Support drain pipes, BA/knockoff Ghost overflow
- Thread starter dukduk
- Start date
EvenFurther
New member
Its acrylic.
I have the same box. When empty, I plan to place 2 pieces of wood between the box bottom and stand, (floating under the box). My stand is deeper, and has direct surface area under the box.
I have the same box. When empty, I plan to place 2 pieces of wood between the box bottom and stand, (floating under the box). My stand is deeper, and has direct surface area under the box.
Gorgok
New member
I wouldn't worry about the 'weight', but would support the plumbing to keep them from acting like levers against the box. I use these Super Mounting Clamps mounted to the stand with spacers (a piece of wood) to keep the pipes dead center under the bulkheads.
thejuggernaut
Member
This:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_301689-3359...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
This:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_301968-3414..._product_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=2&facetInfo=
and this:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_45479-53911...currentURL=?Ntt=3%2F8+threaded+rod&facetInfo=
Mount the bracket using wood screws, then clamp on to the pipe and measure for the threaded bolt. Use a hacksaw to cut the threaded rod to size. Put a nut on the rod before cutting. That way when you are done you can unscrew the bolt and it will straighten back out the jagged threads from the hack saw. The good part is you can fine tune it a little by running the thread by half turns. You will have a little less that 1/4" of adjustment. So you do have to be pretty precise when you cut the threaded rod.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_301689-3359...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
This:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_301968-3414..._product_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=2&facetInfo=
and this:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_45479-53911...currentURL=?Ntt=3%2F8+threaded+rod&facetInfo=
Mount the bracket using wood screws, then clamp on to the pipe and measure for the threaded bolt. Use a hacksaw to cut the threaded rod to size. Put a nut on the rod before cutting. That way when you are done you can unscrew the bolt and it will straighten back out the jagged threads from the hack saw. The good part is you can fine tune it a little by running the thread by half turns. You will have a little less that 1/4" of adjustment. So you do have to be pretty precise when you cut the threaded rod.
Fury165
New member
I use split ring hangers from Lowes, you can see it in my build thread starting at post #2 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2494838
thejuggernaut
Member
Is this the mount that you used. It looks like it would be allot easier to use than the one I had. Because the screw goes all the way through, you don't have to get it as close when you cut it. Although, if you drilled a hole in the wood larger than the thread, it could protrude back into the board using the mount I did before.
Your build is awesome BTW. I love the t-slot stand.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_301814-3414..._product_qty_sales_dollar|1&page=3&facetInfo=
Fury165
New member
That's the one, they gave me more flexibility in the placement of the hangers along the Aluminum profile. I did use the other one as well, If you look at the water change hose to the left you will see I used the flat one.
Glad you like the build :beer:
ebay, modular marine is the seller.
I have one of those overflows also and highly recommend them. When the one on Ebay wasn't exactly what I needed I spoke to Brian at Modular Marine and he made one that was sized for my tank. :thumbsup:
EvenFurther
New member
I had the same scenario. I waited for MM, and it was worth it. BOA building an obsession in Houston TX might quote it for you. They do top notch custom reef accessory acrylic work. But, you'll have to be patient thru the quote/order process.
EvenFurther
New member
At the time I bought mine RS did not sell the overflow.
