tank temp.

80. With heaters, it only ever drops to about 79. It sometimes hits 83-84 during the summer with lights, but only until I catch it and turn the lights off.
 
When I finially realized that one of those digital themometers was only like 12 bucks I bought one. and I was nicely surprised to see my take stay steady at 77.
 
90 is way too high brad! Fatal for short periods let alone long durations.

Someone at the swap was laughing at me when I stated that anything above 83.9 is too high for an acro dominated tank, but then again they have had some crashes in the past. Not sure, but I would say it was related!

I am curious to see what Tim says when he posts in this thread, I know he probably has tenure over most of us in the club as far as experience. There are very few who have been around as long as him! Not that he is old, just wiser like a jedi master!

thanks,

Rick
 
I keep my heater set at 77 but the tank stays between 80 and 82. I guess the powerheads and pump heat the water too.
 
hey ricky, did you read to the bottom? lol
about 2 yearsago i wen on vacation the the person watching the house turned of the a/c and the tank hit close 90 and i lost alot of hearty stuff i had other then that not over 82 without a/c on.
and this is coming from the same guy that said there car is running and it's 100 degrees in there so they can keep there frags warm lol.
 
power heads and pump produce heat as well as lighting don't forget. I just wanted to post this comment by Randy Holmes Farley

Temperature
Temperature impacts reef aquarium inhabitants in a variety of ways. First and foremost, the animals' metabolic rates rise as temperature rises. They may consequently use more oxygen, carbon dioxide, nutrients, calcium and alkalinity at higher temperatures. This higher metabolic rate can also increase both their growth rate and waste production at higher temperatures.
Another important impact of temperature is on the chemical aspects of the aquarium. The solubility of dissolved gases such as oxygen and carbon dioxide, for example, changes with temperature. Oxygen, in particular, can be a concern because it is less soluble at higher temperature.
So what does this imply for aquarists?
In most instances, trying to match the natural environment in a reef aquarium is a worthy goal. Temperature may, however, be a parameter that requires accounting for the practical considerations of a small closed system. Looking to the ocean as a guide for setting temperatures in reef aquaria may present complications, because corals grow in such a wide range of temperatures. Nevertheless, Ron Shimek has shown in a previous article that the greatest variety of corals are found in water whose average temperature is about 83-86° F.
Reef aquaria do, however, have limitations that may make their optimal temperature somewhat lower. During normal functioning of a reef aquarium, the oxygen level and the metabolic rate of the aquarium inhabitants are not often important issues. During a crisis such as a power failure, however, the dissolved oxygen can be rapidly used up. Lower temperatures not only allow a higher oxygen level before an emergency, but will also slow the consumption of that oxygen by slowing the metabolism of the aquarium's inhabitants. The production of ammonia as organisms begin to die may also be slower at lower temperatures. For reasons such as this, one may choose to strike a practical balance between temperatures that are too high (even if corals normally thrive in the ocean at those temperatures), and those that are too low. Although average reef temperatures in maximal diversity areas (i.e. coral triangle centered Indonesia,) these areas are also often subject to significant mixing. In fact, the cooler reefs, ( i..e. open Pacific reefs) are often more stable at lower temperatures due to oceanic exchange but are less tolerant to bleaching and other temperature related perturbations.
All things considered, those natural guidelines leave a fairly wide range of acceptable temperatures. I keep my aquarium at about 80-81° F year-round. I am actually more inclined to keep the aquarium cooler in the summer, when a power failure would most likely warm the aquarium, and higher in winter, when a power failure would most likely cool it.
All things considered, I recommend temperatures in the range of 76-83° F unless there is a very clear reason to keep it outside that range.
 
Yes Brad I did read to the bottom. I was kidding about the 100 degrees, it was only 200 but where the frags were was only about 75 degrees, that car has climate control so its all good! Not only that, all my stuff made it safe and sound without any losses!

thanks,

Rick
 
I have three different thermometers that are giving three different readings right now, so I have to say my tank is anywhere from 78 to 86 degrees. Ha ha. If I go with the old fashioned glass floater, it's 80.
 
Mary, change the batteries in the one thats reading really off and see if that helps! Although the floaters are good they are not really accurate when compared to the digital ones. I would be willing to bet the one that is near the floater is accurate and the one thats way off needs batteries or is malfunctioning.

Thanks,

Rick
 
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