T5's instead of MH

huskerreef

New member
I've been tossing around the idea of switching out my halides on the 620 for T5's. The idea behind it is more flexability in color. I assume there will also be an energy savings. My first thoughts are 6- 48" six bulb fixtures. Whats everyones thoughts on this idea?
 
How long is the 620? You are going to be going from 1200 watts of MH to 324 watts of T5. Is that going to be sufficient?

I think T5 would be a better choice on the 240. That would look slick in your cabinet, and a lot cooler operation. You could probably cut back the fan in the cabinet, making it a ton quieter, too.
 
if he has 6 - 6 bulb units it would be close to 2000 watts.
in my opinion(which isn't much considering the amount of experience we have in the area) t5's would be awsome with the right bulbs.
 
Oh... Duh.:rolleyes: I read it as only having 6 bulbs TOTAL. 6 six bulb fixtures would work well. Man, I'm such a moron sometimes.:rolleye1:
 
My first thoughts are, thats a LOT of bulbs to change out each year (36 x $25 = @%$#^&*!). Are you unhappy with your halides, Jim?
 
I agree. The T5s might create more heat issues too, in addition to the extra lamp replacement and power usage costs.

Which lamps are you running now on your MHs? Any specific coloration changes you are shooting for?
 
36 bulbs x $$ = $$$, good point jason. Its not that I am unhappy with the MH, I just like the colors I've seen on some t5 set ups. The initial expense on the t5's would be pretty hefty as well. Maybe some t5's at start up to mimic sunrise/sunset may be an option as well. Running Hamilton 14k MH.
 
36 bulbs x $$ = $$$, good point jason. Its not that I am unhappy with the MH, I just like the colors I've seen on some t5 set ups. The initial expense on the t5's would be pretty hefty as well. Maybe some t5's at start up to mimic sunrise/sunset may be an option as well. Running Hamilton 14k MH.
That's why I was curious what kind of coloration changes you were wanting to see. If you are just looking to do a simple dusk/dawn effect for aesthetics, then you could get away with adding a few T5 lamps. I'm not sure how many lamps it would take. 4? 6? 8? I guess it depends on how intense you want the "actinic" portion to be and if you're wanting a slightly blue color (assuming they'll be Blue+ and run w/ the MHs).

It doesn't get you the dusk/dawn effect, but it might be worth considering the Radiums or those AquaMaxx lamps too. Not sure what your "blue preference" is.
 
I'd second what Alan says. Also, since you mentioned phosphate issues in your cyano thread, getting those under control might help out your coloration, too, depending on how high they are right now.
 
I am torn on the blue color, I like the way colors pop under a 20k bulb but its to blue for me personally, I've tried 12 and 14k and so far 14k is about as close as I come to liking. I have yet to find giesmann bulbs i think there 12k or 14k is supposed to be pretty nice but can't seem to find them to try.
 
Jeremys T5 Lumen Bright Mogul Base Pendant combo worked really nice. He was able to raise the lights off of the surface quite a bit which helped with heat. He messed around with a lot of bulb combos I am at a loss for what he ended up with.
 
Jim, 6x 6 bulb fixtures would be WAY more light, 62% more wattage actually AND t5ho puts out more PAR per watt than does MH. 4 x 6 bulb units would be similar wattage, and you would STILL get more PAR and better control over the exact color of the tank. Your real energy savings would be by running the chiller less I would guess. I would actually imagine that after the inital cost of the setup, if you were able to sell off the 400s you would see the savings from the chiller over a year period. I let my lamps go for 18 months often times BTW, but I also admit there is a noticable difference when I swap them out.

On a related note, the burn marks from your bulbs- the one on my hand is totally gone and the one on my arm is hardly noticable anymore. :thumbsup:
Yet another bonus of t5s!
 
On a related note, the burn marks from your bulbs- the one on my hand is totally gone and the one on my arm is hardly noticable anymore.

Wow! The burn mark on my arm is fading, too. Jim, your lighting has some kind of sinister ways. Actually, maybe it's just the guy (or guys) who burned himself that is the problem!?!:strange:
 
Jim, 6x 6 bulb fixtures would be WAY more light, 62% more wattage actually AND t5ho puts out more PAR per watt than does MH. 4 x 6 bulb units would be similar wattage, and you would STILL get more PAR and better control over the exact color of the tank. Your real energy savings would be by running the chiller less I would guess. I would actually imagine that after the inital cost of the setup, if you were able to sell off the 400s you would see the savings from the chiller over a year period. I let my lamps go for 18 months often times BTW, but I also admit there is a noticable difference when I swap them out.

On a related note, the burn marks from your bulbs- the one on my hand is totally gone and the one on my arm is hardly noticable anymore. :thumbsup:
Yet another bonus of t5s!
The way I approached it was that the tank is pretty comparable to four 150g tanks stacked next to each other. A standard 120g would have six overdriven T5s (or maybe 8 normally driven), so maybe do something like 7 overdriven for the extra depth on the 150g (or 9 normally driven?). I figure you'd benefit from some of the light spreading onto the other "quadrants" since they're all next to each other, but at the same time that little extra may be needed for the additional depth over 24". That would mean roughly 28 overdriven lamps (2240w) or maybe 36 normally driven lamps like originally mentioned (1944w). It did seem odd to have such a big difference in wattage, especially with so many usual benefits from the T5s. However, the "normal" MH recommendation (one unit per 2'x2' and 400w on >24" depth) would mean eight MHs on that tank and 3200w! (or maybe the 1000w like Jason said). Comparing the "normal" MH vs T5 setup would show way more benefit for the T5s, but if three 400 watters is doing the job then it's pretty hard to beat. The heat transfer and increased tank temp w/ halides is a good point though. Wonder how much it would change the temp on that setup.

What were the dimensions on the upstairs display?
 
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