is (I'm useing a reducing bushing right before the clear hose drain into the fuge to accomplish this).

As far as the spay bar, yeah... I wasn't sure about how to allow the flow into the fuge without pushing air into the water and making bubbles. I can consider something else for I haven't glued that piece. My other concern with that is splashing. If I use a spray bar, I'm afraid the water would splash everywhere if I have it above water, and If I had it below water, it would make just as many bubbles as it does now.

Also, this may be a stupid question, but micro-bubbles are tiny bubbles that you can see right? You're not talking so small where you can't see them? Becuase if this is the case, then like I said I don't see any bubbles at all in my return area and I should be all set.

 

[Rogger Castells]

yes, mb make your water almost milky, they are harmless. The issue with splitting the drain in the Refuge is that it is impossible to get rid of the bubbles completely.

 

[mkarston]

I've also uploaded a picture of the sump's design diagram.

 

[mkarston]

I've also uploaded a picture of the sump's design diagram.

 

[nyvp]

why wouldnt you have both overflows going same side then skimmer then refuge then back to tank. wouldnt that give you a better chance for more water to be cleaned?

 

[mkarston]

The problem with that is that there is no way for the have a different water level in the skimmer chamber then that of the fuge. The water level of the skimmer chamber would have to be greater then or equal to that of the fuge; this would make the water level in the skimmer chamber to high for the sumbersible skimmer I plan to use.