Tank Temperature

jkhudson

New member
My tank is running at about 82 degrees. Is this too warm? I'm having trouble with some yellow polyps and sps wasting away. Water parameters are good, no nitrates or nitrites calc. about 400 salinity 1.025 alkalinity normal, phosphates barely registering.
 
The test I used doesn't give a no. on the alk. it just gives a color range and it falls in the "normal" catagory. The temperature will range from about 80 in the morning (my MH is on by the time I get up on my days off) to maybe 84 in the evening. I cut the halide off at 5:00 and just run my pc's until about 9:00. I have been thinking of changing my lighting schedule to 9-4 for my halide and 8-6 or 7 for my pc's. Whaddya think?
 
it is the temperature swing that is having the negative effect. I also think that 82 is borderline high.

If it were 76 to 80 swings that may be ok, but 80-84 is likely to cause issues.

P.
 
i would also think a good alk test kit is in order(salifert ) what is "normal"?
a 4 degree temp swing is pretty large IMO can you add fans to your canopy that come on with the halides?

charlie
 
I have fans and the top of the canopy is open as well. I'm adding another 250w bulb as soon as the parts arrive. The redesign will allow for more airflow since my ballast is currently in the way and I'll be moving the old one and placing the new behind the canopy. I really REALLY want to avoid a chiller so any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I agree on the temp swings. If you are wanting to avoid a chiller and cannot get the temp down a little.... You may have to keep your house cooler to help out the fans. Are you running a sump? If so, have a fan blowing across the top. If it is enclosed under the tank, open the doors for more airflow. Whatever is under the tank creating heat, try to relocate if possible.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8279837#post8279837 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by captbunzo
Honestly, I don't think 82 degrees is that much of a concern....

I agree, but if it spikes at 84, then that is pushin' it. I would consider that range harmful. I would also agree on getting a test kit that gives you a number and not an indicator.
 
the problem you have is a cumulative thing. A perfect system can tolerate high temps. However, a slight phosphate load, a slight nitrate load, a slight organic load, too low water flow, too low oxyegen will all add a little stress. Each alone is no problem. However each little part adds up.

I know on my system, if it runs any higher than 82 I see bleaching around coral bases of certain corals. Predominantly acropora nana. As soon as I correct the issue, they recover. If I dont....they slowly lose flesh.

The problem with heat is not the heat itself, its the decrease in the ability of the water to carry oxygen and carbon dioxide. As the temp goes up the amount of dissolved gasses go down. This can be further compounded by a large quantity of live stock.

from your description, sounds like you have a 75g with a single 250W....if you add another you will definitely need a chiller.

I ran two 250s over a 75g. I had no hood and two large fans switching on with the MH. The humidity was outrageous, the tank would lose 3-5g/day and i ran it at 80.

I would seriously consider a chiller. The benefits are enormous.

Also, looking at the corals you have listed, you may well be in danger of cooking the colt with too much light.
 
You might also put a fan on your sump. It makes a 2 to 4 degree difference on my 75g. I run 2-250w halides and temps range from 78-80.
 
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