Tiny Leak in PVC

malx

Active member
Hi, Everyone.

So I have a tiny tiny leak here in my return line. How do you guys suggest I repair it? I don't want to cut the entire plumbing apart. It's really really tiny, and it's over the sump, so it's not a huge issue.

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I was thinking of taking the pipe off, gluing it from the outside somehow but not sure if that will handle 300gph.

Let me know,
Joey
 
After opening it, I think I can put some PVC Cement in the space that I left through the union and then around again on the outside, and that should hold. Giving it 20 more minutes to dry from the saltwater then going to clean and seal. Let me know if anyone else ha any other ideas.

thanks!
Joey
 
I know it’s not what u want to hear, but u can’t fix it without redoing the joint. U can try doing what u said & it may plug the hole for a while, but it isn’t going to fix it & it will leak again. So it’s up to u if the risk is worth it or not.
 
I know it's not what u want to hear, but u can't fix it without redoing the joint. U can try doing what u said & it may plug the hole for a while, but it isn't going to fix it & it will leak again. So it's up to u if the risk is worth it or not.

Good advice. I tried the first method, to hold me over at least while the tank cycles. I can do-do the plumbing piece in a few weeks.

Thanks,
Joey
 
Somthing u may want to keep in mind is try to keep a little pvc inbetween fittings & not put fittings all the way against another fitting. So try & leave about 1” of pvc inbetween the tee & the valve. That way if u ever have to redo something thing u have enough pvc to cut it & be able to place another fitting. So in your case if u had 1” between the tee & valve & it was the joint on the tee leaking, u could cut it right next to the tee & have enough pvc left to slide into another fitting. So u would only have to replace the tee instead of redoing all of it.

I know space can be a issue but it’s just something to keep in mind when plumbing
 
If it's not fixed yet, it's not a huge deal. If it's well connected and not a pressurized line it'll just have some salt creep thst will fall off occasionally. I've always had that happen in drain and return plumbing. If you're using a pressurized line, like a Venturi skimmer, then it's a problem. A bad one. I've had to clean that up before. 1600 gph skimmer pump blew the non glued line right off, knocked the skimmer over and sprayed about 30 gallons of water on the floor, walls, and stand, soaking electronics and everything. I still have flashbacks of that. Anything remotely pressurized I glue. If it's a passive non-restricted line, not as big of a deal.


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So far its holding up but ill end up redoing the piece. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
Still holding up... let's see how long this lasts [emoji23][emoji23]. Getting some leak detectors tomorrow haha


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Make sure to use enough glue. I'm not saying you didn't, but I see so many builds where people value making it "œpretty" over making a good joint. I've never had a weld leak but I also have purple drips from primer and from glue+primer.
 
Make sure to use enough glue. I'm not saying you didn't, but I see so many builds where people value making it "œpretty" over making a good joint. I've never had a weld leak but I also have purple drips from primer and from glue+primer.

So, when I opened the union, there was clearly a spot that I missed, so I filled that tiny crevice with a PVC cement after cleaning it with PVC cleaner, let it cure for 15m and then filled it again. Then, I cleaned the outside of the join where the Tee met the union, and filled that as well, so the PVC cement goes in from the outside.

It help up all night no issues, but the flow is only 1/2 up. I'm ordering two new unions because that's all I'll need to replace this, I have the rest of the parts, and if it starts to leak again, or when I have time, I'll make a new piece and get it done.
 
Coming from a family member of mine who is a plumber, if you can turn the side of the fitting that has the leak negative (as in water would be drawn into it - for example by opening up that gate valve of yours), you can drop in some primer and then some glue until you close the drip. You need to know where the drip is coming from and tbh, your gonna get glue and primer everywhere.

You can wait it out. Salt creep will almost certainly close it up after a short period but if you can't wait or don't want to take the risk then you need to cut at the T and redo that section.

make SURE you always use primer and glue to both sides of the fitting when welding PVC and ALWAYS make sure after you insert the fitting you turn 45 degrees and hold the joint together anywhere from 45 seconds to 1 min.
 
Coming from a family member of mine who is a plumber, if you can turn the side of the fitting that has the leak negative (as in water would be drawn into it - for example by opening up that gate valve of yours), you can drop in some primer and then some glue until you close the drip. You need to know where the drip is coming from and tbh, your gonna get glue and primer everywhere.

You can wait it out. Salt creep will almost certainly close it up after a short period but if you can't wait or don't want to take the risk then you need to cut at the T and redo that section.

make SURE you always use primer and glue to both sides of the fitting when welding PVC and ALWAYS make sure after you insert the fitting you turn 45 degrees and hold the joint together anywhere from 45 seconds to 1 min.

Thanks for the advice. What you said about 45 degrees I already know, and I didn't do it with this fitting. This one I made a mistake and for some reason I went straight in. It bit me in the butt.

Anyway, I have cemented it in the way you stated so it should hold up! Wish me luck.

Thanks,
Joey
 
Thanks for the advice. What you said about 45 degrees I already know, and I didn't do it with this fitting. This one I made a mistake and for some reason I went straight in. It bit me in the butt.

Anyway, I have cemented it in the way you stated so it should hold up! Wish me luck.

Thanks,
Joey

Let us know how it works out.
 
Funny thing is when I put it in and didn't twist it I realized about 20 seconds later and I was like cursing to myself.

We have all been there. I now even taper each side of the pipe that goes into the fitting and use clamps to hold the joint for 1-2 min. Never had a leak.
 
Update here, so seems like my re-weld idea is holding. I actually upgraded the return pump to one that was stronger and no leaks. Thanks everyone for the tips here!
 
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