Tank and Coral issues

G

greenhead

New member
Whilst speaking to some fellow SPS addicts tonight at the meeting/swap setup I seemed to hear a lot about some tank issues that are effecting all of us. So afterwards I came home and did quite a bit of research. What I found is that in well water there are much higher amounts of copper. And I know we all use RODI units but according to Randy Holmes Farley there are different types of copper. This got me thinking. Especially since I started really noticing these issues since I removed the last poly filter I had. I also notice I get the most amount of coral irritation right after I feed. According to what I read there are different types of copper and they always exist in our tanks at very low levels. But in times of drought when using well water you can see a big spike in this organic binding toxic variety of copper.

At first I thought no way but after reading a little more and finding out one of the major signs of this issue is cyano bacteria. It loves copper. So since I have been having these issues I have been battling cyano bacteria. All the while removing it is actually hurting me. Since the cyano is eating the copper. Although I would probably remove it anyway just to get the trapped copper out of my system. I also noticed that water changes made it worse.

I'll try and post links to info tomorrow. But for now what is recommended is to run Poly Filter (the brand not type) and cuprasorb to get levels below .25 ppb.

Hope this works
 
Sam, I had a sediment issue and algae bloom back in early February when Roseville switched from getting their water source from the Folsom Lake to well water effective January 27th 2014. Had only a few corals stn which I fragged and saved. At the same time it was winter and we had one day of freezing temperature. My Ro/di unit had always been kept outside and for that one freezing day my rodi froze and cracked the sediment filter stage. I was able to buy 3 used rodi cartridges so I added additional carbon pre filter stages. Then I believe funman1 sold the air water ice typhoon III sometime during the spring and I immediately purchased it. I then combined the typhoon III unit that I was using with the one I bought from funman1. My rodi works as follows: 5micron sediment filter > brs lignite carbon > brs catalytic carbon > 5micron carbon block > 1micron carbon block > then the line splits into 2 that feeds two 75gpd ro membrane > then merges back to 1 line > brs di > brs di then to my rodi reservoir in the backyard. Here is the picture.



It goes from right to left. The last 2 cartridges are just spare. I rarely use the booster pump. You see, ever since the change in well water the city added a lot of chloramines in the water. Yes there were heavy metals but after a month or so, it normalized and chloramines would be the one causing issues. I have not had any issue with water quality since I changed my rodi setup. The 2 last di stages also made it safer. My tds is always 0.

Regards,
Glenn
 
So I just called Sacramento Water district. They have said that we are not on well water and nothing has changed. I looked at the water quality reports and they do not show anything new. I am really wondering now it has to do more with environmental variables within the area. Not sure more to follow.
 
greenhead said:
Anyone here ever experience water issues like this and been able to overcome it?
Click to expand...

I was having significant amounts of cyano on my sandbed to the point that i couldnt see it anymore. I've been battling this issue for at least 6 months. Just a month ago I found a thread here on RC to dose microbe-Lift special blend for 5 weeks. I'm on my 4th week and it has significantly decrease my cyano issue about 75%. I've also had my salinity at 30 ppt and have been slowly increasing it back up to 35ppt which seems to have also helped my tank fight my cyano issues.
 
Funny you say that. Last time I had Strange issues a bottle of special blend really helped. It stunk the house up but seemed to kick start natural bacteria.
 
I live about 5 minutes from Hugo and I'm not having any issues. Like Hugo suggested, other environmental issues?

I'd assume you all have air conditioned homes that have been cool and likely closed up for the summer, air issue?

Have any of you changed your water change habits due to drought?

Sam when we talked you mentioned you notice flare ups when you change water. Where are you mixing the makeup water? In the garage? Any open chemicals, fumes?

Not undercutting your issue guys just trying to provide food for thought. I'd be interested in sending a sample too. Maybe it could help as a control sample and it was a Copps recommendation to do when things are good.

Good luck fellas, let me know if I can help.:fish1:
 
I am just across Madison from Sam and having all the same issues. Burnt tips, slime coming from my acroporas. A red planet colony I have had for several years has lost all polyps extension and is turning tan. Certainly haven't made any change in my water change /top off schedule this year. I did turn off the ozone when this first started guessing that was the issue. The acroporas look just like they do when ozone levels are too high.

Red and brown slime growing on rocks and sand as well as on all the burnt acro tips. Complete loss of a garf bonsai colony I have had for almost two years. Not sure what the deal is. Going to try chloroamine filters next just in case.
 
I used to live in Natomas and the sacramento water had over 119 tds and chloramines galore. I knew when to change the rodi filter when I had more algae growing after the water change. The regular 5micron carbon block and 1micron carbon block is not enough. It gets exhausted quickly and let chloramines bypass with 0 tds water. Using catalytic carbon with the 5micron and 1micron carbon block does the trick but I end up exhausing the catalytic carbon quick. I added another cartridge that I put brs lignite small particle carbon, the same carbon I use in a reactor for my reef tank. All the water uses up the cheap carbon before the catalytic carbon gets it turn filtering. The remaining 2 carbon blocks finishes the job. I know it sounds excessive but 4 carbon stages work just fine and saves me the hassle.
 
psykobowler said:
I used to live in Natomas and the sacramento water had over 119 tds and chloramines galore. I knew when to change the rodi filter when I had more algae growing after the water change. The regular 5micron carbon block and 1micron carbon block is not enough. It gets exhausted quickly and let chloramines bypass with 0 tds water. Using catalytic carbon with the 5micron and 1micron carbon block does the trick but I end up exhausing the catalytic carbon quick. I added another cartridge that I put brs lignite small particle carbon, the same carbon I use in a reactor for my reef tank. All the water uses up the cheap carbon before the catalytic carbon gets it turn filtering. The remaining 2 carbon blocks finishes the job. I know it sounds excessive but 4 carbon stages work just fine and saves me the hassle.
Click to expand...

Guess I am increasing from 6 stages to at least 7 maybe 8
 
I have been having problems as well with Cyano. and burnt tips on my acros. My parameters are in check. So I believe is was do to the All in One Bio pellets that I just put on line about 3 weeks ago, and also contributing factor has been the change of spectrum in my lighting. I have let the AIO BP run its course and also turned the reds off my leds and only running 4 bulbs of my T5's instead of 8 and raised the fixture up to 14 inches from 10 inches, The past 7 days. The red slime has started to recede and starting to look a lot better. I will post again in the next week or so to update.
 
psykobowler said:
I used to live in Natomas and the sacramento water had over 119 tds and chloramines galore. I knew when to change the rodi filter when I had more algae growing after the water change. The regular 5micron carbon block and 1micron carbon block is not enough. It gets exhausted quickly and let chloramines bypass with 0 tds water. Using catalytic carbon with the 5micron and 1micron carbon block does the trick but I end up exhausing the catalytic carbon quick. I added another cartridge that I put brs lignite small particle carbon, the same carbon I use in a reactor for my reef tank. All the water uses up the cheap carbon before the catalytic carbon gets it turn filtering. The remaining 2 carbon blocks finishes the job. I know it sounds excessive but 4 carbon stages work just fine and saves me the hassle.
Click to expand...

I wish our water came in at 119 TDS. Since we moved to the other side of Davis and now get our water supply from the University instead of the city our TDS went from around 500 to on a good day mid 300's. Good thing is from what I have heard they dont add much in regards to chloramines it is all minerals and a little bit of nuclear material which helps the coral fluoresce. :lolspin: Still better than my brothers water in the city of Salinas. It ranges from high 700's to low 900's I am pretty sure it is over the recommended FDA limits.
 
I went to UC Davis for my undergrad in the early 90s. Water was hard and rough. Maybe that is why the dirty hippies didn't bathe as much especially during earth day. Yes, there were a lot of nuclear going on back then as well.
 
Well I did a phosphate test on my RODI water, right out of the system. I changed Carbon block, membrane and my sediment filter 3 weeks ago, also changed my DI resin 3 days ago. And here is what I get...

<a href="http://s576.photobucket.com/user/booman_13/media/Phosphate/Phosphate.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/ss202/booman_13/Phosphate/Phosphate.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Phosphate.jpg"/></a>
 
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