Titanium heaters

Other than requiring an external controller, they are a fully submersible heater. If you don't have a controller, many people use Inkbirds but I personally think they are junk (I've had two go wonky). I much prefer the IM Helios Universal controller. You'll have to check the ratings on whatever you choose to make sure they handle 600w. If you are more DIY and want an industrial level controller, then Ranco ETC series or Johnson Controls A421 are excellent choices.
 
Other than requiring an external controller, they are a fully submersible heater. If you don't have a controller, many people use Inkbirds but I personally think they are junk (I've had two go wonky). I much prefer the IM Helios Universal controller. You'll have to check the ratings on whatever you choose to make sure they handle 600w. If you are more DIY and want an industrial level controller, then Ranco ETC series or Johnson Controls A421 are excellent choices.
I have a apex for control. I have been told these will leach metals into the tank
 
I have a apex for control. I have been told these will leach metals into the tank
Titanium is inert and insoluble in salt water so not sure what they mean. If the heater jacket failed and water intruded it, then the same metals that every heater has would potentially get in the water.
 
I haven't use the BRS ones specifically but I have been using Titanium heaters for many years. Biggest thing like mentioned above is to make sure you have a good quality controller. I highly recommend the Ranco and have used a couple of them for over a decade now. I have two with each controlling their own heater for redundancy. I also have each of those Rancos plugged into two different Apex energy bars and use the Apex for even more redundancy with 3 temp probes coming off that. And each of those energy bars are on separate dedicated 20amp AFCI/GFCI circuits for redundancy and to help protect me and the house.
 
Other than requiring an external controller, they are a fully submersible heater. If you don't have a controller, many people use Inkbirds but I personally think they are junk (I've had two go wonky). I much prefer the IM Helios Universal controller. You'll have to check the ratings on whatever you choose to make sure they handle 600w. If you are more DIY and want an industrial level controller, then Ranco ETC series or Johnson Controls A421 are excellent choices.


Same here I have had two ink birds go bad. I just had one go bad after a few days. I had got it very cheap and was a spare that i decided to use for my phyto system in the winter. Garbage.

10.5 F ok..

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I use my Hydros to control heaters on a few tanks but I also use a heat controller with them. This way I have double protection and it saves the outlets on the controller. I have done this with all my controllers over the years because those outlets are not made to turn on and off as much as a heater can depending on where you live. . This saves wear and tear on those outlets.
I use Baylite controllers and just purchase a Inkbrid sensor for them.. Have been cheap and reliable.

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Ranco is the best but not cheap.
 
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Same here I have had two ink birds go bad. I just had one go bad after a few days. I had got it very cheap and was a spare that i decided to use for my phyto system in the winter. Garbage.

10.5 F ok..

View attachment 32393535

I use my Hydros to control heaters on a few tanks but I also use a heat controller with them. This way I have double protection and it saves the outlets on the controller. I have done this with all my controllers over the years because those outlets are not made to turn on and off as much as a heater can depending on where you live. . This saves wear and tear on those outlets.
I use Baylite controllers and just purchase a Inkbrid sensor for them.. Have been cheap and reliable.

View attachment 32393536

Ranco is the best but not cheap.
Yep to all the above. You can see my Inkbird "repair" thread here: :LOL:

How to repair a flaky Inkbird controller
 
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