Tank Stand Control Panel

[kenman345]

Hello everyone,

First off, I am looking for your help. I would really appreciate anyone giving me advice or helping me find the right equipment for this small project of mine.

The basic idea:
My tank is in my bedroom, I use an aquarium controller and have some neat configurations, but want to centralize all the items that belong on the outside of my tank stand. Since the stand is in my bedroom, light bleed is an issue, so I will need to have a panel that has a flip cover or something like that.

Details:
- I have "MARINELAND® 56 Gallon Column Aquarium Ensemble" tank/stand combination. It has about a 1" lip from the main body of the stand to the edge of the lip from the countertop
- I use a Reefkeeper Elite, so I was wanting to house a "RD-1" module in this panel, which is a secondary display component for this controller
- I use button switches to activate the use of items like my automatic feeder or a security alarm on my tank stand door.

Wishlist:
- Elegant/blending in panel that has some sort of cover mechanism so that I do not have excess light in my bedroom at night
- Plenty of room for 2-4 1.25cm round buttons
-- Maybe introduce some indicator lights to be able to tell at a simple glance which buttons are activated
- Room for the "RD-1" module from Digital Aquatics
- Preferable color is black, since that is what my tank stand is.

UPDATE:
Something to note, I do not think I would need more than a 4"x4"x1" box, it just needs to have a cover that blocks out the light.

Also, I expect that a lot of the wiring for my button switches will need to be located elsewhere, so do not worry about finding something overly large just to accommodate excess wires. I will work with whatever has the space for the key items. If the unit also can be modified to house the wiring, that would just be icing on the cake for me. I expect this project to be a bit DIY in terms of wiring everything, probably doing some modifications to get the wires into the box, and even potentially making a panel cutout so that I completely hide the wires and only have the buttons and RD-1 visible when you lift open the panel cover.

 

[kenman345]

Apparently, I cannot modify my original post anymore, so here is some other ideas/options for this project.

I was thinking that instead of the control panel being on the outside, if I were able to find the right parts to do a small slide out drawer that I can face everything upwards on and have on the top part of the inside of my tank stand, that also would make it fairly easy to get to and make the changes I would want to do.

The drawer would only need to be about 6" wide or so for it to be the right size. only have 6" depth though, since I do have a light in the way, but that could be moved in necessary.

I think overall, I am trying to find the right parts so that I can go ahead and have the convenience I want while not sacrificing the looks of the overall tank and tank. I have done many home projects but this is a bit of a smaller project that goes beyond my normal know-how to source the right parts.

 

[kenman345]

Found and ordered a small black box. It's a "Romanoff Micro Box", it's actually exactly the size i thought would be best. It's supposedly measures 4"x4"x1" When it comes in on Thursday I will see how well it fits into the decor of the stand.

Assuming that item ill be perfect, I will need to figure out how I will get the indicator light working. Anyone have any ideas? I basically want one of those small Red or Blue LED lights to turn on if the button is closed or open. I can use spare channels on my aquarium controller, but that is kind of wasteful/expensive real estate. I may need to figure something else out instead.

Maybe something I can put in between the connectors for the switch and the input wires for the switch input on the Reefkeeper module. I am using waterproof connectors which are modular, so it wouldn't be totally out of the question/difficult to put a new element between that wire connection

 

[kenman345]

Well, I figured out that they sell panels for things like this, just not this exact use case. I am going to be investigating custom panel companies about the cost involved in doing something nice with etched words to mark out the labels of everything.

I am still hoping the box I ordered will be useful. I want it to still perform as was originally intended, but offer me flexibility. I am going to try and find toggle switches that will fit inside even after wiring them. I have been informed that I can turn the backlight completely off on the RD-1 and the main head unit of the reefkeeper, so that's going to allow me to be able to make the RD-1 stick out of the box area if I cut out a hole for it and then I would only open the box to get access to the switches.

 

[aaronpentz]

Your local trophy store should be able to help you with the panel. Most have an engraving machine that will do this for you pretty easily

 

[lafayettereefer]

You must have a quiet return pump to be able to have a tank in your bedroom

 

[kenman345]

You must have a quiet return pump to be able to have a tank in your bedroom

I dont have a sump, so it's not loud at all. It's a FOWLR tank, only have 5 small fish in it, so not a huge deal to not have that extra water volume. The reefkeeper definitely helps me maintain this low amount of water volume though so I do not have to worry too much about it.

I got in the box today. Super small. I am very excited about it. I ordered the RD-1 unit. If i cut out a square in this box to allow me to see the screen, i do not think i will make it too big as it does have an indicator light for it being connected to the system. I will definitely want to block out that light, but maybe I'll come up for something depending on how bad that light is. If it's anything like the LED lights on the other modules, it will be quite annoying to have that piercing my bedroom at night. Thankfully it's to the side of the screen though so it will easily be ignored.

I am going to test fit the box on my tank tonight. I will hopefully have the perfect platform to work from.

Anyone have advice on cutting plastic and making it look properly done? I've cut plastic items before and getting a hole and expanding it to size is usually not that pretty. maybe I need to use a drill to make holes at each corner I need and then a razor to cut between them. Then maybe I use sandpaper to get rid of the rough edges. Not sure how fine sand paper i will need to get plastic looking nice, but I am sure to find out unless anyone has some recommendations for me.

I am going to also test fit the different switches I currently own and have avaialble. Whichever I find fits will have to be the one I go with for this project. I will need the RD-1 module in my hands to figure out if/how much I need to lift the module from the bottom of the box when I mount it, and how much room I may have for hiding the wires inside the box.

I am very excited for this little project. I figure if I can get 6+ switches in this panel, I will be set for a long time to come with options. I know I want 5 switches for some ideas I already have fairly laid out. Right now I do not even know if I own any switch that would work for me. I may change the idea a bit and cut a strip out of the box to ensure that if the panel is closed, that we have a default configuration that the switch needs to be in for normal expected functionality. When the switches do not line up, someone (likely myself) was/is doing something on the tank. Not entirely sure how that would look with things sticking out though. I will keep everyone posted on my decisions on this.

 

[Redman88]

this is the control box i built, still need to build the controller raspberry pi or adurino

 

[Redman88]

one more from before it was connected up.

 

[lafayettereefer]

Oh I didn't even realize it was a fowlr tank.

 

[kenman345]

one more from before it was connected up.

Yea, I saw those pics before from you. I like what you did. Did you try other materials first before going with metal for the board? Any suggestions on how to cut out the proper sized shape for the switches?

I am thinking about heading to Michaels crafts stores and getting an exacto knife and some foam board to use to at least mock up a template. Then I was thinking of figuring out the best material for me to use to accurately cut everything out with my stencil i mocked up, unless I am able to directly use the stencil.

I do not think the box I got yesterday will fit everything, but it might still be nice to use in this project if i can cut away at the top cover for it and make my own front portion that sticks out a little. The box might be useful for hiding the wiring and if I mount the front panel on the top cover of the box, then that means that I can open the box if I need to rewire things, but never need to open it any other time.


Anyone have any ideas on how i might make it so that i have the box laying flat against the side of my stand, but i might be able to lift the bottom and it come out, kind of like the little displays on some printers these days? I am starting to looking into hinges for this, it would be useful to have viewing options, like when i am working on the tank, it's readily seen.

 

[Redman88]

The box is plastic. Used a drimal to cut out the holes for the switches and outlets. Though the plastic is a bit thick for the outlets. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AAU5D6Q

 

[kenman345]

Current Panel design. I think I will go with this one, just need to find something I can get thin lines with to outline the switches, as well as label them.

I need to pick up some 26 AWG or 30 AWG wire and connect all the switches up before installing this on my tank stand.

I also need to make a hole in the proper location to route the wires from inside the control panel to inside my tank. That might cause some delays, need to find my power drill to try and get a clean cut, or I will have to get a drimal.

Only thing missing is I originally wanted to have one or two momentary switches, but all the ones I found were too big for this plastic box I am using.

Something I am considering with so many switches is that I might want to connect some together. like, have one switch in between the lead from another switch, but not sure exactly how i wanted to use that. I want to figure out how I am getting it all to be mounted and everything, then I can consider how I am going to use the switches before mounting.

 

[kenman345]

Okay, so I wired things up with some 30 AWG wire. Need to test all the wires have a clean connection, but they all seem fine right now.

14 Wires in total

Twisted each pair for easy reference when wiring everything up in the near future

Test fitting for the panel box. Everything seems perfect.

Next stage is simple, WAIT!!!!

Yes, my next step is to wait. I have a new SW5 coming in the mail today with the rest of the adapter cables I should need for this project. Also, tomorrow I should receive 10 feet of 1/8" cable sleeve that I will use to cover up the blue wires in one easy to manage cable-like form. I have never used cable sleeve before, but have been given some advice from a friend that uses it all the time.

At this point in time, I am very excited about this project. Each pairing has about 2'3" to 2'8", down from it's original ~3' length that I cut each wire at originally. I havent figured out if I will wire these switches directly to the adapter wire, or use 2 switch boards with 8 connections each (and have a spare 2 connections). I wanted to use a waterproof connector, but the ones I have are meant for a much thicker wire. I do not think I really want to add a huge amount of heat shrink to each wire to get them to the 14-16 AWG size the connectors I have are meant for.

 

[kenman345]

My apologies for the double post.

I forgot to ask if anyone reading this thread was able to comment on what they might suggest for the cover for this panel. It has a very small magnetic cover that has branding from a company that makes softare that I customize at my job. I rather not have that showing as the front part of the panel when it's closed. I was thinking maybe more carbon fiber vinyl on the cover if I find nothing else, but I feel like that wouldn't work as nicely on a curved plastic cover.

I used some cut up pieces of double sides adhesive foam board that came with my Jebao WP10's and rimmed the sides of the box with the stuff to eventually hold the panel in place with plenty of room for the wires. Thats what you see on the side of that box when I show the wires coming through it. It may not be that clear to see though. I plan to use a little model magic when I finalize everything to get the gaps filled in and looking nice. So hopefully, things will at minimum looked blacked out, which will help the look. I hope I come up with something appropriate for the cover though, maybe I decide to make my own, but the plastic cover is attached and I do not think I have the space or means to make a better cover, but just to skin it somehow with something.

I look forward to any recommendations

 

[kenman345]

Got the cable sleeve yesterday, managed to braid the 7 twisted pairs and then fit them into it.

This is the way it looks when viewing the front

I also added some black model magic to the box to make sure the areas I don't have adhesive to hold the panel in place doesnt look horrible. I think it came out quite nice so far.

So the next part is going to be a pain, I think I am going to save it for the weekend. I need to strip these wires, then I am going to test them. once tested and all set, i am going to finalize this build with attaching the panel somewhat permanently and connecting switches as I program each one.

I should also note that I plan to label by number the twisted pairs while I am testing them. I want to be able to know which switch I am working with when I eventually make use of the spare switches. Right now I am only planning to hook up what is immediately needed, any switch I haven't found a use for, will remain disconnected from the system for now.

Thinking about using some electrical take to add thickness to the 30 AWG wire tips and use the waterproof connectors I have. If I do this, it will make wiring the switches that are unused really simple when that time comes.

EDIT: I think I am going to try a thin white sharpie on the carbon fiber i have spare and see how well it stays, might use that for labeling

 

[dson78]

You guys are geniuses....i am always amazed by something new and ingenious when i visit the DIY forum. Great job guys.

 

[kenman345]

You guys are geniuses....i am always amazed by something new and ingenious when i visit the DIY forum. Great job guys.

I appreciate the admiration. I am by no means as good as some of the guys around here, but I am really proud of what this is turning into so far.

EDIT: Still could use some advice on the top part of this box. it's plastic and hideous with a logo I really dont need on the outside of my tank.

 

[kenman345]

First off, I am looking for your help. I would really appreciate anyone giving me advice or helping me find the right equipment for this small project of mine.

Image doesnt work. If this is not about a panel, just start your own thread and ask for help.

Or send a PM to me, I can offer advice if it's within my realm of knowledge, but you are likely to get better results from posting actual pictures andstarting your own thread

 

[kenman345]

Finally installed it and the SW5 module to my setup. Haven't done any cool programming yet, just labelled the ports in the software for which switch gets used on that port. This way I might program some things during my lunch break at work.

This is how it looks on my tank

This is how it looks with the cover opened and the switches all set to "Closed". When they line up with the horizontal line, they are considered "Open" or off

Still need to figure out the whole front part of it though. Was thinking maybe some stickers? I don't want it to look cheap, but I have no idea right now. I covered it with marker on the logo, and I added some model magic black stuff to the covers rim so I do not need to be too precise with whatever I come up with.