Super quick LED question. Continuity?

Jeff000

Electrician
I have the solderless rapid led chips. And all but one string is working like it should.
Now, the way I see it is that I should read continuity between the (+) and (-) pads. But I don't. This is on chips that are working even.
If I touch a battery to these pads I get nothing, even on chips I know are working.

So how do I test these out to see why the string isn't working?

IMG_20140503_175601 by Jeko Media, on Flickr
 
I have the solderless rapid led chips. And all but one string is working like it should.
Now, the way I see it is that I should read continuity between the (+) and (-) pads. But I don't. This is on chips that are working even.
If I touch a battery to these pads I get nothing, even on chips I know are working.

So how do I test these out to see why the string isn't working?

IMG_20140503_175601 by Jeko Media, on Flickr
generally speaking you need 3V .. You can use a lithium button battery but not a AA alkaline ect...well at least not 1
DMM sometimes work on the ohms setting as a 3v source.. oddly enough..

you won't see "continuity" till it's V(f) is met..
 
RapidLED very often has given me a "tester" which is basically a place for a couple of AAA batteries and a red and black wire, which is useful for testing.
 
generally speaking you need 3V .. You can use a lithium button battery but not a AA alkaline ect...well at least not 1
DMM sometimes work on the ohms setting as a 3v source.. oddly enough..

you won't see "continuity" till it's V(f) is met..

Ah yes, this makes sense. I should have known that. I really need to touch up on my DC items.


RapidLED very often has given me a "tester" which is basically a place for a couple of AAA batteries and a red and black wire, which is useful for testing.

Yes, was using that, but touching those pads with it doesn't seem to help.

I did manage to find the bad LED though, so it's not working :)

Mental note, thermal adhisive is a capital B to remove.
 
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