hey guys, I have a reefkeeper 2.0 that I am using to keep temp in check. I have it allowing a .2 degree swing before turning on fans or heaters. The tank stays within this range but do you think I should drop it back to .1? It will work but the fans kick on twice as often while the lights are on.
Temperature control
- Thread starter Highside
- Start date
crumbletop
New member
Temperature probes do have a small bit of noise, and a fluctuation of .1 degree can occur frequently. I think if you set the threshold to .1 degree you'll end up with the fans cutting on/off for brief periods of time and the same with the heater. If .2 works for you, then I'd stick with it. I think I have my controller set with a .5 degree or .6 degree differential.
Pickupman66
New member
My tnak does about 4 degrees fluct in the summer with no visible ill effect...
imsqueak
Premium Member
Fans=evaporation
Can you use this high evap to your advantage? Or is it a PITA (pain in the arsh) to keep your top off filled or are you creating a humidity issue in your house?
If your tank runs low Ph, or you want to add a multi-mix bottle of stuff at slow pace it could be good if you mix additives to the top off.
I'm adding a multi-mix bottle to my top off and doing less water changes and for the first time since tank set up I'm doing "acceptable". I'm liking it...
If you find your windows in the house turning into waterfalls leading to mold, find another heat solution. I had this when I cooled my tank with fans.
Can you use this high evap to your advantage? Or is it a PITA (pain in the arsh) to keep your top off filled or are you creating a humidity issue in your house?
If your tank runs low Ph, or you want to add a multi-mix bottle of stuff at slow pace it could be good if you mix additives to the top off.
I'm adding a multi-mix bottle to my top off and doing less water changes and for the first time since tank set up I'm doing "acceptable". I'm liking it...
If you find your windows in the house turning into waterfalls leading to mold, find another heat solution. I had this when I cooled my tank with fans.
danieljames
New member
I read an interesting article the other day regarding the fluctuations alot of coral recieve depending on location of collection. It implied to me that some fluctuation in parems might actually be a healthy thing for captive displays. It conditions the coral for fluctuation, and makes for a hardier coral overall. People usually speak of the ocean being such a constant environment. It really depends on what area of the reef the coral was collected from, IE: SPS being completely exposed to air for hours at low tide; some isolated patches that experience evaporation/temp fluctuations at low tide and then are flushed with fresh ocean water at high tide (lagoon type), etc. Knowing where your coral is generally found on what part of the reef is important.
Keep in mind that I am only running PC lighting right now so that may explain why i'm not having a temp problem. My system naturally migrates to about 8.09 at night if I dont drip kalc. then hits about 8.14 during the afternoon. yes, I have quite a bit of evaporation but my next project is going to be a kalc reactor with a dosing pump controlled by the reefkeeper. I think if I set it to keep the ph around 8.2 or a little above my fresh water additions will be minimal. Thanks for the input !
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